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painting motor parts?

Electric fans draw amps, make the alt work harder (you ever have a car whose idle drops a little when the headlights are switched on?) and make the engine work harder - nothing comes "free" in the engine and accessories situtation. I forget now - do you have a Harrison rad in there now?
 
Jack

yep, I know about the extra draw on the alternator and am considering getting mine rebuilt to a larger amperage for the A/C install. I don't think it's too expensive but need to check on the cost.
I don't know what type of radiator I have. It's stamped with the proper number and date code and it has a Harrison sticker on it but no way it's the original and an NCRS judge in my club looked at it a few weeks ago and declared it was definately a repro piece which was no surprise. Could be anything I guess, maybe even a DeWitts for all I know. i'm assuming the Harrison sticker could be acquired and stuck on anything same as the stamped number and date code.
 
"he declared it a repro" because why? It was too new looking? Would have been interested to hear just what he saw that indicated this to him.

If it is stamped with the proper part number and ink stamped with the date and has the Harrison sticker, but looks newer than 40 years old, chances are it is a Dewitts' unit. And I am advised those judge well, but I have no personal first hand experience with that.

anyway, you would seem to be in good shape as far as the rad goes.
 
Jack

This guy in my club is also chairman of the local NCRS chapter so he pretty much seems to know his stuff.
He said it was a nice repro unit but he also said even the best repro units like the DeWitts are easily spotted by a few telltale signs and even showed me what a few of them were. I found it very interesting when he told me that since from reading on here that the DeWitts were supposed to be almost perfect as a restoration radiator (although I'm not sure if mine is a DeWitts or not) but since I'm not concerned about NCRS judging currently I honestly now can't remember most of what he told me about the differences as it didn't concern me too greatly other than just curious interest at the time. One of the differences he pointed out was a verticle "line" that is cast on the top plate of the one in my car but again I can't remember what about that line he said was wrong.
Sorry!
 
You guys are killing me here........

From personal experience, I'll testify that my car, 327/365, with A/C running, on the hottest days (95+) has never gone over 210*. Even on the long trip to Carlisle, caught in stop and go (mostly stop) traffic for an hour. At cruising speed it just barely tipped 180*.

The trick was to keep the cooling system exactly as it was originally engineered. Correct radiator, thermostat, hoses, waterpump, fan clutch, pulleys, as well as ensuring that the ignition map was correct. The only "wrong" part on the car is the fan which is the stock non-A/C 5 blade vs the correct 7 blade (for '64). And I did go for a larger capacity externally regulated Alternator.

A cool (normal) running car can be achieved with the proper parts and maintenance.
 
Paul
that's why I wasn't too concerned about the cooling issues on my car - you had already gone thru and "engineered" everything already for your own car and we basically just going to copy your system over to mine :)
BTW, regarding your 5-blade fan, I don't think adding the 7-blade fan would make too much of a difference anyway since in '67 I believe they reverted back to the 5-blade even on the A/C equiped cars. Hey wait, I'm telling YOU this?? Aren't you the one that told this info to ME??!! ;LOL

Regarding my alternator, mine is I believe the standard stock 37amp model ( a replacement though). When I take it in to have it rebuilt for a larger amerage, would you think 65amps would be enough or should I see if they can take it up to 100 amp?
 
Subfixer said:
You guys are killing me here........

From personal experience, I'll testify that my car, 327/365, with A/C running, on the hottest days (95+) has never gone over 210*. Even on the long trip to Carlisle, caught in stop and go (mostly stop) traffic for an hour. At cruising speed it just barely tipped 180*.

The trick was to keep the cooling system exactly as it was originally engineered. Correct radiator, thermostat, hoses, waterpump, fan clutch, pulleys, as well as ensuring that the ignition map was correct. The only "wrong" part on the car is the fan which is the stock non-A/C 5 blade vs the correct 7 blade (for '64). And I did go for a larger capacity externally regulated Alternator.

A cool (normal) running car can be achieved with the proper parts and maintenance.

ok Paul, don't say I didn't warn you, just trying to confirm that he has good cooling capcaity now, plus get Barry ready for the car running a little hotter than beforehand - have you forgotten Barry's 7 page overheating thread? I think CAC is buying more bandwidth in anticipation . . . . :D
 
now, now, Jack. Be nice.
Besides, my overheating thread turned out to be a false alarm as you know since JohnZ "strongly" suggested to go out and buy an IR temp gun and check the system. As we know, you have to be a bit of a fool not to listen to John's "suggestions" and once again he was right on the mark on this one. Faulty temp sender was my only problem.
Oh sorry, that and Ray's suggestion to check my fan clutch which also turned out to be bad. Replacing the fan clutch didn't seem to make much difference on my temp readings but that's probably only because the temp sender is still reading wrong but at least I know there is a new, correctly operating fan clutch in the system now anyway.
 
