Questions regarding replacing my FX3 Shocks

[qblue90]

I've finally gotten my new FX3's from Bilstein and I can not wait to get them on as my car has felt mushy for quite a long time now. I have a couple questions that I would like to ask to those who have done this job already. I do not want to make any mi$$$takes and I dont want any unnecessary downtime.

To begin, yes I do have the FSM and yes I've read the sections on front and rear shock replacement, but it is somewhat vague on some points. I'm a semi-competent backyard wrencher and I have done shocks/struts on other vehicles before. This job looks easy enough. Its the actuators that worry me.

Looks like all I have to do is pull the actuator retaining clip and the actuator should come right off correct? Does the position of the actuator ie.. Tour, Sport, Perf matter when I go to reinstall on the new shock? For that matter, does the position of the new shock ( again Tour, Sport, Perf) ? Does anyone know what adjustment position Bilstein ships new shocks in? Not sure if that even matters.

It looks like I could probably do this job without jacking up the car and removing the wheels. The FSM states that I should use a jack stand under the control arm for support if I do jack the car up. Should I put some of the weight of the vehicle down on the jack stand to put the suspension in a "ride" position? I hope that question makes sense. So the suspension is not just hanging?

Are there any other things I should be aware of before I begin this job? I just want to make sure I cover all the bases and don't do more harm than good.

I appreciate any help anyone could offer!

 

[boomdriver]

Can;t help with the selector position, but on the mounting, if the shock is gas charged it will have a band to hold it closed and IF you allow that shock to expand before its mounted...you'll never get it on without having it pressed back together and banded...the gas charge is extreme. So install with the suspension loaded, or compressed so the closed shock can fit. Then cut the band.

 

[Toms007]

Been a while since I changed shocks on my 94 (Z07 car), but IIRC, the actuators are installed and when you turn on the key, they go through a self test and then position themselves with whatever setting you have it on.

 

[Hib Halverson]

The position on the actuator on the top of the shock is not specific to a given range. You just install the actuator. Make sure you read the FSM before doing the installation.

There is a lot of information on the FX3 system and its service at:
Corvette Action Center | Tech | C4 Corvette's Selective Ride Control - Six Steps for a King's Ride

You do not need to support the car on stands at ride height.

 

[qblue90]

Thanks for the responses guys! I really appreciate it.

The shocks are not banded, but I am wondering if there might be an internal lock on them?

From your responses, I do not need to worry about the actuator/shock setting to install. Once I install them and turn on the key, all will be right with the world.

I have read the FSM and yes Hib, I have a copy of 6 Steps in the throne room and have read it several times actually. Very informative article, thank you.

I guess I will go out and see what I can do...

Thanks again guys!

Kevin.

 

[Hib Halverson]

SRC shocks are shipped with no banding and no internal lock.

You install the actuators in any orientation. The first time the system is energized, the actuators operate full sweep to index the bypass valves.

 

[qblue90]

Thanks for the tips guys! Turned out this was a pretty easy job. Great improvement in ride quality.

One thing that I am watching now is my SRC lamp. Right after finishing the install the SRC was on, but went off after moving the vehicle 100ft or so. Drove the car the rest of the day without issue. The very next day, at first start up, the SRC was on and it stayed on. It took a key cycle to clear it. So far it has not come back on again.

Thanks again for the tips!

 

[Hib Halverson]

Thanks for the tips guys! Turned out this was a pretty easy job. Great improvement in ride quality.

One thing that I am watching now is my SRC lamp. Right after finishing the install the SRC was on, but went off after moving the vehicle 100ft or so. Drove the car the rest of the day without issue. The very next day, at first start up, the SRC was on and it stayed on. It took a key cycle to clear it. So far it has not come back on again.

Thanks again for the tips!

I, too, have had trouble with the SRC service light coming on after installing new or freshly rebuilt SRC shocks. I decided it was because, when brand new, the seals on the bypass valve shaft resist the valve's rotation enough that the system sets a "time-out" error. After a little bit of use, the seals seem to "wear-in" a bit and "time-out" errors stop occurring.

 

[aklim]

Change the bushings on the top too