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Tripower carbs

Thanks John! Good point. However, after calling a few machine shops, they say they don't do that kind of work because it's tough to do the set up.


Hmmmm again.

But notice the recent picture taken of me at the mill. I look rather serious, don't I? Yeah, I can do Holley's no problem. I think that's one of VNV's old t-shirts that I'm wearing.

Dude...what's that your milling..?? Looks like a Bush Weed holder...:D
 
Dude...what's that your milling..?? Looks like a Bush Weed holder...:D


I am milling left-handed muffler bearings with fluted rifling for maximum turbulence. These are correct for only a FEW rare, '63 pilot cars, one of which was driven into a sign post on Woodward Ave by Zora. Nutmegger is now applying the correct numbers so that I can get it past judging.
 
Do you want the carb pictures or don't ya????????

As for the numbers: Before I apply the numbers:

How can we be sure the car originally came with the left hand muffler bearing option?

Do you have the original documentation and papers,?

What is the car worth if we sell it without the bearings?

How many red cars came with the LH-Bearing option? (What are the serial numbers of these cars?)

How many roadsters with LH Bearing option?

How many 4 door cars with LH - Bearing option? (Ultra Rare cars...saw one in a barn once belonged to the parents of a guy killed in Vietnam. Tried to buy it but the parents refused to sell it after almost 40 years)

Has one with LH Bearing options ever gone across the Barret Jackson Auction Block?

Have you verified the L-H Bearing dimensions against prints at the National Archives?

Can we get L.I.C.S. as an outlet for the LH- Bearings once we go into production?

Should we restore the car or resto mod it?

How much would not having the LH Bearings casue the car to depreciate? (assuming of course it is a genuine car originaly equipped with the LH Bearings and we can prove it)

The list of endless silly "How much is it worth and is it genuine" resto question goes on and on and on.

Anyone wanna add newer even more silly questions to the list? Have at it.
 
I responded to your PM and said "send away"

Regarding your questions about authenticity, I am creating the required documentation now. The I will post on NCRS to create an air of legitimacy and then you'll see my smiling mug on BJ :D
 
OK, so I stopped hyperventilating on this issue and decided to take a fresh look at this again.

Back to basics. Why am I all worked up about either buying a new six pack, or sending my old carbs for R&R or buying a mill to face the mating surfaces???

So, I basically took JohnZ's diagnostic at face value and went about it the way VNV and I talked about it over the weekend. First I took one of existing end carbs and pulled the base off and did the simple stuff like using a straight edge on the flats while using a light bulb in the background and then attaching the carb base to the carb body and shining a bright light into the throats and check externally for light leakage and here's what I found:

The bottom of the base plate (which mates to the intake) is low in the center and high at each corner at the stud hole. Slightly different heights at each corner.

The top of the base plate is high in the center and low all around the edge.

The bottom of the carb body is high at each corner at the screw hole.

When I first mated the base to the carb, without the gasket, the carb wobbled and I could see that the gasket would only tighten at the screw holes, allowing the gas to leak, exactly as JohnZ predicted.

So, I took VNV's advice as a starter and found the flatest, most durable surface that I have. That is the table top of my Craftsman table saw. I checked for flatness by using a pane of glass. Very flat.

I then placed each surface flat against various grits of paper going 240->400->600 and used a circular motion for the grinding. Since I knew where the high spots where, I used more leverage at those points with the 240 paper and then used the succeeding grits to ensure consistency.

Bottom line, no light shows through any metal to metal gap. Checked the level and the thickness at each point that I could access. Each surface looks like it was milled on a Bridgeport using a fine end mill. I'll be darned. Took me one hour for the first carb.

Now that I own a blast cabinet, I can strip each carb when I'm done and I think I'll give the Eastwood dichromate-like powder coat a shot. I'll post some before and after pictures.

I might as well buy 3 rebuild kits as cheap insurance. What I will also need is a new set of carb base screws and two vacuum diaphragms. Maybe I'll give Nutmegger's guy a call on that.

Yes, I will flatten the carb surface that faces the float bowl.

So far, so good and thanks for all the advice.
 
OK, got the phone numbers of ALL of the carb experts you folks recommended and I'll call them for parts availability.

Hopefully I can get what I need since I'm no longer going to request a rebuild.

Thanks for the leads.
 
John:

Yup, could do that. But THEN, I'd have people like VNV and JohnZ responding that's not the correct way to do it. Might as well tighten up the tolerences and avoid the Bubba thing.


That's why I say it's not neurosurgery. I've got the gasket to compensate for my lack of measuring close tolerences.
 
OK, here's the update.

I called the number I got for Woodruff and the line is "temporarily disconnected"

Called Jerry Luck and, at this point all I want is parts so he preferred that I call some other folks. BTW, he is booked solid and taking no more business. Jerry suggested I try an Ebay'r by the name of Carbguy (whose name is Craig and he retired recently to Florida) but I have no contact information. Can anybody help with that?

He also suggested Chicago Corvette and I did get rebuild kits, base plate screws and vacuum secondary screws from them. They have NO vacuum secondary diaphragms :W and they have been out of stock for ages. Freakin' Holley.

So, if anybody has some sources for me, please let me know.

Thx.
 
