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What to 'make sure of' when shopping for a high quality paint job ???

  • Thread starter Thread starter SwaveDave
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SwaveDave

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Im not far away from needing a complete paint job for my 1970 Coupe. Im told to make sure they go all the way down to the GelCoat. What other important things do i need to make sure of/insist on , when asking for a Paint Job quote ?? Obviously getting references on other Vettes done is important , as is how long theyve been around.....but what about the actual routine(s) to ensure i get a good quality paint job ?? I dont mind paying more if the workmanship/materials justifies it.

(Please list specifically if you could). Thanks.

Dave
 
Thanks D for the info.

Im trying to formulate a list of questions to ask and get answered by Paint Shops when i start my shopping ; would a few questions to ask be :
1. Do u use Lacquer or Urethane ?
2. How many times will you sand ?
3. How many coats of base and clearcoat will you apply ?
4. How many Corvettes have you painted ?
5. What is your guarantee against cracking and orange peeling ?


Im a dino when it comes to Body Painting , so please, bear with me. Im just trying to accurately weigh up ones method of painting. Ive seen some really nice looking paint jobs at car shows...but, does that necessarily mean that what is underneath was done correctly/well ??

Thanks, Dave
 
D, Thanks for educating me. Here some things im wondering about :

a . Which would you go for : Lacqer or Urethane ?

b. How many coats should i expect for a good paint job ...how many is 'adequate' ?

c. Typically....how long would a Paint Shop give a guarantee for...and, against what ?


Thanks, Dave
 
D, Thanks again.

Just had the pics added to my signature by Bud on the forum . (Thanks Bud !). Pics of car look great cause i had just put glaze on it ; up close...ive got stress cracks on each fender and a couple spider webs on the hood. Ill let it go a while longer before i have a complete paint job done, but, within the next couple years i can see myself popping for it.

I thought most everyone goes with urethane paint now. Would like to know the pros and cons, in your opinion.

Was also wondering why you wouldnt go with clear coat for protection ??

Thanks D. Im learning here....

Dave
 
After my 62 being painted 6 times and several other pieces repainted a few things to look for would be. The so called heavy coats or several coats make a good paint job, is really not correct. Actually the less you can use is actually better. Heavy paint will crack. First the finish must be perfect before placing the color on. I have heard that some of the Vettes get knocked down as too smooth as that was not the way they came from the factory. I know the finish of my 62 was horrible. Now it`s as smooth as silk. Block sanding after block sanding did that. But thats what I wanted. Not good for originality but great on street rods and best paint awards. I`m also into street rods. Which brings me to the point of chosing a painter. The best jobs are generally performed by those that do the street rods and take all the Autorama "Best Paint" awards. Lacquer goes away and the newer paints are more durable. The 62 now has the new urethane clear coat process and is holding up very good for the last 8 years. But it was completely stripped-down. And thats what I would recommend. Either type of paint will look good when first finished. Just remember that if there is a scratch in the primers, there will also be scratches in the finish coat. See what the painter does at the edges. Specifically the hood and doors. If those are fininshed he`s probably the man for you. Also look at his previous jobs under the ceiling lights for ripples. There are a lot of so called high dollar painters doing poor jobs trying to match the good painters in price but not quality. :) :m
 
Heres my thoughts on this,although some will disagree.For the best results its good to find someone that will give you a rough estimate only and work on an actual time basis.Dont pressure the shop on time or money but let them give you a running tab on how things are going once a month or so.
On the actual job itself it needs to be stripped and dissassembled to paint and buff then reassembled.Ive done more c3s than anything ,if you want some more specific details on ins and outs let me know.
 
Paintdaddy, put me in the ballpark, what price should i expect to pay for a base/clear ,bodywork done , shiny stuff removed, and a basic wet sand done? i am a few months from paint,but doing my homework now so i can be a better consumer


thanks


robin
 
It depends on different things.Ive done more c3s than any other one type of car.I always try to encourage to do certain things during the paint process .For example,the best way to do a good job is to disassemble the the car to paint it.Therefore this is also a good time to replace door pins and bushings and all weatherstripping.In doing it this way ,a good job usually runs around 5-7k.5k if the owner puts it bak together and 7k if I put it back together including new light lenses,emblems,doorhandles and chrome.
 

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