Pulling motor

[Ken]

... main bearing problems and i am told you cant repair those with the motor in the car. Is this true?

It wouldn't be easy to do with the block in the car, but it is possible; they used to do it all the time "back in the day."

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

We swap engines in my car almost as often as we change underwear. The clamshell is not that big a deal if you mark it properly and have good help. With that ***** out of the way it is a piece of cake.

All Europeans pull the motor and transmission together; it goes back to the last century and standardized mechanic training.

PS Check out GM crate motors (tall or short blocks), they're more affordable than you might guess, compared to paying for a rebuild

Have a look at Lake Chevrolet. They have GM create engines for less than the price of a set of rings, inserts, gaskets, and the machine work…not to mention the labor!

 

[Vettefan87]

Before pulling the motor, we are going to change the intake manifold gasket, and Flush all the bad crud with fresh oil. My question is what kind of gumapucci should I use with the gaskets, or do I need any at all?


Thanks

 

[rrubel]

Make sure that whatever you use is sensor safe! I've got Permatex Blue, which I'm using with all my gaskets. I also have a big tube of black, meant to be applied with a caulk gun. Was going to use that on the front and rear of the manifold, where it's suggested you NOT use gaskets, but wound up using lots of the blue stuff instead.
[RICHR]

 

[Moonunit 451]

Before pulling the motor, we are going to change the intake manifold gasket, and Flush all the bad crud with fresh oil. My question is what kind of gumapucci should I use with the gaskets, or do I need any at all?


Thanks

For the intake use THE RIGHT STUFF! About a generous 3/8" bead, front and aft. You can buy it at most parts stores, Auto Zone for sure. Most people have excellent luck with this, I did

Sorry Rich Good luck. Don't mess up on this one Vettefan! It's no fun to have to pull all that crap to redo the intake manifold, and many do.

 

[Vettefan87]

I changed oil and the "knock" continues so I guess it will have to be rebuilt. I dont think that me and my brother can pull the motor out of my vette. Does anyone know of a good place that can do it, and if so how much to pull it and put it back in?


Thanks

 

[Edmond]

I changed oil and the "knock" continues so I guess it will have to be rebuilt. I dont think that me and my brother can pull the motor out of my vette. Does anyone know of a good place that can do it, and if so how much to pull it and put it back in?


Thanks

Are you only going to have them pull the motor or have them pull it and rebuild it?

You should call a local shop and get a ballpark price on it. I can say for sure that it won't be cheap. Once they hear "motor work on a Corvette", they're going to get the $$$$ signs in their head.

 

[Vettefan87]

I've gotten an estimate of a 1000 just to pull it and put it back does that sound about right?

 

[rrubel]

You *might* want to consider going the route that I am (New! With HINDSIGHT! ).

Rather than pull the engine, rebuild it, and stick it back in (or pay someone to do the same), if you have garage space then buy a cheap engine stand and build your new one on the stand. Then, when you're done, drive the Vette and take the engine to a shop and pay them to swap them. If you do it right, there shouldn't be too many parts you'd need directly off the old engine if you're doing a performance upgrade. It depends on your budget. And you have the added bonus of still being able to drive the Vette while the new motor is under construction. If I'd planned to do the whole block and such from the start, then I'd still be driving mine right now... and working on the new engine too.
[RICHR]

 

[Edmond]

I've gotten an estimate of a 1000 just to pull it and put it back does that sound about right?

That doesn't sound too bad. I was thinking in the mid 1000's.

What's going to happen to the car after they pull the motor? Are you going to leave it at the shop or tow it home?

 

[Vettefan87]

What's going to happen to the car after they pull the motor? Are you going to leave it at the shop or tow it home?

Im going to have to have it towed home or depending on the shop leave it there, because every shop tells me to take it to Kaley's for the rebuild, and unfortunately they wont pull the motor. I talked to them and they said it would take them about a week to do everything, magnaflux the heads and boil the block, all that good stuff, there price is around 1700.

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

I've gotten an estimate of a 1000 just to pull it and put it back does that sound about right?

Let’s get Moonunit into this. He has done it a time or two.

Pulling the motor in a C4 is no big deal. 4 or 5 hours at most. It is much quicker to pull the complete motor than it is to tear all of the auxiliary parts off first. When we dropped in the 383 the only thing we took off was the AC compressor. Frankie and I swapped the motors after dinner and before breakfast with plenty of time to joke and drink.

If you do not pull the Clamshell you will need a really high lift to clear every thing but it is no big deal.



What is included in the $1700 rebuild? This sounds like a really fair price.

 

[Vettefan87]

My neighbor has a 71 Corvette and i went with him to Mann's Corvette today to pick it up, and i started talking to him and he was telling me right around 900. So since that is right by my house I am just going to take it there. Im going to call Kaleys and get an itemized bill of what they will be doing to my motor. Every shop in this area says they are the best in the area for this kind of price.

