Help! Will Start, Won't Run...

[Koolbalsey]

Hi all, I'm new to the site and in need of some ;help.

I have a 76' Stingray L:48 that I have been taking care of for the past 3 years. Been able to hop in it, turn key, start and run like a charm all that time. Its been garage kept for the last 8 years.

I hoped in, turned the key to run, and first thing I noticed was the tach jumped to 2600. Turned the key to off and took it out and the tach stil stuck at that position. Thats the worst of my worries right now :W.

Put the key back in it and tried to start it and it turns over, constant but won't fire up and run. Put a test light on the bat wire to the distributor and got juice, later put a volt meter on it and registering at 23.4 volts. Then checked if I had spark thru the spark plug, none.
Changed the cap, rotor and ignition moduler. Same thing :bash. Then I went and bought a new Distributor, MSD Street Fire. (Stil same wires and plugs mind you.)

Now I have spark, and stil get the same consistant start but won't fire up and run. So I put it on top dead center on comp stroke and reseated the distributor (had to move that oil screw to get it to lign up right, or would of fired on #8 first.) :W

I've checked the fuel filter (stil good) and carb is getting gas. Could the timing gear of sliped a tooth? I have no clue what to check now. I did not mark where the wires were before I started all and just went off of my chiltons manual. Any suggestions?

 

[Koolbalsey]

what should I look into checking?

 

[c31980]

forget about the tach now .. i think ur Distributor is not set correctly to #1 best way to remove number 1 spark plaug
rotate the engine clockwise with finger on the spark plug hole untel u feel air pressure or by inserting a piston stop tool or a screw driver and whatch your palancer mark
note that the palancer will allain with timing mark 2 times one for exhust and one for
comp stroke ,,

another thing also check all spark wire and change your plugs ,

 

[Koolbalsey]

Went to advanced today and bought a new set of wires and plugs. Double checked to make sure still getting spark and once again reset the distributor. Now its sits on tdc with the rotor button in line with were the #1 tower would be with the cap.

Could it have jumped a tooth on the timing gear and chain possibly? I wouldn't think so with it just siting and tring to start, but could it? Or should I be checking saftey switches?

It is a 4-speed and I can turn the key with out pushing the clutch in. Is that normal?

Thanks for the help

 

[Koolbalsey]

Ohh and btw, when is your tour up bro? I was in OIF V May 07-Jul 08.

 

[Koolbalsey]

Ok...I've also moved the wires as if it was 180 out and stil get the same thing. Turns over all day long and won't run .

Also something else that I noticed was, when I was on tdc, the timing mark was below the timing guide by about 2 inches, does this mean any thing?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Also something else that I noticed was, when I was on tdc, the timing mark was below the timing guide by about 2 inches, does this mean any thing?

I got your PM.

The above post might be very significant. First, throw away your Chilton's book. It's already got you into trouble.

1) put cyl #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. This means you will need to remove the driver's side valve cover to confirm that both valves are closed and that you're not 180 degrees out- on the exhaust stroke. Since your balancer seems to have an indication error, don't trust the marks. Get or make a piston position indicator (screws into the spark plug hole) and determine exact TDC. Mark this position on the balancer if there really is an error.

2) Remove the rotor cap. The rotor arm will be pointing at one of the 8 towers. This will be #1 cyl, make sure #1 plug wire is installed in this tower.

3) If required move the other seven wires to their correct position.

4) manually rotate the engine just slightly so that the timing mark is now pointing at the recommended initial firing position for your engine (usually a few degrees BTDC).

5) with your timing light attached and with distributor hold down bolt slightly loosened, turn the ignition to on, but not to 'start'. Rotate the distributor housing back and forth with your hand to ensure that the timing gun fires.

6) The point at which the gun fires as you rotate the housing clockwise is the spot where you want to it to sit for initial timing. Tighten the retaining bolt and fire up the car.

7) do the final timing adjustment as per GM procedure.

