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A little help here guys ( Need a mid year!)

Spanish

The trailing arm was a different year... with bigger holes.. that why the slop...I have to get a matching arm with the smaller holes to make my life MORE complete.


Vig~
 
Ok the rear is in ..

New 1/2 shafts W spicer U joints
Correct pair of strut rods in with new Urethane bushings.
New hardware for rear spring ( urethane too!)
Cap ends on output yokes ( grade 8 hardware)
New foward hanger rubber & hardware
and the two covers in the wheel wells to get to the body mounts... installed.

Glass packs hung a bit better ( still a MORT job)

Rear end filled... with some old 90 weight just to mix it up with the skank in there.

And she RIDES!

I have to get the rear re aligned.. but I got REALLY close...

Vig~

Tomorrow take the rear end and have the fluids changed Have the tires balanced & the rear aligned & Brakes....
 
Happy fingers clicking & pointing

Somebody STOP ME....

Well I went to the ecklers web site ( Oh boy!)

And bought the following...

The hangers for the exhaust Under the tranny mount 2.5"

2 new bezels for the exhaust ( stainless).

And a new rear filler panel.

This way, I wont have to deal with the cutting and fabbing up a mount for the bezels.... there is SO MUCH ELSE TO DO.. and the exhaust is currently resting on the frame rails ( in the holes ) and rattling up a storm... So I got my can of paint to match and will have it sprayed... so It's a bolt & go.. then off to the muffler shop..hopefully by next weekend.. I can take this OFF my " Things to do" list
 
Not awake...cant think.. have the fever bad

So the 3:08's didn't do as much as I thought..It's better.. but the top end feels only slightly better ( engine rev's VS ground speed)

If I'm thinking correctly...

The only way out of this problem is an overdrive.. what are my options?

If I went with a shorter tire.. that would make my problem WORSE right?

They don't make 2:59's for a 64.. right?
( actually now a 1975 pumpkin)

So richmond.. here I come?

HELP!

Vig~

Ya know... Oh NO.. I never actually checked my OLD pumpkin ratio.. I assumed it was 3:70.... Oh I got a bad feeling about this...

DOH!
 
Well the Richmond is out

The final drive is 1:1

And for $2300.00 1995 for tranny & 300 for shifter.. Ive got that already!


DOH!

Vig~
 
This is starting to look like "War and Peace". :D
 
More like....

.. The never ending story

or


The Money Pit


Vig~
 
67HEAVEN said:
This is starting to look like "War and Peace". :D

War & Peace was shorter :D.

Still sounds like progress, Vig.

:w
Guy
 
Richmond

Vig,
I spoke to a guy Tuesday night at a local cruise night who got tired of 20 yr. old girls in rice burners passing him going 75mph when his car was wound up tight. So he put in a tranny with overdrive. :Steer

He said it's like night and day.
I just had my Muncie rebuilt this past winter. I wish I looked into a 6 speed instead. :bash

Maybe next year. I have an M20 and a 3:50 rear end. Someone told me that if I changed the rear tires to a larger diameter it wound help. So I did the calculations and if I add an inch to my tire diameter it's like changing the rear end to a 3:36. Does anyone out there have any experience doing this?

Bye the way. Smart choice buying the new valance with the rings already on.
Keep up the good work.

Keep the pictures coming...

Mark:beer
 
On the issue of rear gears and transmissions, I prepared this Excel spreadsheet to help me choose a 3.08:1 rear gear with Richmond 5-speed tranny.

Rear tires are 295-50x15.

See if it makes sense for your situation.
comparison-ratios.jpg
 
Yes, the Richmond 5-speed is 1:1 in 5th, but look at the advantage of having that extra gear.

First is like a "bull-low" so that you can back off on your rear-end ratio to something that cruises on the highway while retaining the ability to "launch" out of the hole.


Munice - M21/M22 1st gear overall ratio (with 3.08:1 rear) 6.78:1
Munice - M20 1st gear overall ratio (with 3.08:1 rear) 7.76:1
Richmond - 5 1st gear overall ratio (with 3.08:1 rear) 10.10:1 (yikes!)

It's like having 4.56:1 gears in 1st with the Richmond. :D
 
Re: Not awake...cant think.. have the fever bad

vigman said:
So the 3:08's didn't do as much as I thought..It's better.. but the top end feels only slightly better ( engine rev's VS ground speed)

If I'm thinking correctly...

The only way out of this problem is an overdrive.. what are my options?

If I went with a shorter tire.. that would make my problem WORSE right?

They don't make 2:59's for a 64.. right?
( actually now a 1975 pumpkin)

So richmond.. here I come?

HELP!

Vig~

Ya know... Oh NO.. I never actually checked my OLD pumpkin ratio.. I assumed it was 3:70.... Oh I got a bad feeling about this...

