Help! Starter issues on my '88

[joatrash]

Well, the ol' gal seems to just keep getting more sick.My battery gave up ad died a few daysago (my fault, left the center console ajar) so I got a new battery. Well, as soon as the new battery was in place the starter started slipping sometimes, giving that wonderfull SCREAMING sound. She'll start, but I have to turn off the ignition every time she screams and slips, then eventually the gears will grab hold.So, I figured the starter was giving up and got a new one put in the shop. Now when I was driving home and stopped for a while, the darn thing screams AGAIN. So... maybe it's not the starter after all. Ideas?

 

[boomdriver]

Well, the ol' gal seems to just keep getting more sick.My battery gave up ad died a few daysago (my fault, left the center console ajar) so I got a new battery. Well, as soon as the new battery was in place the starter started slipping sometimes, giving that wonderfull SCREAMING sound. She'll start, but I have to turn off the ignition every time she screams and slips, then eventually the gears will grab hold.So, I figured the starter was giving up and got a new one put in the shop. Now when I was driving home and stopped for a while, the darn thing screams AGAIN. So... maybe it's not the starter after all. Ideas?

you mean shut it off for a while?

flywheel bolts loose, flywheel teeth worn down.
Starter not properly shimmed in place. Yes, these need to be shimmed for the correct fit/clearence.

Take flywheel cover off to inspect the bolts and flywheel as a whole.

 

[joatrash]

Thanks so much for the reply.

No, just turn the key back for a second.

I saw the flywheel when the shop had the starter out and it looked ok from what I could tell. The teeth on the old starter were slightly worn from the slipping. The engine seems to be untouched, so I'm assuming the first starter was the original and thus shimmed properly. (I'm going to have to ask the shop an extra time if they properly shimmed the new one.) Could the flywheel bolts be loose on an untouched engine? She has about 79K miles.


I'm mainly perplexed that the problem first showed itself RIGHT after changing the battery. (The old batt was pretty weak... I could tell by the power door locks.) Are there any relays or components that could be lagging when I try to start, causing the starter teeth to not interlock properly?

 

[boomdriver]

Thanks so much for the reply.

No, just turn the key back for a second.

I saw the flywheel when the shop had the starter out and it looked ok from what I could tell. The teeth on the old starter were slightly worn from the slipping. The engine seems to be untouched, so I'm assuming the first starter was the original and thus shimmed properly. (I'm going to have to ask the shop an extra time if they properly shimmed the new one.) Could the flywheel bolts be loose on an untouched engine? She has about 79K miles.


I'm mainly perplexed that the problem first showed itself RIGHT after changing the battery. (The old batt was pretty weak... I could tell by the power door locks.) Are there any relays or components that could be lagging when I try to start, causing the starter teeth to not interlock properly?

Its sometimes difficult to see the wear on geat teeth. If edges are rounded, or tops worn down it might not be obvious until you're looking for such things. There can be a few inches of bad teeth that are surrounded by good ones.

The only thing between the key/ign switch and the starter is the starter solenoid, between there and the battery, several feet of cable. I have seen cables that were rotted inside the plastic insulation that had most of the cable gone from corrosion. That can fail to carry the amperage needed for a good starter spin. Not common but it does happen.
Is the engine tuned and timed properly ? > if its too far advanced it will act like the battery is near dead when trying to start it...

 

[vetteoz]

I saw the flywheel when the shop had the starter out and it looked ok from what I could tell. The teeth on the old starter were slightly worn from the slipping. The engine seems to be untouched, so I'm assuming the first starter was the original and thus shimmed properly. (I'm going to have to ask the shop an extra time if they properly shimmed the new one.

Are you sure noise is from starter
Doubtful two different starters would have same problem

No, just turn the key back for a second.
I'm mainly perplexed that the problem first showed itself RIGHT after changing the battery. (The old batt was pretty weak... I could tell by the power door locks.) Are there any relays or components that could be lagging when I try to start, causing the starter teeth to not interlock properly?

Possible the ign switch or starter relay is hanging up resulting in power to starter when there should be none

Could the flywheel bolts be loose on an untouched engine? She has about 79K miles.

If the bolts were loose turning the key off would have no effect on noise

 

[boomdriver]

Are you sure noise is from starter
Doubtful two different starters would have same problem

Possible the ign switch or starter relay is hanging up resulting in power to starter when there should be none


If the bolts were loose turning the key off would have no effect on noise

I wonder if the key switch is sticking and keeping the starter engaged beyond its normal run? slow to release? hitting the starter on a running engine sounds like something coming apart...thats pretty obvious. Everybody has done it. Everybody has heard someone else do it too...

I did have an old dodge p/u that had the sticking key. Ate several starters before we got the key switch and column rod/switch sorted out.