Brake job

[A1Avette79]

'79 started making funny squeaking noises at different times from the rear end. At first i thought it might be shocks/springs but it doesn't seem to happen consistantly at obvious suspension times like hitting a bump or when i rock the car or push down on the back end. Sometimes it squeaks when i back up (with or without applying the brakes). It has started happening when going forward at slow speeds as well. I don't know if it happens at higher speeds - too much road noise. Brakes work well although i did have to add a small amount of fluid to the master cylinder last month. I can't see any signs of fluid leaks anywhere. No pulling to left or right during braking. No virbration in steering wheel. I replaced all four axel shaft U Joints about six months ago and all rubber bushings were replaced front and rear last year. I have not replaced Drive Shaft U Joint.
Can the parking brake make this type noise? I never use it except when working on the car on jack stands.
The car's maintenance records show that the calipers/pads were replaced before I bought it five years ago. The car was mostly garage kept with very little road time before I bought it. Since then I have driven it every day - mostly in stop and go traffic unfortunately. I've put 30K on it since I got it. Although the brakes work fine it would seems that they should be close to needing work. Could they be causing the noise?
If i replace the pads any suggestions on type. I see alot of different types online: Organic AC Delco, Semi metallic, Ferro Carbon etc. I don't race but as i said most of my driving is city stop and go. Pads range in price from $40 for a set of 4 to $180 for a set. Thats a big difference.

 

[TimAT]

Typical parks brake. If a spring or link breaks it can rub at odd time and make noise.
As far as pads go, I use plain old Wagner pads. Probably not the cheapest, but not $180 a set either. For a driver, it just dosen't make any sense to put a high dollar set of pads on that eats rotors.

 

[A1Avette79]

thanks Tim. That makes good sense.

 

[bb2kksy]

Had the same thing happen to me last year. Took the offedfing wheel off , removed rotor and several rusted pieces to the e-brake return spring fell out. Replaced same spring with new stainless steel one. Found out which side it was by touching the rim on the rear, the hot on is the bad side.

 

[A1Avette79]

Thanks, I was looking at Eckler's prices for ebrake parts. It doesn't seem like it would be a costly repair.

 

[bb2kksy]

The springs can be replaced, with some difficulty, after the rotor is removed. The job will test your patience.

 

[TimAT]

The springs can be replaced, with some difficulty, after the rotor is removed. The job will test your patience.

ANYTHING to do with the parking brake will test you. Especially while it's still on the car. ad Getting the rotor off can be half the battle. IF it's never been off, it's still riveted to the spindle. Drill the rivets out, pull the rotor, and there's still not quite enough room between the spindle and the parts. By no means impossible to do, but it will be a test.

I got the complete stainless steel kit (except for shoes) from VB&P.

 

[A1Avette79]

The springs can be replaced, with some difficulty, after the rotor is removed. The job will test your patience.

Ugh. With this car "testing my patience" is a weekly occurance. Will the system need to be bled after changing the springs and shoes?

 

[herminator]

Ugh. With this car "testing my patience" is a weekly occurance. Will the system need to be bled after changing the springs and shoes?

Yes, because you will need to remove the caliper which have a solid brake line which precludes you from simply loosening and moving it. I also recommend you purchase a inexpensive tool to R&R the shoe retainers. Especially since you are doing this job with the trailing arms on the car, it will make the job easier.

 

[herminator]

ANYTHING to do with the parking brake will test you. Especially while it's still on the car. ad Getting the rotor off can be half the battle. IF it's never been off, it's still riveted to the spindle. Drill the rivets out, pull the rotor, and there's still not quite enough room between the spindle and the parts. By no means impossible to do, but it will be a test.

I got the complete stainless steel kit (except for shoes) from VB&P.

Are you suggestingreplacing the springs without removing the shoes? If so he wouldn't need the tool I suggested but seems like it would be easier to take the shoes off?

In either case you need a good drill and good drill bits for the rotors!

 

[TimAT]

My thought is that since you're in there replacing springs, it's a really good time to replace the shoes and anything else that is accessible- like the cables. I read that the stainless steel shoes that were around at the time I did mine were not exactly the same "round" as the ID of the rotor, so I opted for standard shoes. (They were also less $$). I replaced all the hardware, shoes and the cables, new braided flex lines, rebuilt the calipers and flushed the system. There was so much goo in the calipers I replaced the master cylinder too.

When you put the rotors back on, check the runout. Too much and it causes the pads to push back into the calipers and can make them suck air.