Vader86 What do you think?

[omega1940]

Hey Vader86. Back about 2 weeks ago I posted a request for feedback on rebuilding my upper engine. I blew a head gasket and thought about a few mods. You came back and said I needed to do a whole lot more. Well, I have. All of the following are on order or are in and will be installed on my 88.

Accell S"uperRam Intake
Accell Long-Tube Runners - ported and polished
Ported and polished Pelnum - ports match the runners.
Bosch 24 lb. injectors
Crane Gold Race Roller Rockers
ZZ11 Camshaft (Duration at .050 214-227 Lift .483 .520)
MSD 6AL ignition
Performance Products HEI Coil
Scat 383 Crankshaft, Pistons, Forged Rods, Rings, etc.
Double Roller Timing Chain
New Harmonic Balancer
Centerforce II Dual Friction Clutch, Disc and Pressure plate
Hooker Headers Power Coated
Header bolts, stainless with snap ring to prevent turning out
Heads- ported, bigger valve, seats, etc.
Complete Block retool to 30 thousands
8.5 mm wire set
New Bosch +4 plugs
Net brackets for Compressor and alternator (both were broken)

I already have a 52 mm throttle body, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, K&N with open face housing, Flowmasters.

I would be interested in anything that you think is missing. I appreciate your candor in explaining the problem of doing the top end without making modifications to the heads and remaining parts of the engine.

I am hoping that with 383 cu.in. and all the mods that I can get 350-360 h.p. I intend to get the car dyno'd when it is running again.

Next come the brakes!

Mike

 

[vader86]

Looks great to me, nothing really stands out as missing. Id suggest you try ARP bolts everywhere (maybe have the main caps splayed too), Clevite 77 bearings, be sure to get Titanium retainers on the heads.

I dont think youll have a problem getting 350hp out of that, the cam is big enough and the cubes help out quite a bit.

Good luck with it

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

Id suggest you try ARP bolts everywhere (maybe have the main caps splayed too), Clevite 77 bearings, be sure to get Titanium retainers on the heads.

With the investment your making you cain´t afford not to use ARP bolts and splay the main caps.

You should come out well over 350HP.

All those cubes with the long runners is gona give you about a quarter ton of torque. That is my kind of engine, I would be proud to own it!!! :BOW

 

[Eagle85C4]

Your Welcome....

 

[omega1940]

Rebuild 88-Clevite 77, ARP Bolts?

Thanks again to both of you. I looked up "Clevite 77" on a search and found their website. I sent an email to my engine builder to price them. The bearings look like they are a lot more durable than any stock bearings.

Hate to show my ignorance again, but I it looks like you are suggesting I replace the bearings which hold the crankshaft in place. I'm not clear what "main bearing" or "thrust bearing" are, but I assume my engine builder will know all of this. Each connecting rod has bearings as well doesn't it? Can you let me know what the names of each bearing are/is so I can talk about this halfway intelligently?

Also, how does one "splay the caps?" The caps are what hold the bearnings in place on the crankshaft assembly, right? Also, what are "titanium retainers." I can't find any reference to retainers in my Haynes manual. And finally, what are "ARP bolts?"

Either of you have a suggestion on where I could see a layout of a small block Chevy engine with the various components.

The Clevite website showed the price for the bearings at around $50 each. Do I need 4 or 5 of these. Are they the same bearing for each end of the crank?

After going to all this expense, I certainly don't want a crummy bearing to break down the system.

Any help on this?

Mike

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

ARP = Automotive Racing Products http://www.arp-bolts.com/

Splay the caps, the bolts that hold the ¨caps¨ or crank shaft bearing retainers are put in at a angle, normally about 20º the current school of though is that this is stronger than ¨4 bolt¨ caps because less metal is removed from the block .

Retainers are the pieces that hold the valve springs on the valves. Titanium ones are much stronger than steel. Also available from ARP.

Main bearings hold the crank shaft in and the connecting rods have similar looking bearings in the ¨Big End¨ these bearings are usually call inserts by US mechanics, shells by British mechanics, and the Hungarian mechanics call them Veryslickmetalthingsthatyouputbetweenthecrookedthingyandthepistonhandle. No I am not joking; they call an O ring a ¨roundrubberobjectwithaholeinit¨.

A thrust bearing is a bearing that can take pressure from the side like the clutch throw-out bearing.

You should be able to buy the bearings as a complete set but I have not checked their website.

I assume my engine builder will know all of this

If he does not put all of your toys in a box and run home ASAP.

You are going to have one sweat motor when you finish.