norvalwilhelm
Well-known member
These are some shots of my new homemade pan.
This is some of the internal baffling I added. The front hoop is for hard breaking and cornering and the slanted rear is for hard acceleration.
I am using the principle of fluid flowing and trying to direct it’s escape route into my sump. Only time will tell if I works.
It is made from 16 gage cold rolled steel and mig
welded together. Believe it or not you get less distortion from MIG then you do from Tig.
I have to leak test the pan. To do that you paint all welds with Bluing, a machinist lay out die, Then dump alcohol into the ban and any tiny crack will allow the alcohol to creep out and remove the layout die.
After that I will finish grinding and cleanout up the appearance of the welds and then have the pan powder coated.
I will then calibrate the dip stick
To do this you choose a level of oil you are comfortable with. In my case it will be just to the bottom of the windage tray. Using varsol I will carefully dump quarts into the pan keeping track of the number until the ban is filled to the level I want.
I will then mark this down as the oil pan capacity,’
Once the pan is on the car I will fill it to one quart LESS then capacity, let it sit and install the dip stick. I will then mark the dip stick and lower level or down a quart.
I will add the quart to full level and remark the dip stick as full. Using an engraver I will do a nice job of marking the dip stick and the safe zone.
I will show pictures after my son powder coats it red.
My friends each got a new pan this winter and Doug brought his over. I wanted one. I priced them at about $400 from Moroso and being cheap decided to build my own,
I will send the powder coating guys a pizza and a case of cokes for changing the production gun from black to red and doing the job.
This is some of the internal baffling I added. The front hoop is for hard breaking and cornering and the slanted rear is for hard acceleration.
I am using the principle of fluid flowing and trying to direct it’s escape route into my sump. Only time will tell if I works.
It is made from 16 gage cold rolled steel and mig
welded together. Believe it or not you get less distortion from MIG then you do from Tig.
I have to leak test the pan. To do that you paint all welds with Bluing, a machinist lay out die, Then dump alcohol into the ban and any tiny crack will allow the alcohol to creep out and remove the layout die.
After that I will finish grinding and cleanout up the appearance of the welds and then have the pan powder coated.
I will then calibrate the dip stick
To do this you choose a level of oil you are comfortable with. In my case it will be just to the bottom of the windage tray. Using varsol I will carefully dump quarts into the pan keeping track of the number until the ban is filled to the level I want.
I will then mark this down as the oil pan capacity,’
Once the pan is on the car I will fill it to one quart LESS then capacity, let it sit and install the dip stick. I will then mark the dip stick and lower level or down a quart.
I will add the quart to full level and remark the dip stick as full. Using an engraver I will do a nice job of marking the dip stick and the safe zone.
I will show pictures after my son powder coats it red.
My friends each got a new pan this winter and Doug brought his over. I wanted one. I priced them at about $400 from Moroso and being cheap decided to build my own,
I will send the powder coating guys a pizza and a case of cokes for changing the production gun from black to red and doing the job.