Before and after pictures of the first base plate. Also included a picture just for VNV to show off his fancy relay which I cut into the AC. Bead blasting time for the external carb components.
 
Yeah, you KNOW, the older I get, the less likely I am to send this stuff out. I just bead blasted some of the externals this morning and it's just the right surface for powder coating.


THANK GOD I never drank the NCRS KoolAid!!!!!!!!!! Labor rates are astounding for that stuff. Jerry Luck does really nice work and he's booked solid. Geez. $$$$$$$$$

Where DOES all this money come from? What is it, Saudi sheiks got into the hobby?????
 
Heh ..Looks good....the relay and the carb. Got your message late yesterday. I was in a 2 hour long tech meeting with a bunch of dummies..

:beer
 
Yeah, you KNOW, the older I get, the less likely I am to send this stuff out. I just bead blasted some of the externals this morning and it's just the right surface for powder coating.


THANK GOD I never drank the NCRS KoolAid!!!!!!!!!! Labor rates are astounding for that stuff. Jerry Luck does really nice work and he's booked solid. Geez. $$$$$$$$$


Where DOES all this money come from? What is it, Saudi sheiks got into the hobby?????

Don't get me started, just don't get me started on "Where does the money come from". I am not sure where it comes from but I KNOW what started the spending and the "My wallet is bigger than yours" so who is gonna chicken out first shootouts at BJ. Toooooooooo much Kool Aid.

Last night I watched the BJ auction while I was trying to fall asleep. Somebody paid well over $200K for a 66 427 / 425 HP car. "Oh" said the frothing at the mouth play by play commentator "It has all the NCRS paperwork also" Yeeeeeeup it did and it ALSO had AIR CONDITIONING I noticed. Hmmmmm Air in a 427 /425 / NCRS papers ??????..... Sure wanna buy a bridge????

The cost of EVERYTHING in this hobby is directly porportional to the prices paid by idiots at that auction. Just say NCRS / Numbers Match / Paperwork Available / Twiddlily Diddly Dumb and the dollars we ALL pay for everything go UP UP UP.

Went to the Lexus dealer today to pick up Mrs O's ride after some service. Saw a new 460 sedan with 380 HP!!!!!!!!! RWD and every whiz bang gadget on the face of the earth. $100,000 including a $4000 optional set of wheels. In a heartbeat, in a freakin heartbeat $100K for the Lex. Screw the $200K+ for the Vette at BJ.

Jerry Luck really does do great work, the carbs are perfect in appearance and they just plain worked. No leaks, no stumbles off idle, the choke worked. I mean to say it was really money well spent. Heck the idle was within 1/2 a turn of right for the RPM I wanted. I am sure he charged me less than $500 for all three.

Found the disk. Pictures to be sent soon even though you are doing it yourself. Prices have gotten me to "If I can't do it most likely it will not get done". The carbs were another story. I soaked em in carb cleaner till I worried they were gona disolve. Also I was fighting with another carb on the Vette at the time. That one went into the trash and got replaced with an aftermarket 780 Vac Secondary.
 
thanks guys.....


middlesex...not too far from my commute


OK, 100 Large for a Lexus that PARALLEL PARKS ITSELF...WHAT a COUNTRY but unfortunately, that country's Japan


...but i digress (i can hear the Lounge coming up if I don't keep ON TOPIC)....OK, since we're talking openly about costs...i was ASTOUNDED at the cost of tripower setups at carlisle, $3,500 for JUNQUE, very few oval port manifolds...i bought my oval port manifold (in decent but not great shape) plus 3 carbs plus AC base, screen and original chrome top for $1,250 at carlisle about 5 years ago....what can cause such escalation in price but for the half wits described by Nutmegger?

...'nother case in point, about the same time, i bought a '65 FI unit in perfect working order with a spare spider, spare fuel pump cable, a complete original FI rebuild kit, the correct two-part distributor with all the oil line plumbing...here's what i put into this FI unit -> the doghouse was a poor casting in one spot so i had a welder fill it in and i powdercoated the manifold, doghouse and cover...i blueprinted the distributor (disassembled it, i replaced the seals etc, i had the bushings replaced and the body was align bored and the shaft trued and fitted) and now it's shrink wrapped in a safe place....OK, at carlisle, perfectly refurbed FI units (NO DISTRIBUTOR) were going for 7 Large...what did i pay 5 years ago? less than 1/3rd that price for the whole shooting match

I literally have no intention of ever selling this stuff. The returns are much better than any equities we've ever bought, better than any investment, ever. Thank you BJ, THANK YOU.

why did i buy the FI unit? I was going to put it on the '65 and then came to my senses and put the damn thing in the Safety Deposit Box

idiots
 
You are right...as long as you are in the club and don't wanna get out all this infaltion (whoops that is inflation not infaltion) works great.

Let me know what youn think about todays E_mail. I hope you get some smiles out of the "humorist" posts in it.

Oman
 
You are right...as long as you are in the club and don't wanna get out all this infaltion works great.

Let me know what youn think about todays E_mail. I hope you get some smiles out of the "humorist" posts in it.

Oman

I hope you get some smiles out of the "humorist" posts in it.

Oman

I know I did....you guys crack me up......:L
 
LOVED your mail ;LOL
 

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