C3 cabin heat

[Bob Chadwick]

Maybe up thru the condensate drain??????

A 1" cap with several small holes will cover that. Didn't make much of a difference on mine.

I have just about everything covered. It's either coming up where the heater hoses hook to the heater core or the box is just getting hot.

 

[Bill75]

Yes Bob, I agree about the box getting hot. After I had the core out I could look right in and see the inside of the box, just on the other side of that is where I took the 240 deg reading, what 1/8" thick maybe?. It seems like the only thing left. There's so much flow coming thru the A/C vents I really thought I'd find a bad gasket somewhere though. I bought the rubber seals for the heater hose/pipes from Doc rebuild if you need them, they do look like they'll fit, also the seals for the A/C pipes.

I might look into that Coollizzard material if nothing else turns up.
Bill

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I bought the rubber seals for the heater hose/pipes from Doc rebuild if you need them, they do look like they'll fit, also the seals for the A/C pipes.

There are rubber seals for the heater hose pipes? That's news to me. Can you reference the page for both of these, either in the on-line catalogue or the paper catalogue?

 

[Bill75]

Sure, I'll get you the p/n's and shoot you a photo if you want when I get home after work. They were in his new catalog which came out this summer.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks Bill.

Did you put them in place yet. Did they make a big difference?

Are you going to insulate your box? I've thought about it but just can't envision that it would look all that great.

 

[Bill75]

No, I haven't installed them yet, I still have the assembly on the garage floor. There's a seal on the inside of the box that's shot between the opening for the tubes and the air passage, I'm going to stop by at the Vette shop on the way home and see what he has. I don't think it has anything to do with the problem though.
I really am thinking about doing the box with the Coollizard stuff. It's only .040 thick, is flexable as heck and can be painted black to match the firewall. You can also spray it on the undercarriage of the car above the exhaust system to keep the heat away from the floor. Even if I have to buy the gun for $140 it's well worth it to me, this damn heat takes all the fun away from driving the car.
If I decide to do it I'll post the info. Putting the makeshift aluminium shield between the exhaust manifold and the box had to reduce the surface temp a good 120 deg.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks for all the info Bill.

Post pictures if you can as this is a very common problem.

I went to the Lizardskin site. Their stuff looks pretty cool. It says it can be brushed, which is what I might consider for such a small area.

Custom Rodder has a good article on it as well.

Unfortunately it's not cheap. I only found one place on the Internet with it for sale and it was $189.95 for a 2 gallon bucket.

I don't have my car right now but it is no big deal because, as you indicate, it is too hot here in GA to drive it right now. As it currently stands, it is definitely a Spring and Fall driver.

 

[Bill75]

Doc Rebuild seal p/n's:

Heater Core Pipe Seal 8846-417(under car where hoses attach)
Heater Core Pipe Seal 8846-431(inside heater core box chamber)
Evap Core Inlet Pipe Seal 8846-412
Evap Core Inlet Pipe Seal 8846-413

Tunnel Collar that goes over the bell housing to stop hot air from going around the transmission: 1298016.

Interesting article on the coating also. Thanks

OOOPS!! I made a mistake on the P/N's the -417 and the -431 were reversed. The -417 is the one that seals the pipes where they hook to the heater hoses.
Sorry:eyerole