Advice for ne engine purchase or build

[EOLIVER]

I have a 1989 with six speed and AFR 1041 heads. I'm ready to either ebuild or replace the engine. I have a budget of 5-6K and wondering if I should simply rebuild my current engine or pruchase a should purchase a ZZ4 or 383 shortblock and use an after market intake? Does the 383 require a computer chip change. Will the ZZ4 short block bolt up to the AFR heads and accept all the other L98 TPI topside parts?. My car currently has the following aftermarket parts:
- AFR 1041 L98 Heads
-Open Air Lid w K&N filter
-MAT sensor relocation
-bbk 52mm TB
-Adujustable Fuel Pressure regulator
-Hypertech coil and distributor cap and rotor
-flowmaster delta 40 mufflers
-high flow cat
-accell fuel injectors


What other CA members do?

 

[Schrade]

What's wrong with the one in there now? No squeeze in the holes? Oil/coolant burn? Stale air freshener?

 

[EOLIVER]

Just a bunch of little things. Front Cranks seal leak, Oil coming up on the valve covers, and two mechanics say either bad rings and a knock. I have a compressin test and a leak down test; all cylinders 150+. The ar is 20 years old and I;m just looking to get back to a solid foundation.

 

[vetteoz]

I have a budget of 5-6K and

Could do a lot of damage with that size budget considering you already have the heads.Put some $$$ towards a better intake.

I should simply rebuild my current engine or pruchase a should purchase a ZZ4 or 383 shortblock

Cost $250 extra over std rebuild to build a 383

Will the ZZ4 short block bolt up to the AFR heads and accept all the other L98 TPI topside parts?. ?

ZZ4 is identical to your current engine with better valve springs , slightly higher CR and 4 bolt mains.Top engine for the price but go the 383 if you can.

Does the 383 require a computer chip change.

Doing any engine major mods (H/C ) , you should get a retune to optimise performance.Leaving HP on the table otherwise.

 

[vetteoz]

Depends what your end needs are; a D/D or a perf upgrade.
Some considerations
There are fixed costs involved in rebuilding your engine; new pistons / bearings/ small part /machine work, etc.
As stated above , $250 extra for a stroker crank gets you a 383. Quality Scat /eagle stroker kits start about $700 (inc flexplate and balancer ).Add in machining and assembly costs =X .If you can do work yourself you are ahead

You can buy a assembled 383 long block on eBay (quality parts built by reputible seller , not backyard) for >$1700.
Cam $250 , your heads, under $3K for engine leaving plenty for intake upgrade and long tube headers.

or go the crate motor route for more outlay

 

[Schrade]

Just a bunch of little things. Front Cranks seal leak, Oil coming up on the valve covers, and two mechanics say

Say??? Words are air; means nothing.

I have a compressin test and a leak down test; all cylinders 150+. The ar is 20 years old and I;m just looking to get back to a solid foundation.

THAT means something. If the squeeze is matched in all 8 holes, I'd seriously consider leaving the crank assembly alone. Unless it really is knocking down low...

What kind of oil pressure does it hold when warm? (at idle and at around 2250) Worn bearings will allow the oil to escape the journals faster, and show lower than spec pressure.

 

[EOLIVER]

Schrade, my oil pressure is fine, that's what so confusing about the oil coming up on the valve cover from the breather area ans slight oil from the pvc grommet area. I am the second owner. I appreciate everyones comments here tonight. I'm really leaning twords for 383 short block from M&R machine shop in glendale ca with a TPIS big Mouth manifold. Anyone ever purchase an engine from this outfit or can anyone recommend a good engine builder in San Diego CA?

 

[bucket]

Schrade, my oil pressure is fine, that's what so confusing about the oil coming up on the valve cover from the breather area ans slight oil from the pvc grommet area. I am the second owner. I appreciate everyones comments here tonight. I'm really leaning twords for 383 short block from M&R machine shop in glendale ca with a TPIS big Mouth manifold. Anyone ever purchase an engine from this outfit or can anyone recommend a good engine builder in San Diego CA?

if you find one be sure a post it , eh.?
thaNX

 

[Schrade]

IF I ever went with another motor in my c4 (which I almost did last year while trying to find a problem (which turned out to be an iffy spark plug wire emitting radiation)), then I'd go with a low-mileage factory motor from a new wrecked vette, GTO, etc., instead of a builder's motor.

A low-mileage factory motor would have been under warranty, and there would be TOTAL performance/spec baseline data for troubleshooting any problems yyyup.

 

[EOLIVER]

I see a bunch of stores on e-bay selling different long and short blocks. Can anyone recommend a good one?

 

[Schrade]

F-parts, Cleveland pick-a-part, both sell high perf late-model GM wrecks...

eBay Store - Fparts: USED Corvette Parts 05-08 C6, GTO Parts, NEW Corvette Parts 05-08 C6
LS1's, 2's, and LS6 too, starting at $2,200!!!

eBay Store - Cleveland Pick-A-Part: Dodge Viper Car, Corvette, Firebird Camaro

Browse their inventories, then call, and save ebay fees uh huh!

Like this:

 

[vetteoz]

IF I ever went with another motor in my c4 then I'd go with a low-mileage factory motor from a new wrecked vette, GTO, etc.,

Plenty have done the LSX into C4 conversion; the hard parts ; engine mounts / headers are available off the shelf but you still have major mods to intergrate with C4 electonics.Not a drop in swap.

 

[Schrade]

Plenty have done the LSX into C4 conversion; the hard parts ; engine mounts / headers are available off the shelf but you still have major mods to intergrate with C4 electonics.Not a drop in swap.

I think all that's necessary is re-pinning the connectors, for the electrics compatibility, based on what I've read.

If you have donor and swap FSM's, you can do this, if you have the special tool for removing the pin connectors out of the harness connectors.

I did a re-pin for an aftermarket stereo in an '02 bowtie 1-ton, and also for a front panel power control/LED combo-to-motherboard connector for a computer. Only hard part was backing out pins without special tools. Best part was none of these afterward:

 

[vetteoz]

I think all that's necessary is re-pinning the connectors, for the electrics compatibility, based on what I've read.

You have to run the LSX PCM and harness; then because it is OBDII it has lookups for things not present on a L98
From your buddies over on CF
An idea to help simplify the LS1 swap... - Corvette Forum

I like this one

 

[Schrade]

Wow... OP's approach isn't too impressive, with respect to really doing it properly:

"I'd rather not get into the OBD2 mess"

"Just subtract the carburetor and start splicing up the factory harness for the HEI distributer."

"I know I have seen them around or heck, just fab up your own!"

"with minimal inputs to make the car drivable"

"I was talking about the very basics and minimal sensory input in order to help make the LS1 drivable in a C4. Doubt the ABS is needed..."



If he got it 'driveable', more power (pun intended ) to him. I'm gettin' the impression tho; that this person isn't into detail. With a stock car, attention to detail is necessary. With a swap, attention to detail is ABSOLUTELY necessary.

Well, looks like by post #10 he was gettin' the message. Too bad. Do it right, make vids, host vids on your own web server, and you could make a few bucks goin' at it!

Too much brainwork tho', and no one likes brainwork.