DOH!

Vig,

You are starting to worry me. Grab a cup of decaf and hit the recliner. We need to talk about this. Pull the Rear End Ratio Caculator out of the Toolbox under the Tech Center tab at the top of the page and let's think this over.

With a 15" tire of around 27.5 inches tall, which would be a good average for a Mid Year compatable tire, you are only turning a little over 2600 rpm at 70 mph. 2200 at 60. I know you are going to build a new engine and this is at the bottom edge of the recommended cruising rpm of most modern profile street performance cams. If you slow the engine down much more you will end up having to slip the clutch to get it rolling and have to down shift to get the engine in the power band every time you want to pass or accelerate briskly. Sure the '81 and '82 had a 2.72 rear but the '81 4 speed had a 2.88 1st gear and the 700R4 of '82 has a deep low gear too. They also had the advantage of computor controls and cam profiles designed to work with this setup. I fear you are heading for a top end Bonneville machine that will be a slug in daily driving situations.

A mid year with a 327/300 horse, 4 speed and 3.36 rear gears is considered to be one of the best all around driver Corvettes of all times. 3000 rpm at 70 is not a bad thing. I used to pull 18.5 mpg at 70 in my '65 so equiped back in the '70s. This is not stressing a small block at all. Granted, these new high tech fuel injected, roller cammed and electonically controlled engines of today will pull strong from the teens on up but that isn't what we are dealing with here.

If your tach is showing a different rpm than the Calculator it may need re-calibrated. Not uncommon. (Something else for your list).
A 3.08 with a 1:1 4 speed is going to give you more top end than you will ever use and keep out of jail. In 1967 (here he goes with another old fogey story) I worked in Indianapolis during the week and went home to NE Indiana on the weekends. My ride at that time was a new '67 Olds 442 with a turbo 400 and 3.08 rear and a 2 row radiator. It had 14" 2 ply wide ovals that probably weren't any taller than 26.5 at the most . Maybe less. At the time I had to go north around 20 miles from town in Friday night traffic to pick up the interstate (I-69). It didn't go all the way to Indy yet.

After I hit the big road I would run a minumum of 90 mph and a max of 115, or 120+ if someone wanted to play, all the way home except for at Anderson where the cops were always sitting. Down to 80 there. The goal was US6 in less than 3 hours. This was a weekly thing for about 6 months weather permitting. Yes I was nuts. The car had 9 1/2 inch drum brakes that were useless. Hit them hard at 120 mph and by the time you slowed to 110 you had no brakes. From 65 a hard brake application would render them null and void by 45 mph. Sometime the good old days weren't so good; downright scarey.

I never broke or cooked anything and when I sold the car a few years ago to a collector it was showing 148,500 miles. Never apart and would still pin you to the seat.

Sorry for rambling but my point is the 3.08 is the highest (low numerically) I would consider going on your car if you plan on enjoying it both in town and on the road.

Tom
 
I forgot to mention the five reasons that I chose a Richmond 5-speed rather than the 6-speed:

1. less cost;
2. less hacking things up underneath to get it tucked in there where the Munice used to be;
3. the top end with 3.08:1, even without overdrive, already freaks this old guy out!!!;
4. one less gear for this tired old body to deal with; :D
5. less gears to grind if Mrs. 67HEAVEN gets behind the wheel :(
 
Sat & Sunday

I did NOTHING....
( on the car )

Ordered some more STUFF...

But that's about it...

Lazy Butt ITIS!

Vig~
 
Ok here's the tire combo I have on there now

P-225 70 R 15 and they are 26.5 inches tall ( give or take an eighth)


So I should tachin low & going fast...

But right now it feels like the opposite

So more beer for me... and ponder the other problems in my universe.


Vig~
 
At 60 mph you should be taching 2393 rpm.

At 70 ; 2734 rpm.
 
Ok will report back later this week

What I'm shooting for is 2500 ( or lower )@ 75

So If I raise the car @ put the 4X4 tires on it .. I should be cool

JOKE

Vig~
 
Why not use Drag tyres ? Even larger diameter.....100mph @ idle revs...:Steer :upthumbs
 
Here's the simple solution to get 2500 rpms at 75 mph. Pull that 3.08 diff out and go get a '81 code OK or and '82 code OA with a 2.72 ratio. With the tires you have you will be turning 2493@75mph.

BTW the tire charts show P225/70R15s at 27.5 inchs diameter. This is what I used to calculate the rpms.

Another BTW. If your new engine will pull 7000 rpm in 4th you have a theoretical top speed of 210.

I tried to accomplish your goal with just bigger tires but even with a 255/75 at 30. tall you would only be down to 2582. I think they would look a little agricultural though. :D
 

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