Help! Serpentine Devils

[ForestGreen75]

I'm lost as to what the 'special tool' or breaker bar does when changing the belt on a 96 LT1- Can the tensioner 'go bad' and be tough to move because I can't get the thing to slacken the belt to replace it...web searches tell me to "To remove the belt, place the end of the breaker bar or tensioner bar into the square hole on the belt tensioner. "

After 80+ cars I must be blind... there is no square hole on a 96 belt tensioner. Any other tricks out there for me to try?

 

[rascal_rascal_99]

Double check again, there should be a square hole for you to insert the tip of a breaker bar in.

Tensioners can freeze up in place after long periods of time so when you do get it to move and get the belt off, make sure that it moves smoothly.

 

[jmccloud]

'96 Serpentine tensioner

On my '95 the tensioner is between the power steering pulley and the crank pulley. It is a hex head, 15mm as I recall, that requires a socket. A breaker bar (with socket attached) is more compact than a ratchet, so is more convenient. The tensioner pulley swings upward (clockwise viewed from the front of the car) away from the belt. The upper radiator hose tends to get in the way of the breaker bar handle.
Most sockets aren't symmetrical, so turning it 90 or 180 or 270 degrees on the breaker square drive will give an alternate starting point that may produce more clearance.
Good luck.

 

[Paul Higg]

And PLEASE be careful of the engine coolant sensor plug. It will snap right off. The last owner did this to mine so when I pulled the radiator for cleaning I replaced it at the same time.

I replaced my belt with a socket and the real thin breaker bars they rent at Advance Auto. Worked like a champ.

 

[Toms007]

On my '95 the tensioner is between the power steering pulley and the crank pulley. It is a hex head, 15mm as I recall, that requires a socket. A breaker bar (with socket attached) is more compact than a ratchet, so is more convenient. The tensioner pulley swings upward (clockwise viewed from the front of the car) away from the belt. The upper radiator hose tends to get in the way of the breaker bar handle.
Most sockets aren't symmetrical, so turning it 90 or 180 or 270 degrees on the breaker square drive will give an alternate starting point that may produce more clearance.
Good luck.

Yup, 15mm is what it takes. I bought a tensioner release tool (flat breaker bar looking thing) that included all sorts of attachments, 15mm socket, 17mm socket, another flat bar to change angles, etc. made swapping out the belt much easier.

 

[ForestGreen75]

Thanks for the help! This site is GREAT! I was able to get the entire tensioner off to replace and was very careful about the sensor. Found out the air intake was not connected properly (Bunched up rubber intake boot under the clamp)- sucking 'dirty air' so got that to fix and then saw the entire MAF sensor was on backwards,,, wierd. Don't have it together yet but see no problems - thanks alot for all the help!

 

[Paul Higg]

Sounds like you had quite a mess Forest. Glad you found so much help on this site. I know I have. I would have been lost without all the great people here and the huge amount of experience to draw on. The people on this site are first rate.