 

[rrubel]

I too am curious at what you'll get for $1700. I paid about $1400 + shipping for my short block and its contents, but not all of the parts were new (yes, I knew that going in - they were low-mileage pulls). Those that were, were decent stuff.

Make sure that you get forged pistons (if you get new ones), not cast or hypereutectic. They'll hold up much better if you plan on making serious power, and if you shop brands (like TRW) you can get them for not much more than cast.

[RICHR]

 

[Edmond]

Im going to have to have it towed home or depending on the shop leave it there, because every shop tells me to take it to Kaley's for the rebuild, and unfortunately they wont pull the motor. I talked to them and they said it would take them about a week to do everything, magnaflux the heads and boil the block, all that good stuff, there price is around 1700.

Get everything in writing! Make sure that you know what kind of parts he's using, whether they're new, the brand name, everything... What kind of cam, lifters, rockers, etc...

And if there is a warranty, get it in writing. I'm not saying that you can't trust anyones word, but no one can dispute it when it's in their writing.

 

[Vettefan87]

Ok, for you people who have been following this project here is where I am at. The engine is at the rebuilders and this is what they are going to be doing-Cleaning block magnafluxing the heads, line honing/boring, changing cam bearing, grinding shaft, new pistons. Cleaned cylinder heads. 3 angle valve job, new rolloer lifter, rocker arms pushrods, pistons rings, new valve guides. Also I am putting a new ACDelco water Pump on and a new T-stat. Right now they are saying i will have the motor done by Friday and then over to the place i had pull it, and hopefully they will have it done by Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

[Edmond]

spend the little extra money and get 1.6 roller rockers!

 

[Vettefan87]

Well I am very disappointed in the customer service of the local parts store I ordered my Water pump from. Monday my dad called and they said they would have one in today and that my dad should call on Wednesday at about 12 and see if the truck has come in. So when my dad called the guy said it wasnt there yet and that he would call him. So by at three my dad called them back and he said the truck had already left and there was no water pump that came in ad . So the guy ends up hanging up on my father, and when he calls them back the guy on the phone gets in a big fight about how we will have to pay in advance and that he initially told him it wouldnt be in for over a week, and says dont call here again Mfer. To say the least I am very disappointed. So I went to Auto Zone and got a lifetime replacement one.

 

[Vettefan87]

I just got home from picking up my motor at the rebuilders and taking it over to the place that is putting the motor back in the car for me. They bored it 20 thousandths over, so what is it now a 370? If everything goes alright and they get the oil cooler cleaned easily i could have my vette back by Wednesday.

 

[grumpyvette]

disconnect both battery terminals, drain all oil and coolent, use quality jack stands and wheel chocks, put the parking break on, keep a fire extinguisher handy , make very sure the car cant be knocked off the jack stands,THINK THU EVERY MOVE,DON,T ALLOW YOUR HANDS INTO PLACES THAT WILL GET CRUSHED IF SOMETHING SLIPS OR BREAKS,

DON,T FORGET TO BRING DOZENS OF THOSE TIE ON LINEN TAGS TO LABEL EVERY CONNECTOR AS YOU REMOVE IT AS TO WHERE IT CONNECTS, a marker that gas and oil won,t make the ink run, AND A DIGITAL CAMERA TO TAKE DOZENS OF PICTURES AS YOU DO THE WIRE REMOVAL TO USE LATER AS A REFERANCE TO MAKE THE RE-INSTALL EASIER
BTW theres no way to write all the necessary info on the tag so just write a large number and then write all your info on a large pad with that number on the top of the page and the same number on the back of any photo if you can later when the pictures are developed or down loaded to your computer and printed out
remember to support the transmission, BEFORE you pull the engine , just letting it drop could cost you big$$$
keep a 5 gallon bucket around to theow ALL the bolts in but take the time to lable zip lock bags for each group of bolts also ,(bags like )(intake bolts)(header bolts)(accesories)(water pump)(motor mount)(bellhouseing) (head bolts)CAN HELP A GREAT DEAL IN GETTING THE CORRECT BOLTS BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOTS
clean all bolts befor reuse with a mix of diesel/carb cleaner and a wire brush and look for worn or corroaded parts needing replavement
YOU DON,T NEED to pull the hood to pull the engine,(MOST CARS) but if you do,lightly dust the hood mount locations with white paint,this allows you to exactly replace the hood alighnment correctly by showing exactly how they were previously installed (RECOVER(REPAINT) AFTER THE HOODS REPLACED WITH BLACK paint AGAIN)
take lots of notes and pictures, lable every connection
its far easier with two people!
adding an engine leveler and swivel to your engine crane makes things far easier

adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES)

youll need two of these rated at similar load strength[/b]