Tell me it is a good thing to have gray metal fake in your rear end oil

[jackfit]

Hello out there in Corvette land...


Time for maintenance on my car after puting 60,000 miles on it in the last 4 years.


About 250-300 k miles on car and rear end.


Did not take good car of it for 40 years, but have drained and cleaned and new fluids etc . preparing it for my travels.


I have been having vibrations and did replace u joints on half-shaft last month on pass. side.


Noticed some vibration....could it be the mechanic who did the work (me)...


So car really make a noise (pop) after a few weeks of driving...noticed a really thump ,


Tonight have car up on jacks, turn wheels and hear crackling sound as I rotate wheel. Can't be good ...


I drain rear and as I look at fluid from my hose it looks like gray metal fake in the gear oil


So...what 's the story....I was going to fill it and see what happens...but will wait for your opinions..


Jack

 

[Toms007]

Can't think that is good Jack, but I'm no mechanic. Hopefully someone who knows for sure will check in here. Get it fixed and back on the road, love your travels.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I have had that before and it was the ring and pinion. Mine looked like silver paint. I think it is time for a look at the gears and everything else inside.

Tom

 

[Hib Halverson]

250,000-300,000 miles in the rear axle, metal chips in the lubricant and you're asking us if there's a problem?
Well....duh.

I wouldn't even bother taking it apart. I'd order a reman drive axle from Zip Products and send the old one in as your core.

 

[Midnight 99]

I agree with Hib. If there is more than just a light silver coloration the chunk is junk!!! A light coloration can be attributed to posi clutch wear but even then with that many miles on the rear, the clutches could be broken and that may be the noise you hear especially since you are hearing the noise without the rear being under a load. It also could be a carrier or pinion bearing that is shot. If you move the pinion back and forth in short jerks and it makes a clunk, then the gears are worn out. If you continue to drive it like that you will eventually break a couple of teeth from the ring gear. As you can see there is no good scenario here. Replace the chunk.

 

[jackfit]

I have had that before and it was the ring and pinion. Mine looked like silver paint. I think it is time for a look at the gears and everything else inside.

Tom

Hi, I ran out at 6 am this morning and put a magnet in the oil. None of the oil stuck to the magnet. But I do agree, lots of miles on the that rear. Before my trips , 2010, I drained the rear, cleaned it out with ATF, drove it in parking lot , figure 8's, ....drained and flushed, put in fresh oil and additive.

The particles are very very very very tiny and all are the same size. Does not look like chips ......but does have a slight silver appearance. Will refill with new oil/ additive. But I do agree, it may be time. The problem will be getting my rear out of the car. There is no way that the rear carrier will come off the crossmember......the bolts are rusted so that that are part of the carrier. The cross-member Sombrero bushings are rusted etc, etc tec

Jack

 

[Midnight 99]

You do not have to remove the entire rear. Remove the half shafts. Remove the two front mounting bracket bolts and the eight bolts holding the carrier to the rear cover and tilt the carrier down and out. You can either replace the entire differential or order the parts and have yours rebuilt if you know a reputable rebuilder. You would need new bearings, shims, gaskets, clutch packs, and a gear set. Good luck what ever you decide.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Hi, I ran out at 6 am this morning and put a magnet in the oil. None of the oil stuck to the magnet. But I do agree, lots of miles on the that rear. Before my trips , 2010, I drained the rear, cleaned it out with ATF, drove it in parking lot , figure 8's, ....drained and flushed, put in fresh oil and additive.

Let me get this straight....you put ATF in the rear drive axle then drove the car with that as the lubricant?
I surmise that if the gears and limited slip clutches weren't damaged prior to that, they were afterwards.

The particles are very very very very tiny and all are the same size. Does not look like chips ......but does have a slight silver appearance. Will refill with new oil/ additive. But I do agree, it may be time. The problem will be getting my rear out of the car. There is no way that the rear carrier will come off the crossmember......the bolts are rusted so that that are part of the carrier. The cross-member Sombrero bushings are rusted etc, etc tec

Jack

If you have ANY visible metal in the gear lubricant, whether it's small particles, like metal flake paint, or big chips, you have a problem.

My guess is the only way you're going to get rear axle crossmember out is to spray a good penetrant, such as Aerokroil, on the top of the crossmember mounts where it can soak down into the threads. Wait 12-hours, then get a six-point impact socket and an impact gun and remove the bolts. Then use a "Porta-Power" to separate the crossmember from the frame.

