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Power Steering

76okievette

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2004
Messages
697
Location
oklahoma
Corvette
Early 1976 L-48, 2008 Victory Red
OK, I know we have talked about this a lot already but just want to make sure I have it right. I got all the parts today, thanks to Mike at Classic Corvette Parts, new valve and hoses and rebuilt cylinder. I am going to do the replacement tomorrow or Thursday here is what I believe I need to do:
Jack car
Drain fluid remove old parts (Mike suggested that if the hose's are hard to remove just cut them as to damage any rebuildable parts)
Install new parts but leave cylinder unattached
Fill pump with fluid
With wheels off the ground start car and rotate steering a couple times
Check fluid fill as needed and repeate
Attached cylinder and drop car
Drive, if it pulls at all rejack car and check centering of valve
(Mike says to drive it a little as the valve has grease in it and it make a little bit to work the grease loose)
Adjust valve if needed
Drive it!!!!!!!!!!

Is that about correct????
 
I've been waiting to see if anyone would respond to this post. I need to replace my power steering cylinder. Never done this before. My cylinder is leaking.
 
I am heading out to do it right now. I will let you know its the first time for me also:)
 
Take pictures of how the hoses hook up to the steering control valve, it easy to get these mixed up. I always did my adjustment while I had the car on jack stands. keep clear of everything during start up of car, this is when the steering wheel may turn very fast in one direction, keep hands clear during this time. Use the correct wrenches on the hoses, so you don't round them off.
 
OK, I know we have talked about this a lot already but just want to make sure I have it right. I got all the parts today, thanks to Mike at Classic Corvette Parts, new valve and hoses and rebuilt cylinder. I am going to do the replacement tomorrow or Thursday here is what I believe I need to do:
Jack car
Drain fluid remove old parts (Mike suggested that if the hose's are hard to remove just cut them as to damage any rebuildable parts)
Install new parts but leave cylinder unattached
Fill pump with fluid
With wheels off the ground start car and rotate steering a couple times
Check fluid fill as needed and repeate
Attached cylinder and drop car
Drive, if it pulls at all rejack car and check centering of valve
(Mike says to drive it a little as the valve has grease in it and it make a little bit to work the grease loose)
Adjust valve if needed
Drive it!!!!!!!!!!

Is that about correct????
I just had this done for me last week on my '81 (local Goodyear store where I buy my Eagle GTII tires has an outstanding mechanic). I bought the parts (Eckler's) and had them installed. It sounds about right. Eckler's sent a nice step-by-step instruction with the valve and cylinder (which I neglected to keep...d**n it). Also had them replace the two front stabilizer links (bushings were shot). Can't believe the difference it has made! :)
 
MISSION COMPLETE
Got it done about a hour ago, was not to hard. Had some moments when I was trying to remove the old cylinder and valve I was just using a regular hammer and not getting any place hit on the pickle fork for 45 minutes with nothing. I then went and got me a 4 pound hammer and it took two hits for the cylinder and a little more for the valve. I had to move the valve so that I could get the fork on from the front of the car and when I did that it came right off.
My new valve was centered perfect no leaking and the car steer's strighter and the steering wheel is aligned strighter that it was before.
The one think I would like to know is what is the capacity of the pump???? I could not find that any place. I have put all most a quart of fluid in it, drove it around the block some and will check the fluid again before I drive it to night.
Thanks for all the help to everyone.
 
MISSION COMPLETE
\
The one think I would like to know is what is the capacity of the pump???? I could not find that any place. I have put all most a quart of fluid in it, drove it around the block some and will check the fluid again before I drive it to night.
Thanks for all the help to everyone.
I don't know ....
when I did mine I added fluid very easily,till it was full!!

glad everything worked out for you!!!!
 
MISSION COMPLETE
Got it done about a hour ago, was not to hard. Had some moments when I was trying to remove the old cylinder and valve I was just using a regular hammer and not getting any place hit on the pickle fork for 45 minutes with nothing. I then went and got me a 4 pound hammer and it took two hits for the cylinder and a little more for the valve. I had to move the valve so that I could get the fork on from the front of the car and when I did that it came right off.
My new valve was centered perfect no leaking and the car steer's strighter and the steering wheel is aligned strighter that it was before.
The one think I would like to know is what is the capacity of the pump???? I could not find that any place. I have put all most a quart of fluid in it, drove it around the block some and will check the fluid again before I drive it to night.
Thanks for all the help to everyone.
Don't know the capacity either, since I didn't do it myself. Looked it up in my 68-82 Shop Manual and it describes the procedure in great detail...except it makes absolutely no mention of the quantity of fluid required. In any event, my shop did a great job on it...drives so much better now! :)
 
It took almost a quart to fill the system but I have not checked it again will do that tonight and will have a final quanity. Thanks and mine drives much better also.
 
Thanks Paul,
As mentioned before pay close attention to the hoses from the valve to the slave. They have to criss-cross. And never reach thru the steering wheel when you start it up for the first time.
Mike
 
I just have to replace a leaking cylinder. Can I do this without a fork or any other special tools?
 
I doubt it. The stud is usually quite stuck in the center link. A tie rod fork is almost always needed.
Mike
 
As Mike said you will need some thing to get it apart, mine would never have come loose with out a fork and a BIG hammer. Look at the thread titled "Power Sterring Leak" and you can see a pic of a different type of tie rod end puller that would work also. Good luck
PS my pickle fork cost 10 dollars at AUTO ZONE
 
Sounds like it is very difficult to get the cylinder off. Is it just as hard re-installing?
 
It sounds harder than it is, just have a pickel fork and its not bad at all. If you are only doing the cylinder it will not be to bad. Open the lines slowly so the fluid can drain out in a tub then remove the lines take both nuts off and use the fork to remove the cylinder. Remeber to reinstall the lines in the same holes you removed them and before you hook the shaft back to the frame start the car this way the steering wheel won't go crazy and injure you as you start the car.
It sounds complicated but it's really pretty easy and if you don't have a new cylinder I recommend contacting Mike at Classic Corvettes.
 
Thanks, 76okievette. I will do that. Keep you all posted. I need to purchase the parts first. Do I need new nuts and cotter pins?
 
Yes but they should come with the cylinder.
 

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