No Old Carpet For Reference - HELP!

[Bolisk]

Hello all! I'm new to the forum. . .and have heard greate things about this place. I just purchased a 1970 Coupe. The car is 75% restored, like new from the outside. . .runs great. . .but has NO interior in it from the radio down. I have new carpets, jute padding, sound and heat shield, new rear storage comparment doors, new seat belts, and the center consoles components. All of this came with the car. However, I have absolutly no reference to go by as the old carptets are long gone. I'm confident that I can install all these peices back together. . .but I want to do it right. So I have a bunch of questions. Hopefully someone will have the answeres.


1) The heat/sound insulation looks like it's one of Ecklers OLD pre cut kits. I'm not so sure that it's a really good heat and sound barier. . .should I dump it and go with Reflectix's that eveyone is talking about?

2) Either way, where do I put the sound / heat barier? For example. . .do I cover everything? For example, the entire drive train tunnel? If so will the center conoles pieces fit over it? Do I litteraly go arround the shifter, and up as far under the dash as posslbe? Do I glue the heat / sound barier down completely. . .or just tack it on vertical surfaces? Do I put it down in the rear storage comparement (ie. under the trays and under the battery?

3) When the sound barier is in. . .what's next? I have a whole box of pre cut jute padding. . .do I still use that after the heat barrer? If so, I noticed that the actual new carpte has jute padding applied to the back in a few choice locations. . .like where your feet will rest under the pad in the drivers side carpet. So in some locations I would have a doulbe layer of jute padding. . .is that right. . .or should I cut and trim holes in the loose jute padding so that I have one consistant layer? Is the jute padding glues down completely to the heat shield, or just tacked?

4) What do I cut out? Obviously the bolt holes for seats, belts, and trim arround the edges. But there are a few unknown areas. . .for example, does the headlight "brights" switch get covered by all thee layers. ..or do I cut a hole for the switch to protrude though the carpet? Or do I just cover it completely? If it's cut out. . .is there a grommet or somthing that make a nice liner arround the button?

5) In the assembly manual. . .it shows rubber plugs (holder's) that seem to go into holes, three accross the back wall, and three at the top of each foot well in the front. Do I just carpet over them? Or were these rubbber plugs/holder used to hold the carpet in? Is there a special tool to install the rubber plug? I took one out and for the life of me .. .i can't get it back in!!

6) Does anyone have any photos of the steps they used to do this . . . perhaps a photo of how the carpet was done arround the headlight "brights" button in the floor. Any photos would help greatly!! I want to do this right.

7) Lastly, I noticed a one crack in the fiberglass floor board. . .it's on the semi vertical foward wall bellow the pedels. Basically where your heals rest when driving. I figured I should correct this before I start the install. . .any products that anyone recommends for fixing the crack?

I realize this is a TON of stuff to ask . ..but I greatly appreciate your help.

Thanks in advace for ANYONE who has the time to even read this novel!!

Regards,
Bolisk

 

[6880 Mike]

...1) The heat/sound insulation looks like it's one of Ecklers OLD pre cut kits. I'm not so sure that it's a really good heat and sound barier. . .should I dump it and go with Reflectix's that eveyone is talking about?...

Up to you, but what you have will probably work.

2) Either way, where do I put the sound / heat barier? For example. . .do I cover everything? For example, the entire drive train tunnel? If so will the center conoles pieces fit over it? Do I litteraly go arround the shifter, and up as far under the dash as posslbe? Do I glue the heat / sound barier down completely. . .or just tack it on vertical surfaces? Do I put it down in the rear storage comparement (ie. under the trays and under the battery?...

The kit will probably cover almost everything. Trial fit the various pieces, trim where needed, then glue it down. Console and trim should fit without problems.

3) When the sound barier is in. . .what's next? I have a whole box of pre cut jute padding. . .do I still use that after the heat barrer? If so, I noticed that the actual new carpte has jute padding applied to the back in a few choice locations. . .like where your feet will rest under the pad in the drivers side carpet. So in some locations I would have a doulbe layer of jute padding. . .is that right. . .or should I cut and trim holes in the loose jute padding so that I have one consistant layer? Is the jute padding glues down completely to the heat shield, or just tacked?...

Good quality carpet has the jute backing attached. Only one layer of jute is necessary. Heat/sound barrier goes down first; carpet and jute over that.

4) What do I cut out? Obviously the bolt holes for seats, belts, and trim arround the edges. But there are a few unknown areas. . .for example, does the headlight "brights" switch get covered by all thee layers. ..or do I cut a hole for the switch to protrude though the carpet? Or do I just cover it completely? If it's cut out. . .is there a grommet or somthing that make a nice liner arround the button?...

The AIM will help in showing the areas where the jute backing was trimmed from the back of the carpet, the U flaps for the front seat rail feet, area around the tranny hump. etc. If memory serves, the dimmer switch is under the carpet. No cutting required.

5) In the assembly manual. . .it shows rubber plugs (holder's) that seem to go into holes, three accross the back wall, and three at the top of each foot well in the front. Do I just carpet over them? Or were these rubbber plugs/holder used to hold the carpet in? Is there a special tool to install the rubber plug? I took one out and for the life of me .. .i can't get it back in!!...

The plugs hold the carpet in place and should be reinstalled. The aftermarket providers sell replacement plugs if you want to use new. You may have to heat them to make them pliable and ease the installation.