Or....unbolt the rear axle carrier leaving the rear axle diff cover in place on the cross member.

CAC sponsor, Zip Products, offers a C3 drive axle overhaul service.

 

[jackfit]

Let me get this straight....you put ATF in the rear drive axle then drove the car with that as the lubricant?
I surmise that if the gears and limited slip clutches weren't damaged prior to that, they were afterwards.



If you have ANY visible metal in the gear lubricant, whether it's small particles, like metal flake paint, or big chips, you have a problem.

My guess is the only way you're going to get rear axle crossmember out is to spray a good penetrant, such as Aerokroil, on the top of the crossmember mounts where it can soak down into the threads. Wait 12-hours, then get a six-point impact socket and an impact gun and remove the bolts. Then use a "Porta-Power" to separate the crossmember from the frame.

Or....unbolt the rear axle carrier leaving the rear axle diff cover in place on the cross member.

CAC sponsor, Zip Products, offers a C3 drive axle overhaul service.

Hi, thanks for the replies. I put new fluids in and it is still vibrating.. Unfortunately, it does not feel like it is the rear, but a rear bearing thump or out of sync u-joint....I tried to move the wheel side to side when up and could not feel any give , I once had the wheel come off from a failed rear bearing , so I don't want that to happen...

What is a simple check I can do ?

Thanks

Jack

 

[Hib Halverson]

If you are on-and-off the gas and when you do that you get a clunk-clunk which sounds like it's coming from just behind you and just to your right, jack the back end up and inspect the drive axle "nose bracket" for elongated holes. If they are elongated either replace the bracket or weld hardened washers over the holes.

If the clunk-cluink is coming from the prop shaft, replace both u-joints.

If the clunk-clunk is coming from the drive axle itself–well...we're back to the original suggestion: overhaul the rear end.

 

[jackfit]

Hi , I put the ATF in 4 years ago. It was after I drained it for the first time in 3o years. Drove 3 minets of figure 8 drained , and fill with oil and posi additive . Drove 60,000. Miles. It is not clunking. It is more of a rotating knock. Only under gas. I let up and no nocking , bad u joints squeak with out gas input.

Jack

 

[jackfit]

update rear locked up...

Hi, took my son for little ride in car to feel thump in rear or drive train. Let him drive down driveway, he goosed the gas , bad idea ...


Something let go in drive train. Stopped car, no drive shafts hanging, but...


Car will only go forward or backward one revolution of wheel then stops. It will do it in all 4 gears forward and reverse.

Called flatbed, to get car back to my garage.


It seems that the rear let go....


I get the car up on jack stands.... time for rear end removal/ strut rods bushing, body mounts, tranny removal, and if possible crossmember , later after rear removal..plus a lot of stuff that is showing wear after 60,000 miles in the last three years.


I will ask for help after the weekend , just to make sure I take it apart in the right order....


It will be a real job to do on jack stands....I may offer some Lobsters for lunch as a reward for coming up to Maine to get the tranny off my chest or to help pry the crossmember off the frame...


Pictures later.....Son leaving Sunday, for new job in Seattle at Amazon as a robotics engineer...


Thanks in advance for you kindness and understanding , and supporting me as I cry under the car.......should be quite interesting...


Jack

 

[Mac]

Damn, Jack... That's a shame. Hopefully the needed repairs aren't difficult or ridiculously expensive.

Mac

 

[jackfit]

As the Prophets said in Halo , " It is time to begin the Great Journey"

Hi to all my wonderful friends out there in Corvette Land

I would love to have some one do the repairs, but I thought this would be a good time to have all the forum members come along for the ride. A lift would make it much easier, but that is not going to happen.

Today I turn the heat on in the garage, set the stage for major surgery, take photos for the before and as I do each step.

If I get into trouble , I will call for help, mostly , it is good to have an extra set of hands, if not just to drag me out from under the car.

It will also be a testament to modern Human Replacement Parts.

I have both hips and knees that have new joints, both wrists and ankles have been worked on and lets not even talk about my shoulders.

If I can drive Thousands of miles, fix my car, go to the gym, then so can many of you out there who may be putting off such work.

Give yourself a life.....if you need it, get it done...

Pictures to follow later today ....waiting for the garage to warm up..

