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problem NOT solved! HELP

Barry - I don't drink (anymore ;) ) and I won't be at Carlisle but I will be taking some help from Paul (subfixer) in the future - see how we all make deposits and withdrawals? So buy Paul some cool ones for me.

Hope you get your car worked out so you can drive it with confidence to Carlisle. I need to freshen up the oil in my Muncie tonight and hope that solves my emergining problem with my synchros.
 
vigman, autozone is where i got mine temp sender last year and it was a Wells TU5. I seem to remember a 10* difference also - not the 40-50* difference I may be showing now.
 
Jack
no Carlisle for you this year?
damn, was hoping to meet you after all your help this year!
oh well, Paul will have to drink your cold ones :)

have fun on your tranny!
 
More .02

IF your driving ( say over 40 ) this will move WAY more air than the fan clutch/ fan assy will at idle... the fan should pull a good BREEZE.. but not a hurricane.

Cheap test... get a rather large square fan and park it in front of the car ( you know the one you use when the AC in the house poops out).. and with the car NOT RUNNING.. feel how much air FLOWS through the radiator fins. This is about what the fan ( under clutch control ) should pull.

Running them BOTH while the car is idling should be MORE than enough to keep it cool.... then if you turn the electrical fan off and the temp climbs then the clutch is suspect.

Note... this is not an A/C car... right? you can see the front of the radiator.. right? There are NO obstructions in the front.. nor is the radiator clogged with overspray from your new paint job... right?

( ps my crystal ball sez temp sender )

Vig~
 
67 Heaven

:beer

Just lurking for a day or so... heheheheheh

Been busy on other GM products for a while.. but the vette's are getting back in the cross hairs..Rebuild 2 F bodies ( 91 & 92 Camaro's for my sons ).. but DONT TELL... V-6's to boot.
 
vigman said:
:beer

Just lurking for a day or so... heheheheheh

Been busy on other GM products for a while.. but the vette's are getting back in the cross hairs..Rebuild 2 F bodies ( 91 & 92 Camaro's for my sons ).. but DONT TELL... V-6's to boot.

It's good to read your posts again.
 
Thanks guys

Well ...
We could do the reverse and get a pot .. set the resistance values from my other post & see what your gauge reads... I think the laser themometer will agree with the car NOT running that hot.....then it's back to the wiring.. heheheh.( now your in my house )

Vig~
 
Welcome Back

Heh..good to see you posting again Vigman...Hang out a while ...

Have you been on tour.... Or In the Studio.. I should be at AES this year in NY..
Maybe I'll see you their and we can talk shop..

:beer
 
Vig, my game plan is this:
first thing in the AM I go get the IR temp gun and get a reading. May do it while still parked in front of the store. If I'm lucky the only problem is the sender unit is way off and I'll forget the whole thing and be done with it. I don't care if the guage isn't accurate (well, i DO care but for now I'll live with it) as long as I know the difference from the guage reading to actual temp I'll know what my car is doing as i drive and know i'm safe.
If the IR reading only shows a small difference and there the car really is running on the hot side I'll walk back in the store and order my fan clutch and install that. Than i'll see what temps i get. Hopefully one or both of those will solve the mystery.
If it doesn't than I take the car to the junk yard and have it crushed from frustration....... opps, did i say that out loud? Nevermind, I MEANT to say than it's back to square one on the timing stuff again (which has been an ongoing issue since I bought the car).
 
Barry Barry Barry....., Man.... I feel bad for you... It just goes to show that we all can have problems with our Vettes. Hang in there..the boy's on the forum will get you straight and point you to the correct area to locate the problem.

I'm thinken it's a bum read on the gauge...And on the other hand ..give yourself a big Slap on the back for learning and working on your own car. You can't ..I repeat..Can't find better instructors anywhere then on this forum. Alot of us cut our teeth on learning Auto Mechanics by trial and erro and a lot of book learing as well as formal instruction. You got the best right here.

Congrats on your willingness to charge ahead and attack the problem. I'm sure you'll find that it'll be something minor. If not..then it still will be a great story to tell down the road because you will be doing the repair...and next time you will be giving the repair advice based on your experience......

Hang in there..

:beer
 
WHY did you change your temp. sending unit in the fist place?
BarryK said:
vigman, autozone is where i got mine temp sender last year and it was a Wells TU5. I seem to remember a 10* difference also - not the 40-50* difference I may be showing now.
 
Barry -

You are on the right track so far, with the IR gun and all. May I offer another couple of suggestions:

1) Hold a red shop rag in FRONT of the radiator with it running. If the shroud is fitting correctly and the fan is spaced correctly, there should be a gentle pull of the rag towards the radiator. I, too, suspect the fan clutch.