 

[Koolbalsey]

I'll give it a shot, thanks

 

[black_81_vette]

How does it sound when your turning it over? is it even? or does it pick up speed then sound like it tries to slow down? A quick and dirty way of checking the timing chain is to pull the dist cap off and watch the rotor for movement while you move the crank back and forth a inch or so in either direction. If the chain is somewhat decent you shouldent be able to move the crank much at all and the rotor should be begin to move.If you can go either dirrection say a inch or more and it dont move its most likely junk. Does it have low miles say around 60k? if so and it hasent been apart GM used a stupid nylon toothed aluminum gear that were destoned to fail.Wich most of them did.

 

[Koolbalsey]

Thanks man, i will just replace the gear and chain. Its all org. never been changed. Will start there.

 

[GerryLP]

Ballsey,

The timing mark error can also be caused by a slipped dampener ring (the rubbber part that forms the outter diameter of the vibration dampener/balancer.

Veethead Mickey's steps will get you on the road. Replacing the timing chain (at this time) will just get you more time under the hood.

Usually, with cars that have been running fine, what goes wrong is something simple and not involving major maintenance or components. I have never seen a timing chain slip on Chevy V8 before.

One has to K.I.S.S. The problem (Keep It Simple Stupid). [that's what the acronym stands for].

I mean no disrespect by the way. I forget to "KISS" problems with Gail all the time. However, once I catch myself thinking that something major has happened, I remind myself to, "keep it simple, stupid".

 

[twoseater]

As GerryLP indicated, sometime its the simple things. Have you looked at your spark plugs and/or replaced them?

 

[black_81_vette]

Ok when you try to start it does it even act like its trying to start? backfire or anything like that? do you have a strong spark at the plugs? kinda sounds like no spark, or weak spark.

 

[GerryLP]

Balsey,

Check for spark by placing a metal rod on the connector for the number 1 wire
(at the spark plug end) and place the rod end close to an engine surface to which the spark can jump.

If spark is present, then check for fuel presence by disconnecting the fuel line from the carb and placing some rags and a container (or something small enough to catch the fuel), and place the #1 connector back on the spark plug.
THIS IS IMPORTANT: DISCONNECT THE "BAT" cable from the distributor, to minimize the chance for the engine to start. If your engine were to start, this could increase the chances for a fire because of the open fuel delivery line.

All you'll be doing is checking for Spark and the fuel pump to be delivering fuel to the carb.

Good luck!

 

[Rodney Gold]

The fact your rev counter jumped to 2600 is odd?
and how come you have 23 volts from the battery?
Is the dizzy a points type ?

 

[z34ls1]

Great suggestions so far.
If you have electronic Ignition (HEI) then you may want to check the Electrical piece right at the base of the distributor. I thinks it's called a modulator ???? something. I had one of these go out and it created an irratic spark. I've also never seen a SBC jump a tooth. The fact that your timing mark is not lined up on the timing chain cover tells me something has been replaced down there or you don't have #1 TDC.
Also when you get #1 TDC, standing at the front of the motor #1 Spark Plug should be closest to you and to the right of center, #8 should also be to the front, but to the left side of center. Make sure your going clockwise with the wires. 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2

I hope that Helps.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Also when you get #1 TDC, standing at the front of the motor #1 Spark Plug should be closest to you and to the right of center, #8 should also be to the front, but to the left side of center.

This only applies when the factory stock wiring positions are being used AND if the rotor has been prepositioned to be pointing at the stock #1 wire position, AND assuming that the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke on #1.

Otherwise the OP will be no further ahead, possibly more confused. That's where the Chilton manual gets many people into trouble.

 

[z34ls1]

This only applies when the factory stock wiring positions are being used AND if the rotor has been prepositioned to be pointing at the stock #1 wire position, AND assuming that the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke on #1.

Otherwise the OP will be no further ahead, possibly more confused. That's where the Chilton manual gets many people into trouble.

Agreed. I never seen the owner say the motor was modified. I ASSumed.