C1-Need help on Rear Suspension

[Larry Shermak]

I've run into some trouble re-assembling the rear suspension, specifically when I tried to bring the rebound straps around the axle back up thru the bracket. I have installed new springs, mounted the rear axle to the springs and installed the radius rods. This is when I found out I was in trouble. It seems like everything would be in a bind if I got it together. I'm thinking about taking the U-bolts off & raising the axle till I can attach the rebound straps then rastling the springs back to where I can attach the U-bolts. Any thoughts?
I know studio & 61 silver may have done this recently. Help!!!

 

[RugHead]

You should compress the suspension to specified ride height before tightening any of the joints with bushings. Spring ends, radius rods, sway bar, etc. This is also the time to do the rebound straps. Is your body off?

 

[Larry Shermak]

C1 rear suspension

Yes the body is off on a dolly & the frame has just been repainted. Doing some re-assembly now.

 

[61 Silver]

Hi! Larry



One of the last things that I did was to install the rebound straps. I assembled the front and rear suspension loose, installed the drive train and then the body and interior. After I had all the weight on the chassis I used some ratchet straps to help compress the springs as much as I could. The rebound straps could then be installed. I also set up a checklist with torque specs so that I did not forget to torque down all the suspension components. I also did a rough front wheel alignment using a tape measure and a framing square and drove the car for a few miles to get the suspension to settle. I then took it in for a correct alignment.



Ray

 

[RugHead]

Larry: This little gizmo is the C1 rear suspension compressor that I use. It spans across the top of the frame, the two angle-iron brackets attach to the wheel lugs on the axle, then you just crank it down. There is a spec in the ST-12 or AIM, one or the other, that shows dimension between axle and frame. Put it at that dimension, tighten all the bushings, and rivet your straps. Piece o' cake.

 

[studiog]

Larry, I did this quite a while ago but from what I remember I installed the rebound straps after the motor was installed in the chassis but before the body was dropped. I think I jacked up the rearend and put a jack stand under one side of the axle (as far outboard as possible) and let the jack back down. I think I got a little more compression this way. I also folded the strap ends correctly and put them in a vise overnight so a "crease" would form, then installed the next day. This helped straighten the strap so it dropped straight down from the bracket and gave me a little more "slack" to work with. I don't remember having any issues with the install. Hope this helps.

 

[JohnZ]

At design ride height, you'll have 3-3/4" between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail directly above it, and in that position you should have 2" to 2-1/2" of air between the bottom of the axle tube and the rebound strap.