I love troubleshooting this kind of problem. Hope I'm not being too elementary but here goes. I would need a wiring diagram and an analog ohmmeter. Both are a necessity. Disconnect the battery neg cable. Pull the fuse. Zero the meter on RX1 scale and connect it between the load side of the fuse (not the hot side) and ground. With a dead short you will be reading zero ohms. With the doors closed (or tape the door light switches closed) disconnect all items on that circuit that you can, one at a time - lighter, clock, alarm system, whatever, while watching the meter. Keep in mind that combined bulbs in the system may read about 10 ohms. Thats only about 1.2 amps draw, which is OK. You are looking for any movement off of zero. So when you find the problem, the meter may only move slightly above zero ohms. When that happens you have isolated the circuit that has the problem. Given the age of the vehicle, I'm guessing a wire with brittle isolation that may have broken completely and is now grounded. Stick with it and you will find it.
The most difficult short I ever chased took me about 3 hours. After all of that time with no luck, I sat down in the back seat of the convertible in exaspiration. The meter went to infinity. After pulling up the seat I found that the seat spring had crushed the insulation of a wire where it went over the drive shaft tunnel. Two cents of tape cured the problem.
Good luck!