Starter/Igniton Problem

[jsan]

I have a 1967 Vette with a 327/300. I recently attempted to start the car, and the engine continued to crank after I shut the key off. I assumed that either the starter solenoid fried, or the ignition switch went bad. I purchased a new Powermaster starter, and installed it. Again, the starter would not stop cranking, and I had to remove the neg battery cable. I removed the igntion switch completely, and I still have the same problem. I figure that there must be a short somewhere. Any ideas guys? Thanks,

 

[craig32]

I have the same problem with an 83 SS, but your Vette doesn't have a column switch, right? If you changed the starter and it still does it, it would have to be the switch. In my case, I'm told it is the contacts at the bottom of the steering column, but haven't really checked it out yet. Does it kick out when the engine starts?

Craig

 

[jsan]

It is a dash mounted switch. I haven't started the engine, but I think the starter will continue to spin and get damaged. I have already disconnected the ignition switch, and the starter still cranks, so I don't get it.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Do you have a diagram for the wireing,

TO me it seams real simple. You have a shorted wire.

Quick understanding here is that the B+ connects from the battery to the solinode on the starter"B" terminal Big Lug. That is always hot. Then there is a wire from the ignition switch ( I think its the purple). that should have NO power to it unless the key is turned to the start posistion. That should be on the "S" terminal on the solinode

That should be the only wire on the "S" terminal If that has power when the switch is NOT in the start posistion then it has a short

are there any other wires on the "S"terminal ?

 

[jsan]

There is only one wire on the S terminal, but there are 3, including the battery cable, on the other terminal. On the original starter, these same 3 wires were also grouped together. The new starter does not have an R terminal, so I have eliminated it. I have a complete wiring diagram, and have traced all wires. I will take a closer look under the dash to see if I can find a short.

 

[IH2LOSE]

How did you eliminate the wire that was on the "R" terminal Just leave it off or splice it to another wire.

Disconect all the wires from the solonoide except for the big wire going to the battery . if the starter engages then its a bad starter or the big wire lug is install wrong and touching the "S " terminal

if you connect the big wire and nothing happens re-install the ignition switch as it was then put a test light on the purple and see if its hot ,if it hot then there is a short.

Do you know what the purpose is for the wire that was on the "R" terminal?

 

[jsan]

The "R" terminal supplies current to the coil during cranking to make starting the engine easier. Since I am running MSD, I no longer need it, so it has been capped. I will try your suggestions and let you know how it works out. Thanks for the info. I ordered a new ignition switch, hopefully it will arrive today or tomorrow. The old switch has something rattling around inside, and may have been the cause of the short. I'm thinking that it melted a wire somewhere.

 

[jsan]

I may have found the problem. It appears that the Powermaster starter that I just purchased, is no good. I removed all wires from it, except the pos. battery cable, and it still cranks the engine. I removed it from the car, placed it on the ground, and touched the positive cable from my battery charger to the large lug, and the neg. to the starter case, and it still spun. I am attempting to return it to the place I purchased it. Hopefully, I will get a new one that works. Joe