stuck seat anchor bracket

[mcditalia]

I removed the seats today and discovered that the rear seat anchor brackets on both sides are badly rusted with the bolts just being a big blob of rusted metal fused to the metal plate.

I'm trying to think of how to remove the mentioned pieces without damaging the fiberglass in the process. Any ideas? Your thoughts are appreciated. ;help

 

[stepinwolf]

I removed the seats today and discovered that the rear seat anchor brackets on both sides are badly rusted with the bolts just being a big blob of rusted metal fused to the metal plate.

I'm trying to think of how to remove the mentioned pieces without damaging the fiberglass in the process. Any ideas? Your thoughts are appreciated. ;help

MC, been there, done that, and this is not going to be a fun thing to do, but it's like a bad tooth, it has to be removed.

You will need to get your hands on an electric, or air operated die grinder, with a carbide tip, preferably one with a rounded end. Since your seats have been removed, I would put down a few small pieces of cardboard to keep the sparks from damaging sections of the carpet that can't be removed.

Now slowly grind away the rusted head of the bolt until you can remove the chromed seat belt anchor. Next I would recommend that you use a small, very sharp chisel, and cut off the heads of the eight rivets that hold the seat belt reinforcement to the fiberglass body.

Once the reinforcement is removed, you can use an oxy/acy torch to heat the captive nut on the bracket, so that the damaged bolt can be removed, Now if the bracket is re-usable, use a small amount of anti-seize on the nut, and re-install the bracket to the body. All that is left to do is to re-install the components.

The attached pic, shows the carbide tip and replacement rivets that I use to repair my own brackets. If your brackets are not re-usable, the best replacements can be found at http://www.cscreproductions.com/63_67_4.htm the part numbers you will need are B1354AN, & B1355AN.

Good luck,,

Stepinwolf

 

[paul67]

Bob's reply is, as usual, extremely informative!

I tackled a similar job on my 1967 several weeks ago but the intent was to install three-point, retractable belts. I let the hardware soak in penetrating oil for three days and with some persuasion, things came apart very nicely. If the C2 anchor points are common across the years, the inboard brackets are captive bolt with attaching nuts and the outboard are captive nut with attaching Allen head bolts. Sort of a male/female combination that you may wish to consider when plotting the solution. Inboard and outboard may require a different approach to getting the anchors loose.

I was not aware of the source Bob cited but my inclination (for $20/bracket) would be to remove the rivets as suggested and start anew with those parts. Then you'll be good for many more years.

 

[JohnZ]

I think he's talking about the bolts (item 7) holding the hat-section bracket (item 4) that the rear end of the '66 seat tracks slide into.

 

[stepinwolf]

I think he's talking about the bolts (item 7) holding the hat-section bracket (item 4) that the rear end of the '66 seat tracks slide into.

Paul, it might have been better if I had been less informative, and had read, and interpreted the question correctly know before responding. That way I would not have given everyone the impression that I did not know what the héll I was talking about.

John, you are absolutely correct, I really have to check the last batch of smoke I was given. That being said, in this case the exact same procedure should be used.

Grind away the heads of the rusted out bolts, pop the rivets, and remove/replace the nut plates and rear seat hold downs. Here are the necessary replacement parts.

http://www.cscreproductions.com/63_67_5.htm

Sorry for the confusion, , usually I don't make nistakes :confused

Stepinwolf

 

[mcditalia]

Thanks for the responses. John Z is right, I am talking about the bolts he mentioned. If I grind away at the heads up top and pop off the rivets on the plate underneath , then it sounds like the bolt would come off with the bottom plate, right? I just dont want to take a big pice of fiberglass along for the ride hnoes

I also realized that the whole weight of the seat and passenger is supported basically by the fiberglass under structure. As I'm pushing on it, i see it flex underneath, amazing (too me at least).

 

[67HEAVEN]

I also realized that the whole weight of the seat and passenger is supported basically by the fiberglass under structure. As I'm pushing on it, i see it flex underneath, amazing (too me at least).

Yeah. It's kinda freaky to think about while you're screamin' down the back straight at 150. The only thing between your cheeks and the pavement is a tinsy bit of fibreglass.

 

[paul67]

I apologize for my contribution. Did not add to the solution.

 

[stepinwolf]

I apologize for my contribution. Did not add to the solution.

Paul,

My grand'pa used to say if you don't do nutting, and don't say nutting, you will never make nistakes. However if we did so, it would be a sad world.

Keep on making your contributions, but take a tip from me, be sure you respond to the question, rather then whale on as I did on a subject that was not even relevant.

Stepinwolf