Jack

 

[navy2kcoupe]

You go Jack! Nothing to do in Maine in the winter anyway! :L
Could have been much worse, like letting go at 70, or letting go
someplace in Sweden or Germany. Sounds like you're all ready to
have a go at it, so have fun and take it slow. I'm sure you'll be able
to get the rear out and back in again, and after it's repaired, it
should be good for another 40+ years. Just be sure to let us know
what you find when you get the rear end apart.
Andy

 

[kpic]

Hi, I ran out at 6 am this morning and put a magnet in the oil. None of the oil stuck to the magnet. But I do agree, lots of miles on the that rear. Before my trips , 2010, I drained the rear, cleaned it out with ATF, drove it in parking lot , figure 8's, ....drained and flushed, put in fresh oil and additive.

The particles are very very very very tiny and all are the same size. Does not look like chips ......but does have a slight silver appearance. Will refill with new oil/ additive. But I do agree, it may be time. The problem will be getting my rear out of the car. There is no way that the rear carrier will come off the crossmember......the bolts are rusted so that that are part of the carrier. The cross-member Sombrero bushings are rusted etc, etc tec

Jack

As it is non-magnetic, beats me what it is; but, it isn't gears or bearings.

Gear "wear" looks like a paste and it is magnetic. As it isn't magnetic. potentially, it is the friction material from the posi clutches.

 

[jackfit]

Day 1 of the Great Journey

So it begins...Day 1


I started today working on the car. Turned on heater in garage, keeps it about 50* if outside is below 32* and warmer if above.


First goal was to jack up car to view damage if possible


Next remove mufflers
Next to remove half shafts


Time 3 hours . One problem was not being able to rotate wheels more than 1 / 4 turn. That made unbolting haft shafts difficult because of small turns of wrench at odd angles on u-joint nuts.


There is little doubt that my rear end is dead.....


Now what to do next. Carrier bolts from cross member will never come out. It will be very difficult to unbolt the rear from carrier as there is no room to get at top bolts.


My sombreros are shot (48 years old) the only way I will get the rear out of the car is to take off the cross member with the rear end.


All the components (Strut rods bushing shot) , springs, drive shaft, have to be take off to drop the rear.


I am on my back doing this. Any suggestion on my next days work will be welcome. I am soaking all in penetrating oil .


Here some pictures of today's work


Car is ready





Getting ready





Up it goes and I hope not down on me





Stable I hope





Wheels off for room, but had to put them back on to rotate wheel





Haft Shafts Off ...one little turn at a time because or lock up of rear





This is the view - what to take off first ?





End of the day

 

[jackfit]

Day2 of the Great Journey

Hello and good morning to all. 9:30 am


Turned on heat as it was 27* in the garage . Will start work at 40*


Goals for today:


Take off rear spring without killing myself . I put on new height bolts so I am familiar with it. Main spring was new in 2004 , so bolts should come out with my big torque wrench.


Take off Strut bracket and rods , make need shock knocker later


Take off snuber bushing and bracket


Disconnect drive shaft


I will post pictures later in the day of my progress. Feel free to offer advice on any of the procedures that I am attempting in about 1 hour (10:30 am EST)


Need to sit in whirlpool first to loosen up for the up coming tasks


Jack

 

[jackfit]

Day2 of the Great Journey Pictures Update

Day 2


Hello and good Evening to all. 8:30 pm


I put in 3 1/2 hours or work today and quit around 2:30 pm . I had to stop because of lack of a shock knocker, ( found one tonight) and it was time to stand up.


Goals for today:


Take off rear spring without killing myself
Take off Strut bracket and rods ,
Need shock knocker to remove strut rod from spindle arm
and bracket

I was able to remove rear spring using a simple method of two jacks, one to hold trailing arm and one to compress spring in order to release tension on bolts.


I was also able to remove strut bracket , but had to leave in place until I can remove rods from spindle with shock knocker.


Once strut bracket is removed, I will remove snubber bushing , disconnect drive shaft and make decision on cross member removal/carrier removal to take out rear.


Here are the pictures


Support of spring / TA , jack is holding up shock mount not rotor





Unbolting nut by compressing spring with jack





Lower spring jack and down comes spring freeing bolt





Bolt free of spring and can now be pushed up and out





Spring can now be unbolted from carrier





Spring can now be removed





Shocks are freed from spindle , but left bolted on top





Rear End now free , ready for next days work , once strut bracket is removed when rods are free of shock mounts.





Parts on the floor, good 2 days work (7 hours slow me ) without any broken bolts !

 

[Mac]

Well done, Jack! My back aches just looking at the pictures!!

Mac