Which Pushrods?

[Vette79]

I will be installing COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kit CCA-K12-238-2 from Summit...


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-K12-238-2&view=1&N=700+

Which pushrods should I go with? There are two different lengths and diameters.

 

[Crimson Thunder]

Call the Comp Cams help line.I think it is 1-888-cam-help.Beware they will probably try to sell you valve springs also.Good luck.

 

[daveintexas]

The summit tech guys are quite knowledgeable, and can tell you if your stock pushrods will work fine, or if you will need something better. If you want to change them, they can help you with that. Good luck!

 

[fine69]

I will be installing COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kit CCA-K12-238-2 from Summit...


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-K12-238-2&view=1&N=700+

Which pushrods should I go with? There are two different lengths and diameters.

Jeff,

I installed Summit brand pushrods (+.100, 5/16" diameter, 7.894" length). I would bet yours are the same. Looking at my old receipt, the catalog # was SUM-G6400100.

Good luck.... remember to use lots of moly lubricant, and to properly break-in the new cam (i.e., do not stop the engine for approx 20 minutes after initial start-up, etc.).

Have a Merry Christmas -- maybe we'll finally meet up this year!

Ralph

 

[Hib Halverson]

With that camshaft, I'd use the Comp PN 7372. Avoid the cheap 7812.

Do not use the stock valve springs. Use the spring Comp recommends for that cam, the 981 and if you're going to run the car hard, I'd go to Comp's "premium choice" for that cam, the 986. Each spring takes a different retainer so buy the one that goes with the spring.

Install the cam using Comp's prelube. Don't be afraid to slop that stuff on.

On breakin. Use Comp's engine oil additive along with either Valvoline 30 Race Oil or a good 10W30 synthetic such as Mobil 1 or, better yet, Red Line.

You MUST run the engine at fast idle (the speed will be specified by Comp) for 20 minutes. DO NOT let the engine idle. If you're doing this with a new motor, you must prelube the oil system and pre set the ignition timing with lots of advance so it starts immediately. have the timing light hooked up and once the engine is running back it off a bit.

Position a big fan in front of the car to keep cooling air flowing through the radiator.

After the 20 minutes, shut the motor off. Check for leaks then change the oil filter. Fire it up again and now you can let it idle while you set the ign. timing to the OE spec.

After that, you should be good to go.

 

[Vette79]

Thanks guys. Hib, I am going to use the valve springs that came with the kit. Ralph, does that length seem right for the pushrods? So, I need to purchase Comp's engine oild additive?

 

[fine69]

Thanks guys. Hib, I am going to use the valve springs that came with the kit. Ralph, does that length seem right for the pushrods? So, I need to purchase Comp's engine oild additive?

Jeff,

This is a link to the pushrods I used: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G6400100&autoview=sku

Okay for the prep for the cam installation...

Go to your local GM dealer and pick up a quart of GM EOS Assembly Lube. Also, get a tube of moly lube.

When removing the old cam, remember to remove the fuel pump. The fuel pushrod can prevent removal of the old cam.... also, when re-installing the fuel pump, you can hold the push rod in place by replacing the 3/8 bolt with a longer bolt (on the block in front of the fuel pump) - just be sure to put the short bolt back into place before turning the engine!

Now for the oil... be sure to drain the old oil and replace with oil that has a high zinc content (you MUST be sure that the oil used for the cam break-in contains high amounts of zinc) -- be sure to change your filter too, of course. I used 20W-50 VR1 Valvoline Racing oil (Advance Auto). I did not use a synthetic oil as I understand these are not a good choice for the break-in because synthetics are too slick and do NOT allow enough friction --- which is critical for the break-in and mating between the lifters/camshaft.

Since you are not doing an entire rebuild or changing the oil pump, you do not need to worry about priming.

When installing your new cam, you should coat each lobe with the EOS assembly lube, and copious amounts of moly lube. After all items were in place, I poured the EOS assembly lube directly over the cam, lifters, etc. (this is good stuff).

The initial start-up and proper break-in period is critical... lots of folks have ruined their brand new cam by not allowing a proper break-in.
There are slight variations of the process, but they're mostly the same... just don't start/stop the engine, and don't let it run at normal idle for the first 30 minutes. For my initial start-up, I kept the idle fast at approx 1500 RPMs. I then kept it running for about 30 minutes, varying the idle between 1500-3000 RPMs. Also, remember that you may need to add more coolant after startup, because the water jackets will likely need to be filled... happened to me, and almost overheated!

Follow these steps and you should be a happy-camper.

Ralph

 

[Vette79]

Well, I sent an email to COMPCams and Summit to get recommendations. I thought I would ask you guys at CAC first. Thanks for your response Ralph. During the first thirty minutes of break-in you realize you have a leak or a problem is it recommended to continue with the break-in or shut down?

 

[fine69]

Well, I sent an email to COMPCams and Summit to get recommendations. I thought I would ask you guys at CAC first. Thanks for your response Ralph. During the first thirty minutes of break-in you realize you have a leak or a problem is it recommended to continue with the break-in or shut down?