2) Didn't catch what temperature thermostat you are using. I use a 180 degree "high flow". Can get them from Summit Racing and sometimes AutoZone has the good Robert Shaw ones.

3) Suggest 50/50 blend of anti-freeze and 1-2 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter. Some folks have said it doesn't work, but I'm tellin' ya-it works on mine. :)

4) Not sure if someone replied (I breezed through the posts), but you can run a garden hose and spray through the radiator. Use caution-don't bend the fins. Recommend spraying backwards-rear to front.

5) While your there-take a look at the fins. Are there any bent/twisted that are blocking airflow? A dental pick and/or small jeweler's type screwdriver will help. Use a flashlight and cardboard, turn out the garage lights and you'll really be able to tell.

6) Check the radiator cap. If there is a crack in the sealing area (lift up the rubber washer, if applicable)-the system is not developing adequate pressure. Check the pressure rating stamped on the cap itself. I'm thinking it should be 13-15 lbs.

7) Check for a vacuum leak. Take off the air cleaner, start car, place hand over carb opening to somewhat "choke" it. If the idle speed picks up-you have a leak. Spray WD-40 around your carb base, intake manifold, etc. to locate.

I also agree with the other post about checking that lower hose. Good luck to you.

Rick
:w
 
So you guys going to Napa and AutoZone to get a fan clutch for @ $40 - got a part number? I need one, called the Napa and the Zone only to get a "good luck finding that".

Geek
 
Barry,

I read the whole thread and I have nothing to add.....except Carquest if you have them near you has IR guns on sale for $50 in their circular.

Good Luck,

Tom M
 
Mark
I know how great the guys on here are - if not for all of you i'd never attempt to work on the car myself
:)

we will get it figured out :beer
 
I'mAVettehead said:
WHY did you change your temp. sending unit in the fist place?

the last one quit completely. one day the meter just wouldn't give any reading at all over approx 120* even after driving the car for a few hours.
 
RodsnRides said:
Barry -

You are on the right track so far, with the IR gun and all. May I offer another couple of suggestions:

1) Hold a red shop rag in FRONT of the radiator with it running. If the shroud is fitting correctly and the fan is spaced correctly, there should be a gentle pull of the rag towards the radiator. I, too, suspect the fan clutch.

will try it

2) Didn't catch what temperature thermostat you are using. I use a 180 degree "high flow". Can get them from Summit Racing and sometimes AutoZone has the good Robert Shaw ones.

should be a 180*. box doesn't say nor on the unit but that what I told them i wanted. Autozone sold it to me - they didn't have the Robert shaw - I asked for that first

3) Suggest 50/50 blend of anti-freeze and 1-2 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter. Some folks have said it doesn't work, but I'm tellin' ya-it works on mine. :)

4) Not sure if someone replied (I breezed through the posts), but you can run a garden hose and spray through the radiator. Use caution-don't bend the fins. Recommend spraying backwards-rear to front.

will try that tomorrow. Radiator is only approx 1500-2000 miles old though......

5) While your there-take a look at the fins. Are there any bent/twisted that are blocking airflow? A dental pick and/or small jeweler's type screwdriver will help. Use a flashlight and cardboard, turn out the garage lights and you'll really be able to tell.

6) Check the radiator cap. If there is a crack in the sealing area (lift up the rubber washer, if applicable)-the system is not developing adequate pressure. Check the pressure rating stamped on the cap itself. I'm thinking it should be 13-15 lbs.

just went out to check it after reading this - says AC and 13#. rubber looks good. Motor is still somewhat warm after a few hours sitting but i did hear a faint hissing noise like pressure leaking out before i removed it than when i turned it it gave a "POP" sound alomost like opening a new sealed jar. ?????

7) Check for a vacuum leak. Take off the air cleaner, start car, place hand over carb opening to somewhat "choke" it. If the idle speed picks up-you have a leak. Spray WD-40 around your carb base, intake manifold, etc. to locate.

Larry also suggersted this and i picked up a can of starter fluid to do it - haven't done it yet though - plan on it tomorrow

I also agree with the other post about checking that lower hose. Good luck to you.

will do

Rick
:w


Rick, thanks for the suggestions. was easier so i answred up inside the quote above
:)
 
Geek's 65 said:
So you guys going to Napa and AutoZone to get a fan clutch for @ $40 - got a part number? I need one, called the Napa and the Zone only to get a "good luck finding that".

Geek

My nearby NAPA can get me one in a few hours - says it's $46.00. if i need to get it I'll post the part number for you
:)
 
Sting Ray said:
Barry,

I read the whole thread and I have nothing to add.....except Carquest if you have them near you has IR guns on sale for $50 in their circular.

Good Luck,

Tom M

would love to save the $30 but I don't know of a Carquest near me
:(
 

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