sealent/adhesive for leaking dip stick

[jon79flavette]

This damm thing is driving me nuts, I have no leaks after the new motor and tranny rebuild, all EXCEPT the darn dip stick into the block opening,. At first I had a polishied aftermarket stick, looked good, but leaked.

I then got the factory GM with the ferrel that goes into the block (drivers side) then the factory hosing/stick inserts into that. I used a ATV sealent, and let it sit plenty long enough, it bleeds after running it above idle, simple but frustrating, is there any type of glue - high heat type sealent for this, not a silicone based product, and/or other suggestions.

 

[SwaveDave]

PorPatch from makers of Por 15. This stuff is super duper. Compatible with fuels, solvents, and oil. Comes in a tube , no mixing. Dries hard in 4 hours...and totally rock hard in 24 hours. Can be painted. www.por15.com $10 , i think.

Other very good product is JB Weld. Surface must be totally free of oil though. This is your cheapest and fastest way out. Available at most hardware stores. Get the original JB Weld..not the fast dry. Mix 2 tubes together. Dries solid in about 24 hours. Can be painted. I fixed a pinhole leak in my radiator 3 years ago...and still no leak. Has saved people big bucks over replacing things. $4.00

Good luck. Mine leaked a while back too.

Dave

 

[clar2001]

Jb weld is good ,or how about just flaring the end of the rod to fit the block tighter.

 

[jon79flavette]

I fixed a small radiator leak in a 94 chev truck at somewhere aroung 70k, and traded it in at 143k with that same radiator with the original 2 part JB weld, kinda forgot about that option, that was some time ago, sounds like a chezzy plug, but it's true

 

[SwaveDave]

I have fixed alot of things with JB WELD original. The other week i fixed a broken metal fence gate ; the bottom round pole had broken out of the end receptacle. I cleaned the heck out of it, lined it up, put some JB on there and held it together for awhile . Solid as a rock. It has to be the best $4 that anyone could ever spend. Its supposed to withstand over 2000 psi. Ive had people tell me theyve used it on headers and exhaust manifolds too ; my headers by the Heads typically run 520 f.

 

[jon79flavette]

clar, it's flared in the sense that it has ring at it's end. That is where I am doing a build-up in a shoulder way, but I can't form a perfect taper, and that would change my height/oil reading. It's just been the most frustrating thing after such a rebuild. I am probably losing/venting less than an once at the most, but It sits on the brand new painted garage floor, and is just becoming a PITA. :confused ad

 

[jon79flavette]

I think I am gonna go in the hole with a few Q-tips, and solvent, clean the couple inces of the block, then clean and slightly score the male dip-stick rod, JB weld it, walk away for a day and see what happens.

 

[Dad]

Sounds to me like you may need to vent your crankcase better. Your dip stick tube should not require that much to seal it, just the light press fit that they come from the factory with.

If the valve covers and/or the intake has been changed the crankcase venting can be restricted or none at all. With the engine running pull the dip stick and check for pressure coming out of the tube. There should be very little if any that is detectable. My 72 is loose enough to pull out with very little effort and it moves some as the engine runs but it does not leak.

 

[C3forME]

My oil dipstick leaks also, I thought maybe just putting a new dipstick tube would solve the problem but sounds to me from listening to you guys that's not going to do it. My Tranny dipstick tube leaks as well, is there a o-ring that goes there or what. I would hate to have to JB weld them into place because if you ever needed to take them apart your basically screwed. Besides they are not glued in from the factory and they didn't leak then, is it possible that the end of the tube became out of round over the years from pulling the stick in and out and worked it's way loose? Both of mine just wiggle around loosely in the hole. I noticed that the one for the tranny has a tab on it that bolts to the side of the transmission to keep it from moving, mine is missing the bolt. Hopefully after cleaning it up and replacing the bolt on the tube it will no longer move or leak. The one for the oil though does not have any apparent way to mount it to anything to keep it from moving. I think when the previous owner installed the headers on it they had to remove the tube to get the driver's side header installed. They must have wiggled and pulled on the tube until it came out and bent the end of it so that it doesn't fit tight anymore. I'm still going to try a new tube and see what happens.