The short answer is, yes shut down. That being said, during my break-in, one of the heater hoses was loose and began spewing scalding water. I didn't want to shut it down so, I used a long screwdriver to tighten the hose clamp... probably not the best way to do things.

 

[JohnZ]

That's why it's best to do the first-fire with two people - one keeps it running, and the other deals with any issues that arise; keep commonly-used tools (and a fire extinguisher) within reach.

 

[Vette79]

Sounds good. I have decided to also install a new fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod. Thinking of going with the roller tip pushrod. Good Idea or not? I'm also installing a new harmonic balancer and pulleys. Any recommendations? Might as well replace everything I touch on this project. Does anyone know the trick to getting a new hot air choke tubing in the exhaust port of the Performer Intake Manifold?

 

[fine69]

Sounds good. I have decided to also install a new fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod. Thinking of going with the roller tip pushrod. Good Idea or not? I'm also installing a new harmonic balancer and pulleys. Any recommendations? Might as well replace everything I touch on this project. Does anyone know the trick to getting a new hot air choke tubing in the exhaust port of the Performer Intake Manifold?

Jeff,

Never heard of roller pushrods, but I am familiar with roller type lifters and roller tip rocker arms.

I used the Crane Cams roller tip rockers. They did not work well for me --- they kept "slipping". I went back with heavy duty, traditional style, 1.5 ratio rockers - work fine.

I also replaced the torsion damper, belts, and did replace one bent pulley --- all stock style.

It's funny, a common fact that I keep learning is that stock is usually the way to go. Don't waste $$ on a fancy fuel pump, damper, spark plugs, etc.


Ralph

 

[Vette79]

Here is the fuel pump roller pushrod: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-4609&autoview=sku and here is the pulley sytem I'm looking at. I need a three groove pulley system and couldn't find this as stock anywhere yet: http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=26352&dept_id=1220 Here is the Harmonic Balancer: http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=22920&dept_id=1308 And here are the pushrods: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S29C17DM9771166414821f~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000050G I would love to know if these parts would work and be ideal...

 

[fine69]

Here is the fuel pump roller pushrod: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-4609&autoview=sku and here is the pulley sytem I'm looking at. I need a three groove pulley system and couldn't find this as stock anywhere yet: http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=26352&dept_id=1220 Here is the Harmonic Balancer: http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=22920&dept_id=1308 And here are the pushrods: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050g~Z5Z5Z5ABVGO~P139.00~~~~S29C17DM9771166414821f~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000050G I would love to know if these parts would work and be ideal...

Jeff,

Just my opinion, and from experience... Unless, you're building an engine for the racetrack, and for the money, you will not benefit from the roller fuel pushrod, the high performance balancer, or the roller lifter pushrods.

Dude, I love Summit Racing, Jegs, Ecklers, etc., and I have gotten caught up in the thought, "... if it's good enough for a racing engine, then it MUST be great for my street rod..." Often, it's alot of hype; and I'm embarassed that I've wasted more $$ than I'd like to admit. Save your money... really, how much true racing are we gonna be doing?

For example,
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...er=6005202&Description=Harmonic+Balancer+Assy

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...PartNumber=PR1&Description=Fuel+Pump+Push+Rod

Your hard-earned $$ could be used elsewhere.... I know I sound like a stick in the mud.

Ralph

 

[Vette79]

Stick in the Mud? Not at all! This is what I need to know. I'll go with the stock balancer, fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod. When I remove the pulley system I could bead blast it and then paint. Much $$ could be saved. You have a quad with an electric choke. Did you purchase it like that?

 

[fine69]

You have a quad with an electric choke. Did you purchase it like that?

Well, I got rid of the factory Q-jet for an Edelbrock 650 cfm AVS, and then decided to go back to the Q-jet. I opted to go with a 1980 Q-jet with the electric choke.... I totally suck at adjusting it, but I have it set where it runs great after a long warm up period. One day, I'll study the manual closely and set the choke correctly!

 

[Vette79]

PM sent. My only question now is "Pushrods".

 

[JohnZ]

You don't need the roller fuel pump pushrod - that's only for roller cams ground on steel billets.

The right way to ensure you have the correct length pushrods is to use a pushrod length checking tool (Moroso, etc. - simple drop-on plastic device) and an adjustable "checking" pushrod; when you have the "checking" pushrod adjusted properly with the tool, measure its length and order your pushrods. Many variables can affect pushrod/rocker geometry, and the checking tool accomodates them.

 

[Vette79]

Thanks John. Summit as well as other CAC Members tend to believe that stock pushrod replacement is what will be needed. Just trying to get the dimensions out of someone so I can order them now.

 

[Vette79]

OK, I've had several different suggestions on Pushrods with this COMPCams Kit (CCA-K12-238-2) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-K12-238-2&autoview=sku and my 79 L-48. Everyone agree's with 5/16 Diameter but Length is still in question. Summit had no solid suggestion and still waiting for COMPCams to reply. Here is what I think I am settling with: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-7372-16&autoview=sku Any other suggestions?