Be sure the battery cables are clean and tight, it would be a good idea to remove them and check. It sounds like a ground problem--not the ECM to me. If the battery cables are clean/tight--use your FSM to find the ground points and be sure they are clean/tight.
The pulsator was a sort of dampner---the idea was to make the pump quieter---many people remove them--that's likely what happened in your case---the fact that you don't have one is not your problem.
I've always removed #1 spark plug and either w/remote starter switch connected OR have someone bump the starter/engine over a little at a time and when I feel pressure/compression on cylinder #1----I manually move the balancer/crankshaft to point at 0 degrees/TDC. At this point you should be...
I'm guessing the difference would be in the amount of exhaust gases that are metered to be reburned--in order to meet our EPA/emissions standards versus the Canadian version of the EPA. The EGR would need to open regardless when vacuum is applied. EGR lowers combustion temps which would also...
Use your VOM set to amp scale--remove a battery cable ( I usually do negative)---hook one VOM lead to battery terminal and the other to the loose cable completing the circuit---wait a few minutes for any ECUs to go to "sleep" if you have less than a 45-50 milliamp draw you'll be ok. Clocks and...
IF.. you've determined the fuel pump is bad....it is in the tank..access the sender/pump beneath gas door from the top...you won't need to be under the car at all.
The contacts which fail in the Denso are 66-82756 and 66-82759 and the plungers ARE usually reusable--but i have seen a couple that due to arcing between the contacts and plunger--the plunger ended up being pitted and burnt to the point it wasn't serviceable. The kit in the link from "toptechX6"...
If you have C68 system and auto trans--should be right side/rear of engine compartment on inner fender--two brown wires-one green wire and one green/white wire.
If you're sure you have the correct M.C.---try loosening the MC and moving it away from the brake booster to see if that also frees up the brakes---it's possible someone may have adjusted the pushrod behind the MC trying to "correct" a low brake pedal problem--that is another possibility which...
1958 Chevy 2 dr.Delray W/modded 348c.i. most people go...Huh?? when I say Delray
1966 Caprice w/factory 4 speed & 327c.i.
1963 Merc. Comet 2 dr
1962 Renault Dauphine
1963 Chevy Biscayne 4dr w/283
1962 Plymouth Savoy 4 dr
1966 Ford PU 352/4 speed
1978 Plymouth Horizon
1979 Buick Regal
1987...
The opti and the shaft which drives the opti have what I'll call a master spline--so it will only go on one way correctly. However I've seen more then one thread where someone has used the bolts to "seat" the opti--resulting in a no start and/or trashing the opti. You should be able to seat the...
Yep sure do--even though I guess I'm not always aware of it. My wife has said many times "you had fun driving home today didn't you??"----my answer "Well---yeah--why do you ask that?"----"because I could tell by that silly grin on your face." :D
I replaced my OEM opti (water pump took it out) with Accel-- within 1500
-2000 miles it left me stranded. There are 2 small screws which hold the rotor and also keep the opti trigger wheel in place. One screw was crossthreaded--the other worked loose and allowed the trigger wheel to destroy the...
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