the allen bolts are a good idea if wrench clearance is too tight. back in the old days we just had the shop put in a Y to an exhaust cut out..totally open..or could have a small free flow resonator muffler on that Y..easy to open or shut off ..can go to back or side..or down..about anywhere..if there is a cat..can be before at bottom of downpipe.
I have found 2 places that make a replacement header to fit the 81..and prob most other vette 350s...McJakes and Stans-Headers in Auburn Wa..Stans seem to be pretty hi quality..made right there not in china..both tho are about $500 and then $250 range more to have ceramic coat. These for a no emission, no smog A.I.R car. and heat shields prob wont fit (maybe in part with some mods<and likely no heat riser.) there are many othee headers that may have to have some mods to fit..esp if std trans car with the clutch cross shaft. Otherwise only thing for an smog, stock car is to find em used..refurbish em..maybe get em ceramic coated. i am changing cuz ones I have a cracked a little..may be able to fix..but if I am gonna do the work of R and R..thinking spend a little more to get quality new headers that will last..and I do already have a true dual flowmaster exhaust pipe/muffler with no cat, so headers will actually do some good. Aftermarket headers in an 81 may do a little better..than stock..but not much..and not much at all if the rest of the exhaust is stock, and...not much if the intake and tune side is not improved. The 81 were choked up by emission standards and fuel mileage of the day..so no wonder some just change the engine..it takes pistons, heads, intake manif, carb, cam, new distrib and timing (36 deg mech all in at 3000 RPM, should end up about 12 deg static) and dumping the computer, plus exhaust to make it come alive. Well I will have it..except pistons and heads...soon.
by the way since we are on an 81 topic..the handling will be much improved with shocks / struts improvements AND...correct alignment which should NOT BE ORIG factory alignment which was way off. Align: Set rear Camber to,.5 deg, each side, then rear toe, 1/8” total (so 1/16 each side : Tighten pivot bolt to 50 ft lb, but do not put cotter pin in yet. (a recheck and possible final adjustment may be made.) Very thin shims are provided.
Front alignment: Do Caster first, right side 3.3. left at 2.9 Front Camber .29 deg neg, same both sides; Last, set Front toe at 1/8” total of both sides, so 1/16” per side. these specs determined from VDP, Speed Direct and Duntov. This is how my car is now set up and handling is night and day better.
Nick