Barry, if your alternator is the correctly-dated original and you'd be more comfortable with a higher-rated unit when you add the A/C, any decent alternator shop (or John Pirkle) can convert your 37-amp to a 61-amp in an hour; all they have to do is replace the stator - nobody will ever be able to tell the difference, and you don't have to do anything else to the car - they all used the same regulator.
 
John
my alternator is a replacement and has all the wrong numbers and date codes so originality is one thing I'm not concerned with on that particular piece except for appearance.
I didn't know upgrading it was only replacing the stator. I assumed they had to rewind it completly. That's nice info, thanks! if that's all it is than it shouldn't be too much $$$ to get it done hopefully - even locally.
:beer
 
Barry, I'm running a 135A unit I got on ebay. About $80 if I remember. Plugs right in. I also changed to a solid state external regulator. $9.95 at J.C. Whitney.

Jack, I was just flaming a bit. My point to people in similar situations was to point out that the GM engineers worked long and hard to make all these systems work together. I don't have a degree in thermodynamics, so I defer to their 40 year old engineering wisdom, and it works.

These old cars are not as maintenance free as the cars we all drive now. Nowadays all we have to do is put gas in them and change the oil once in a while. In the old days, tuneups were due every 12K miles, oil changes every 3K miles, valve adjustments, coolant flushes and refills, etc...... As long as I stick to the schedule in my old owner's manual, I doubt I'll have any problems.
 
OK, I was wrong. And when I am wrong, I admit I am wrong.

It was a 9 page thread. ;LOL ;LOL ;LOL

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72718&highlight=IR+gun+hot

And the advice to verify your temp gauge with an IR gun came in posts # 2 (Ray) and 4 (some guy), and then again in post #25 (Mike) and #34 (Mike again) and finally in post #42 (some guy again, who told you to quit posting until you shot the rad hose with an IR gun), no offense to JohnZ, who has saved my butt more times than I can count.

Ray and Mike deserve some credit!
 
Subfixer said:
Barry, I'm running a 135A unit I got on ebay. About $80 if I remember. Plugs right in. I also changed to a solid state external regulator. $9.95 at J.C. Whitney.

Jack, I was just flaming a bit. My point to people in similar situations was to point out that the GM engineers worked long and hard to make all these systems work together. I don't have a degree in thermodynamics, so I defer to their 40 year old engineering wisdom, and it works.

These old cars are not as maintenance free as the cars we all drive now. Nowadays all we have to do is put gas in them and change the oil once in a while. In the old days, tuneups were due every 12K miles, oil changes every 3K miles, valve adjustments, coolant flushes and refills, etc...... As long as I stick to the schedule in my old owner's manual, I doubt I'll have any problems.

Paul, did you just admit to being flaming?

sorry, couldn't resist some more humor, although I think Barry's had it with me!
 
Well, I'm sticking to my story. Big blocks overheat in spite of GM's engineering efforts. I think I read somewhere that the radiator is in an inefficient alignment with poor air flow but I could be wrong. Also, wouldn't any car run hotter if you add A/C? How can it not? As for keeping cool with a small block, never been a problem for me and I've owned plenty of GM small blocks with and without A/C. Barry, I wasn't trying to pee in your Cheerios. I see no reason for you to cancel your plans to install A/C in your small block car. But you can't blame it on Linda anymore cause she's going to be in the Lexus. You'll be driving Baby and she'll be driving, well BABY! LOL! Also, the new aftermarket A/C equipment is far superior than the 40 year old stuff. On really hot days, since Linda will be in the Lexus, I'll just leave my car home and ride with you! I'll bring a blanket. :)
 
9 pages? Holy Cow! Well, the guy does like to type. He has 10X as many posts as I do and I got a year head start on him. Whassup wit dat? :)
 
Jack, I'm NOT going to search thru the old thread as you already did so I'll offer my apologies to Ray and Mike as I'd forgotten if they had also suggested an IR temp gun. But in my defense, I did credit Ray for the fan clutch......... :D

Terry, yep, by next Spring Linda will be spending most of her time in the Lexus with the other baby........ and you are welcome to ride with me anytime you wish. And even Linda and my "adopted" son Fred is welcome also! ;LOL ;LOL ;LOL
As for all my posts......... well, I have a lot of time on my hands and home most of the time and since I have no life what else do I have to do all day? ;LOL
 
This is a strange thread so here goes. Had the oil changed today and my car goes into winter storage in two weeks. I will take pics with autumn leaves on my last drive. Then it's see you in April! Time passes so quickly.
 
Paul
I agree, this thread has changed topics it seems......... ;LOL

Driving season is almost over for me too. Weather won't stop me as soon as you i'm sure but in just a few weeks I'm itching to get started on the winter projects so I think the end of this month at the latest it's time to start tearing into her.....
 
I guess I'm fortunate...or maybe not. Depends on your perspective. I don't have any winter projects planned. The 1967 is almost "there." Little left to do. I guess that means it's time to sell ;) and find a new money pit.

Actually I have one and it will be my home heating account for this winter. Natural gas futures are......scary.
 

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