Question: Upgrading the Cam-Save Money????

[krscholz]

I would like to change-out my cam for one with a little more ump. Comp Cams has one that I’d like to install. They offer a kit that includes the timing chain, gears, lifters and springs. Given that my engine only has 61k, I was wondering how necessary it is to replace all the other components or just install the Cam by itself. Not trying to be cheap but money is a real concern for me now and I’m uncertain what to do. I’m looking at the difference between spending $100 vs $300.

 

[minifridge1138]

I'll let someone else talk about lifters and springs.

But I WOULD do the timing chain and gears.
You have to take them off to replace the cam anyway.

If you don't replace them now, and they go bad in 10k miles, you're doing a LOT of work just to get to them again.

Do them now, while they are already off.

 

[Hib Halverson]

DO NOT attempt to install the cam and use the old lifters. Camshaft failure will result.

On an engine with 61K miles, I'd replace the timing chain.

As for new pushrods and springs....stock pushrods are notoriously weak when used with aftermarket cams. The stock valve springs, if they are in very good condition may or maynot be acceptable and it depends on the cam profile itself--if the cam is really aggressive, the stock springs are probably not going to work. If the cam is fairly mild they might but with a lower rev limit.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Not trying to be cheap but money is a real concern for me now

If things are that tight why is making minor upgrades to your toy a priority?

 

[Vette79]

DO NOT attempt to install the cam and use the old lifters. Camshaft failure will result.

On an engine with 61K miles, I'd replace the timing chain.

As for new pushrods and springs....stock pushrods are notoriously weak when used with aftermarket cams. The stock valve springs, if they are in very good condition may or maynot be acceptable and it depends on the cam profile itself--if the cam is really aggressive, the stock springs are probably not going to work. If the cam is fairly mild they might but with a lower rev limit.

After facing this dilemma last year during my top-end rebuild, I completely agree with everything Hib had to say including Mikey! If the money is not there right now to do it right then take your time buying the parts you need or just save. Be patient. I know it's hard but it will payoff in the long run.

 

[krscholz]

After facing this dilemma last year during my top-end rebuild, I completely agree with everything Hib had to say including Mikey! If the money is not there right now to do it right then take your time buying the parts you need or just save. Be patient. I know it's hard but it will payoff in the long run.

Perhaps you guys are correct. If you're not going to do it right then don't do it at all. Thanks much for your comments, have agreat xmas.

 

[Ed's 1970]

Make sure u replace the valve springs, they are such an important part of the equation..All's it takes is 1 bad spring and the engine will not run right. Unless the springs are relatively new (few thousand miles or less), change em out. Comp cams has a nice program u can download for free on their website, camquest 6. It is a very helpful tool to pick the right camshaft.

 

[krscholz]

Ed thanks for the tip. I have seen some of the bulletins from Comp Cams and they seem devoted to helping their customers.

 

[TimAT]

Most cams (and their profiles) are designed to work best with a specific spring. I'm a very big fan of using matched parts. A cam with the correct lifters and the recommended springs will get you a combination that will be reliable. No point (IMHO) if installing a good cam then using less (or more) spring than recommended. too much spring and parts break, not enough and the valve bounce all over. Both kill parts.

 

[krscholz]

Most cams (and their profiles) are designed to work best with a specific spring. I'm a very big fan of using matched parts. A cam with the correct lifters and the recommended springs will get you a combination that will be reliable. No point (IMHO) if installing a good cam then using less (or more) spring than recommended. too much spring and parts break, not enough and the valve bounce all over. Both kill parts.

I'm convinced from the feedback that all parts should be replaced, that is cam, springs, lifters, locks, gears and chain. It more than doubles the cost but the tear down and time is not worth the cost savings. Thanks all for your feedback.

 

[Jack]

I'm convinced from the feedback that all parts should be replaced, that is cam, springs, lifters, locks, gears and chain. It more than doubles the cost but the tear down and time is not worth the cost savings. Thanks all for your feedback.

Although they're very cheap ... you don't need locks ... do replace the remainder. You can get a great deal on summit house brand of cam&lifter kit for under $100 ... see K1102 or K1103 for L48 motor ... shop around for "Z28" springs under $30/set ... timing set shop around also under $30. Stock pushrods OK for Z28 spring pressure but a new "performance" set can be had for under $35. Shop around for everything ... but the summit C&L kits are tough to beat. Also, if you do Not take heads off car ... probably plan to replace old deteriorated o-ring valve stem seals with umbrella shedders ... cheap!