7) Lastly, I noticed a one crack in the fiberglass floor board. . .it's on the semi vertical foward wall bellow the pedels. Basically where your heals rest when driving. I figured I should correct this before I start the install. . .any products that anyone recommends for fixing the crack?...

Correct; make your fiberglass repairs first. You will want regular polyester resin and fiberglass matte for the repairs. The panels on your '70 are not SMC.

All of the various Corvette magazines have done interior replacement How-To articles. You might be able to get your hands on a back issue of Corvette Fever, Vette, or Corvette Enthusiast.

 

[Bolisk]

The kit will probably cover almost everything. Trial fit the various pieces, trim where needed, then glue it down. Console and trim should fit without problems.

Yeah. . .but the kit does not cover up and over the tunnel. So I'm wondering if I should do that. . .it also doesn't appear to cover the area under the storage compartment trays. . .this kit is probably 20 years old. The previous owner was taking a LOOOOONGG time to restore. . .

Good quality carpet has the jute backing attached. Only one layer of jute is necessary. Heat/sound barrier goes down first; carpet and jute over that.

So what are you saying. . .my carpet is crap!?!? It's weired. . .there is jute only under my drivers foot section. So are you saying that the jute padding should be under the entire carpet? For instance. . .on the wheel wells in the rear. . .on the rear deck etc?

The AIM will help in showing the areas where the jute backing was trimmed from the back of the carpet, the U flaps for the front seat rail feet, area around the tranny hump. etc. If memory serves, the dimmer switch is under the carpet. No cutting required.

Ok. . .yeah. . .I noticed that about the jute in some places. Yeah. . .the AIM was not real clear about the foot "brights" switch .. .thanks for that detail.

The plugs hold the carpet in place and should be reinstalled. The aftermarket providers sell replacement plugs if you want to use new. You may have to heat them to make them pliable and ease the installation.

Ok. . .so I do need to pull them out and reinstall them. Hmmm. . .heat them. . .good idea. . .how? In the oven? What temp. . .don't want a big sticky mess. Could i use some spray lube too?

Correct; make your fiberglass repairs first. You will want regular polyester resin and fiberglass matte for the repairs. The panels on your '70 are not SMC.

Ahh. ..sorry. . .what is SMC?

All of the various Corvette magazines have done interior replacement How-To articles. You might be able to get your hands on a back issue of Corvette Fever, Vette, or Corvette Enthusiast.

Yeah . . . I've seen a few. . .but they all leave out the details. I even bought that darn Ecklers Interiour Trim DVD. . .the carpet chapter was an absolute joke!!!! ad They just pulled the seat, belts, and trim sill plate off. . .and then glued in a new carpte. . .nothing about sound/heat shield, no jute padding. . .nothing about triming, nothing about those rubber plugs. . .they only did the pasenger side floor!!! ARGH!!!

Everything else about that DVD was helpfull though. . . I will probably try to transfer my door parts to a new panel.



vvvvv

 

[MikeMc71]

Dude....you need to switch to de-caff...........relax, take your time. This is more art than science.

 

[6880 Mike]

Yeah. . .but the kit does not cover up and over the tunnel. So I'm wondering if I should do that. . .it also doesn't appear to cover the area under the storage compartment trays. . .

Wouldn't hurt to do the tunnel. Some errant fiberglass insulation was installed in this area at St. Louis. You might still find vestiges of it in your car. The same blanket type insulation was used inside the jack and battery compartments on some of the '68s (I found a little in my car.) but may have been discontinued. Not sure the '69 and later cars had it. No big deal. You won't be getting much heat infiltration from these areas. I think the old original was more for sound deadening than for heat. If I had some left over insulation, I would consider doing the two compartments.

...So what are you saying. . .my carpet is crap!?!? ...

Nope, not at all. I'm saying, depending upon the manufacturer, the jute comes attached to the carpet and is not separate.

...are you saying that the jute padding should be under the entire carpet? For instance. . .on the wheel wells in the rear. . .on the rear deck etc?...

Yes. More or less. I found old insulation on my wheel wells and a little on the floor in the rear storage area.

...heat them. . .good idea. . .how? In the oven?...Could i use some spray lube too?...

Microwave or oven on very low temperature. You want them warm and pliable, not burnt. Yep. Spray lube might help. Easy does it, though, or you'll end up with lube on your new carpet.

...what is SMC?...

Sheet Molded Compound. A type of fiberglass. The earlier cars used press molded panels which require polyester resin. Beginning with the rear quarter panels on the 71 models, GM began switching to sheet mold compound. The polyester resins and bonding compounds are not compatible with SMC.

Al Knoch has an interior video. http://www.alknochinteriors.com/catalog.htm You might want to purchase a copy and take a look.

 

[Bolisk]

Thanks for the advice!

 

[SIXFOOTER]

Do a little search on Home Made Lizard Skin. Its a paint on insulation material you can make foe $25 or buy it for $200. Its very good stuff to lay down first. I would then follow with a Dynomat type product, or Nuprene and then the carpet kit. The Lizard skin and nuprene would cover the entire floor including the tunnel and firewall.

 

[Bolisk]

Do a little search on Home Made Lizard Skin. Its a paint on insulation material you can make foe $25 or buy it for $200. Its very good stuff to lay down first. I would then follow with a Dynomat type product, or Nuprene and then the carpet kit. The Lizard skin and nuprene would cover the entire floor including the tunnel and firewall.

I would think that any type of paintable sound / head insulation would add a tremendouse amount of weight to the car. Is this accurate?