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Rear main seal leaks...>

I've been using moly rings for over forty years, and I have yet to see an engine that had properly seated rings with less than a hundred hours running time. Moly isn't magic; the rings and walls still have to develop a mating surface that is flat-to-flat, and synthetic oil inhibits that process. Newer computer designed and conputer controilled building and ssembly merely makes all the tolerances closer when the engine is put together, making it far more likely that the rings will be properly seated when installed.
 
JohnZ said:
Did you run a bead of sealer around the top surface of the valve cover gaskets to seal them to the covers before installing them? When they leak, they leak between the cover and the gasket, not between the gasket and the head, unless the head seal surface is in really bad shape.
Yes I did and thanks for the tips and info...:)

I might add, how tight do you tighten the valve cover bolts?
 
Just "snug" with a 1/4 drive wratchet will do. No reason to go too tight. Recheck them after you drive it around a bit, then a couple of hundred miles later. Then, on each and every oil change, and you should be fine.
 
69MyWay said:
Just "snug" with a 1/4 drive wratchet will do. No reason to go too tight. Recheck them after you drive it around a bit, then a couple of hundred miles later. Then, on each and every oil change, and you should be fine.

Thank you Chris!
 
I've got sandwich gaskets with an aluminum retainer holding two silicone gaskets. They work GREAT! Well worth the fifty bucks!
 

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