What type paint best for 67 coupe?

[kobi67]

This winter I am having my car painted (sunfire yellow). Doing the body-off gig. My painter suggest basecoat/clear coat, which I think will look nice. Then I got looking at my NCRS Judging guide. I assume they want single stage lacquer..
My choice would be the nice rich basecoat/clearcoat, but will I be hurting the value of the car by doing so?? Or just go with a single stage paint?? Your thoughts???

 

[John Mcgraw]

It kind of depends on what your intentions are for the car. If you are planning on having the car judged, then BC/CC will take major point hits. If judging is in your future, either Lacquer or single stage urethane, applied to emulate lacquer, is probably your best choice. I think that a car built primarily built for judging should use lacquer. That way you never have to worry about the potential point loss from urethane paint. If you never intend to have the car judged, then BC/CC offers the most durable, best looking paint surface available. Lacquer is fairly easy to chip, but on the upside, lacquer is very easy to repair and touch-up, but not so with BC/CC.


Regards, John McGraw

 

[Sting Ray]

Kobi,


Funny you should ask this, in the Latest "Resorer" there is a article from Roy Sinor, that states you would lose 50% of the originality 45 pts if the if the "material is not consistent with factory application, and the apperance is not consistent with factory application methods.:

Tom

 

[Dave65]

My 65 Top Flighted in September. I has Acrylic Urethane mixed with clear which was required to get the metallics to lay correctly (Nassau Blue). I took a 22 point hit (50% of 45 points). Not the end of the world.

Dave

 

[Loren Smith]

Kobi,


Funny you should ask this, in the Latest "Resorer" there is a article from Roy Sinor, that states you would lose 50% of the originality 45 pts if the if the "material is not consistent with factory application, and the apperance is not consistent with factory application methods.:

Tom

I read this too; however, the portion you quoted results in a 100% loss. To get 50% credit, the appearance has to be consistent with factory application methods. Which begs the question, what constitutes an appearance which is "consistent with factory methods"?

 

[paintdaddy]

If you do decide to go with lacquer ,it is hard to find .The only plac eI know that has it is www.autocolorlibrary.com .If you ask a body shop they will tell you it is out lawed but it is not its just limited for use on restoration and specialty vehicles.

 

[JohnZ]

I read this too; however, the portion you quoted results in a 100% loss. To get 50% credit, the appearance has to be consistent with factory application methods. Which begs the question, what constitutes an appearance which is "consistent with factory methods"?

"Consistent with factory application methods" essentially means that there should not be overspray on parts that were originally applied after the car was painted (weatherstrips, trim and fasteners, chassis, etc.), and areas that were originally not buffed/polished (hood and deck gutters, door facings, body opening jambs, underside of the deck lid, etc.) should not exhibit any gloss. Clearcoat is easily detected, but if the rules above are followed, you'll only lose 50% of the originality points (22). If you have clearcoat and overspray is present where it shouldn't be and the originally un-buffed areas are all glossy, you lose it all.

 

[Loren Smith]

Thanks, John. So basically, an obvious BC/CC car could conceiveably still pick up 50% of the originality points, if shot the way you describe? And what if it was overrestored (i.e. no overpeel)? Would that be another 20% off, meaning the max recovery was 30% of the originality points?

Finally, if shot in a single stage urethane with no clear, "consistent with factory application methods", could it conceiveably garner 100% of the originality points, if it "appears" to look like lacquer? Thanks again.

 

[Loren Smith]

Also - did the inside of the trunk or the underside of the trunk lid also avoid the General's buffer?

 

[John Mcgraw]

Absolutely,

Only the exterior panels of the body were buffed.

Regards, John McGraw

 

[JohnZ]

Thanks, John. So basically, an obvious BC/CC car could conceiveably still pick up 50% of the originality points, if shot the way you describe? And what if it was overrestored (i.e. no overpeel)? Would that be another 20% off, meaning the max recovery was 30% of the originality points?

Finally, if shot in a single stage urethane with no clear, "consistent with factory application methods", could it conceiveably garner 100% of the originality points, if it "appears" to look like lacquer? Thanks again.

Paint judging can be quite subjective, but yes, a BC/CC car that's had the proper attention to flattening in the right areas can get by with only a 50% deduction, and a single-stage urethane car, properly sprayed and flattened, can "appear" to be lacquer.

 

[Loren Smith]

Thanks, Paintdaddy, for the paint link, and John, for the tips. I want to have my 59 painted Snowcrest White in a single stage urethane (for durability) applied to look as close as possible to lacquer. Linking further into the site provided by Paintdaddy, which product would be the best to use for this purpose?:

http://autocolorlibrary.com/cmg/cmg.html

I will have a professional with a paint booth do the painting, so toxicity is not an issue (I'm not shooting this stuff in my garage, etc.). Thanks for your help.

 

[John Mcgraw]

DCC (Concept), the best single stage urethane on the market in my opinion!


Regards, John McGraw

 

[Loren Smith]

Sounds good. Thanks, John.

 

[paintdaddy]

John is right Dcc is the good and although Ive never used it the single stage DG is supposed to be good to.Seeing that you are going white it should be easy to get that at your local paint store.I have a hard time getting the exact original color in Dcc or any of the modern paints.Sometimes they will give you an alternate color which means its the closest match of your color on a newer car.For instance the last 68 corvette I did was Dark green but if I wanted to use a modern urethane paint I had to chose the closest alternate which was a 94 isuzu color.Checked with the owner and he was fine with it.Now thats dealing with my local paint store.The website I posted claims they will get your exact color in what ever paint system you like.But like I said being white your local paint store should be able to mix it for you.

 

[Loren Smith]

Thanks, PD. I'm just worried that my paint chip from the 59 Chevy Paint chip package is too small for the local people to get a read on, and/or the chip has faded over the years.

 

[ChuckG]

FWIW....I just had my 63 painted. Used single stage urethane...Riverside Red. The painter used PPG products. The car looks GREAT.

I do believe that PPG has the formulas for the old paints. My painter called...got the Riverside Red formula....mixed a quart....and it matched the original Riverside lacquer DEAD ON THE MONEY. Chuck

 

[paintdaddy]

Thanks, PD. I'm just worried that my paint chip from the 59 Chevy Paint chip package is too small for the local people to get a read on, and/or the chip has faded over the years.

some of the times they will have the mix formula in their database ,ecspecially solid colors and ecspecially white.Even if they dont have the formula in their database for their main line of paint ,it will probably have an alternate which will be a close match if not exact.Remember its hard to keep coming up with new colors after over 100 years so sometimes a red that was from the 60s may be the same color red from the 90s with out realizing it.The older paint formulas are usually only offered in the older paint lines that arent offered any more or are scarce.That website I posted claims they have paint formulas for any paint line,but I actually think they mix them in old paint lines and mix to match in a newer paint line.Trust me it gets so confusing sometimes.Its not bad when your trying to do an over all but if your trying to match a paint due to damage its a pain.I use to try to keep my shelves stocked with one line of paint to simplify things but anymore I have to stock it with two or three lines because of different lines matching different colors.It turns my brain mush.

 

[Loren Smith]

Thanks. I guess I really should set aside a quart or two for future repairs.