John Robinson
Gone but not forgotten
I can not figure out what the solid line in this switch indicates oo how the switch functions any help will be appreciated.
Question: Understanding wireing symbol
- Thread starter John Robinson
- Start date
gmjunkie
Well-known member
Yeah John. No Problem!!
There is 2 or 3 circuits there in your skeematic(Can't tell because of the wide Black Circle!!),and when the switch is pushed to RA that circuit stays Hot while the other is intermittently broken!!I take it your working on your cruse again!!
- Thread starter
- #3
John Robinson
Gone but not forgotten
Yeah John. No Problem!!
I take it your working on your cruse again!!
Yup
I just got home from the hospital after having a scare on Friday with chest pains. My son in law and I were trying to work out what that switch does. Thanks for the information and you are right I am still trying to make the cruise work. If I ever get the right wiring and switch combination I will publish it. I figure after this many months I might be able to inform others at least about how that little switch on the column works.
LT4man
Well-known member
John, I am very sorry to hear about your chest pains. I hope the Drs find out why you are having them.
I thought you had your cruise control working. Have you had an intermittent problem?
SAVE THE
I thought you had your cruise control working. Have you had an intermittent problem?
SAVE THE
Guitared
Member
I don't know if I can be of any help here but when my cruise control quit, it turned out to be that the vacuum line next to the battery had collapsed. It almost looked burned or something. I really don't know why it failed. I cut out the bad section and put a small hose in its place. Also, a vacuum check valve had failed (holes) located on the right side of the engine, next to the manifold under the fuel injectors cover. It almost seems like their was a sudden spike in vacuum to cause the damage. I don't know how this would be possible but I can't offer any better explaination. To my amazment Checker had the check valve in stock. It's been two years with no trouble.
Good luck!
Good luck!
wishuwerehere82
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 2,316
- Location
- Rochester, NY
- Corvette
- Red '82 Coupe,Sebring Silver '98 Coupe
John,
As Junk said that is a switch contact.
More specifically, it is the cruise switch on the turn signal lever.
It has 2 sets of circuit contacts that activate at the same time.
In the off position the switch contacts are open.
And the cruise control is off.
In the on position the contacts for the circuit schematic on the right are closed. That is the center position of the switch.
That turns on the cruise control.
The hot dog is the resume/accelerate contacts.(spring return)The hot dog indicates that the switch is closed in both the on and R/A position.
They stay closed when you push the button all the way in.
Which means that the cruise control is on, and the switch is being pushed to accelerate.
When you push the resume/accelerate part of the switch, which has a spring return, the contacts on the left side of the schematic open, but only as long as you push the switch.
That sends a signal to the cruise control to increase the spped.
I suspect that the center part of the circuit that is obscured is a separate switch contact on the end of the turn signal lever that is only closed when the switch is pushed in, that sends a signal to set the speed.
As Junk said that is a switch contact.
More specifically, it is the cruise switch on the turn signal lever.
It has 2 sets of circuit contacts that activate at the same time.
In the off position the switch contacts are open.
And the cruise control is off.
In the on position the contacts for the circuit schematic on the right are closed. That is the center position of the switch.
That turns on the cruise control.
The hot dog is the resume/accelerate contacts.(spring return)The hot dog indicates that the switch is closed in both the on and R/A position.
They stay closed when you push the button all the way in.
Which means that the cruise control is on, and the switch is being pushed to accelerate.
When you push the resume/accelerate part of the switch, which has a spring return, the contacts on the left side of the schematic open, but only as long as you push the switch.
That sends a signal to the cruise control to increase the spped.
I suspect that the center part of the circuit that is obscured is a separate switch contact on the end of the turn signal lever that is only closed when the switch is pushed in, that sends a signal to set the speed.
- Thread starter
- #7
John Robinson
Gone but not forgotten
No I have not had the cruise working. The vacuum is not the problem I have a vacuum tester and the vacuum is on spec. For a while the cruise would work intermittently but then it stopped altogether. I have reset the brake vacuum switch and pulled vacuum on the dump hose and had a friend push the brake pedal. The vacuum released as it should. In my checking my problem out it has become apparent that the cruise stalk switch is bad. Before spending a small fortune for a new cruise lever I want to see if I can make a bypass circuit that will make the cruise work. If so I would feel better about spending the money for a new stalk. Also it could become a tool for others to use. There are so many parts to the cruise that are hard to get at and if this works it could eliminate the need to tear the dash apart to get to them just to see if they work. Or maybe I am just stubborn and dont want to be outsmarted by a butch of wiring and switches.
jmccloud
Well-known member
Cruise Control long shot
When checking the switches in the stalk, do not over look the 'set' switch.
The cruise control module sets the speed upon RELEASE of the set switch. If there is crud in the set switch so that it can not return to 'normal open', the control module will not set the cruise to on.
I speak from experience with two GM cars. One was caked with chocolate brownie residue (confirmed by taste test) and the other switch simply stuck completely closed. Removing the chocolate brownie with a finger nail file restored one switch. The other was not salvageable.
Rather than rigging up a stalk mock-up, could you buy a functional one from a salvage vehicle and simply plug it into the bottom of the column? You could confirm its integrity once you understand the circuit diagram in your pic. And confirm the fault in the existing one.
Good luck and hope this helps.
PS the 'hot dog' symbol simply means that the 'on' and 'R/A' contacts are tied together electrically.
When checking the switches in the stalk, do not over look the 'set' switch.
The cruise control module sets the speed upon RELEASE of the set switch. If there is crud in the set switch so that it can not return to 'normal open', the control module will not set the cruise to on.
I speak from experience with two GM cars. One was caked with chocolate brownie residue (confirmed by taste test) and the other switch simply stuck completely closed. Removing the chocolate brownie with a finger nail file restored one switch. The other was not salvageable.
Rather than rigging up a stalk mock-up, could you buy a functional one from a salvage vehicle and simply plug it into the bottom of the column? You could confirm its integrity once you understand the circuit diagram in your pic. And confirm the fault in the existing one.
Good luck and hope this helps.
PS the 'hot dog' symbol simply means that the 'on' and 'R/A' contacts are tied together electrically.
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