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'93 A/C conversion to new freon system

  • Thread starter Thread starter lancewest
  • Start date Start date
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lancewest

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Good Evening,

I had a mechanic (?) lean on and damage the air conditioner evaporator and then cut off the case with a circular power saw to remove the evaporator. What a moron. Anyway, the replacement unit is the new freon type vs the original installed at the factory in 1993.

Is it necessary to replace any other parts, or add, to use the new freon?

I'm checking in advance so I not scammed by some shop when I go for the installation.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Lance
 
As long as the system is open replace the acumilator and all the Orings.
Also make sure they flush the system. some say to replace or rebuild the compressor but I have done a number of these and left the compressor if it didn't show any sighns of leaking . I have even done a few by just evacuating the system and recharging with the 134A and compatible oil. I didn't run any of those for more than three yrs before selling the cars so I don't know what the long term result on that was. I have heard from other people that did this on longer term and no problems.
 
This is the general procedure for a retrofit: assuming that all the refrigerant has leaked out, the system needs to be flushed with an a/c flush liquid and then blown dry with compressed air. I'm sure your condenser is probably still good, and if you don't have the dreaded shaft seal leak on the front of your compressor (look on the underside of your hood for a spray of oil from the rotation of the compressor clutch pulley), then your compressor is probably still good. They will probably change your accumulator. If you had R12 in your system, then the mechanic will insist on changing the o-rings to R134a-compatible o-rings, and there are 6 of them if I recall. Quite honestly, I don't understand the fuss about changing the o-rings, everyone says that the old ones are not compatible with R134a but we have a test mule 1989 Jeep that we converted several years ago without changing the o-rings and we're still getting 48 degree vent temps. The o-rings are compressed so tightly inside the fitting that I don't see how anything can leak past them. Anyhoo, at a minimum, your mechanic will probably do all these things.
 

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