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- #61
I'm going to merge the two "ammeter" threads, and then tell you what happened today. 

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Ken Anderson said:... Your ammeter uses an air core meter movement and is not a "galvanometer" and is the most modern design to date ... How many more questions can be asked and not correctly answered about this subject?
bossvette said:Is there any possibility that your battery is low and is actually still being charged ? The meter was origionally designed to read current flow from a much smaller Alt. maybe the greater charge rate of the 95 amp is confusing the Ammeter like it is everyone else![]()
67HEAVEN said:P.S. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I'm passing the Tylenol around.![]()
Wasted days and wasted nights ....67HEAVEN said:What do the numbers on the BATTERY gauge represent?
-40 what?
+40 what?
Billybeau1 said:Thanks I needed that.Do you own an ammeter? If so check what the current is at the battery and compare to the gauge. If its different then your gauge or something in the circuit is probably miswired. If its the same then I still think it might be the battery. At least you've eliminated the alternator. Your getting closer.
Remember what they say in real estate: "Location, location, location". With the key on, engine off, all you are measuring with the fans connected to the battery and the location of your ammeter, is current through the alternator (remember the field current?). The current supplied to the fans is coming from the battery, outside of the circuit the ammeter is in (given the way you have the fans hooked up). Have you looked at the specs for the fans to see what the current draw is?67HEAVEN said:"So", says my pea brain. "The car hadn't cooled off completely, and the twin electric fans flipped on. Must be the fans."
Once back in the garage, with the engine shut down, the fans were still operating. I turned the key to ON and noticed only a -05 reading. If the fans caused a spike from +20 to +40 with the engine running, it seems odd for them to only draw -05 with the engine off.
KOPBET said:Remember what they say in real estate: "Location, location, location". With the key on, engine off, all you are measuring with the fans connected to the battery and the location of your ammeter, is current through the alternator (remember the field current?). The rest is coming from the battery.
67HEAVEN said:Okay. So the current through the alternator (fans on / alternator not spinning) is -05 amps. The rest that the fans are drawing could be measured if I could splice a gauge (or meter) between the battery and the fans?
KOPBET said:You're catchin' on! And it's -5 because it is coming FROM the battery TO the alternator. A clamp-on meter would save you from a splice. If you insert an ammeter into the circuit make sure it has enough range or you will let the smoke out of it. :W
Use the "Force" Luke ...67HEAVEN said:Tell me Sensei, where are we headed? Is there a answer somewhere in the Universe? (Trouble is, I'm not sure which question I need an answer for anymore). Should I just drive it until the alternator, the battery, the horns, the fans, or the fuel pump go up in smoke? Maybe it's happy at +40.
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67HEAVEN said:Others have suggested moving the "appliances" to the horn relay, so that will be next on my list. What sidetracked me from doing that earlier was the +40 reading I got even after pulling the fuses from the fan and the fuel pump.
I don't think we're in Kansas anymore Toto.![]()
67HEAVEN said:Not very far.
KOPBET said:I though maybe you had Fuelie riding shotgun with a squeeze box.(faster!, Fuelie, faster!)
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67HEAVEN said:I tried to talk Z28Canuck into lying on the roof with a jar of high-test and a hose, but he wouldn't go for it. :eyerole