Question: C4 tune up

[Marv02]

I get it now stock my 1986 is a 230 HP 330 TQ yes it has more power than your 205 HP motor but if you going to dump some cash into it look into some used heads cams get the car to breath als if you can get rid of the cats.

I have to keep the cats out here to meet smog.

keep a wacth on the used part lsting or make a thread on good flowing used heads WTD someone mite have a set for cheep.

And yes a better intake would help but not cheep.

Don't forget about getting it chipped for the mods.

I have a guy I FWD his info PM if you like to get a hold of him He owns a injector Comp he has helped me out a lot.

But that's the thing, I wasn't saying I wanted a 10 second car. Like I said earlier, it was metaphorical not literal. And I know I'd need a lot more than 250, I'd need about 750 to be more accurate.

Anyway, should have the gasket for the intake tomorrow, replace it, and then see if it runs any better.

 

[warren s]

But that's the thing, I wasn't saying I wanted a 10 second car. Like I said earlier, it was metaphorical not literal. And I know I'd need a lot more than 250, I'd need about 750 to be more accurate.

Anyway, should have the gasket for the intake tomorrow, replace it, and then see if it runs any better.

Do you have a vacuum gauge? and a timing light? I would also recommend infrared laser thermometer (to check the temps of the exhaust manifolds near each piston).

I listened to the video, it didnt sound so bad.

I think you find it enough of a challenge to get this car running good in its stock form, you will gain plenty of experience and in the process learn whats possible, whats probable and whats realistic for your future build plans.

There is so much more to performance than just the math.

 

[bartric]

Vacuum gauge, not sure
timing light, yes, can't seem to get it in time either
infared thermometer, yes.

we've tried timing it and the only place that it seems to be in time, is around 40 degrees over, and it's supposed to be 6

 

[warren s]

I wonder if the dist was removed and replaced incorrectly. When you check the timing do you have to disconnet anything such as a plug that goes to the dist?

Try connecting the vac guage and turn the dist until you get the most vaccume.
(Thats a process from "back in the day")

 

[bartric]

The cap was removed when we got it.
We don't remove anything when timing it.

Where do we connect the vac gauge?

 

[warren s]

The vac guage connects to a port on the intake manifold. Most likely you need to use a "T" connector to plug the guage into an existing port. See if there is hose from the dist. to the manifold.

You may want to remove the dist cap, and bump the starter until the rotor is pointing to the number one plug on the cap and see where the timing mark is. Remove the spark plug form the number one cylinder, and carefully insert a pipecleaner or pencil to see if the pistion is at TDC,. (compression stroke)

I bet your dad is aware of this procedure.

 

[bartric]

My dad used a similar technique by placing his thumb over the cylinder plug hole, and turning the engine til the pressure was enough to push his finger off, and it was pointing right at the #1 plug on the dist when it pushed his thumb off.

 

[warren s]

Just to rule out the basic stuff. 40 degrees advance when the factory setting is 6, is something to investigate no matter what else may be wrong.

 

[bartric]

Very true, but could it be 40 degrees advance because we can't hold it at a certain rpm and, I would like to think that it wouldn't run at 40 degrees because that'd be nearly 1 whole piston behind where it should be. It'd basically be like setting it to 5 degrees after the piston before it's top, instead of 6 before it's top. I'm thinking that it may be at 6 we just can't keep it at 2000 like we're supposed to

 

[Schrade]

My dad used a similar technique by placing his thumb over the cylinder plug hole, and turning the engine til the pressure was enough to push his finger off, and it was pointing right at the #1 plug on the dist when it pushed his thumb off.

This is static timing check - what I asked 10 posts ago.

Spin the crank with a breaker bar on the crank pulley, til the timing mark is at 0 degrees. You don't have to pull the spark plug.

Pull the distributor cap. The rotor will be just after the #1 contact, ON THE #8 side of #1. Remember the rotor will be opposite of what you're looking at, as you look inside to cap.

If the rotor is just AFTER #6 (half way around), and is on the #5 side of #6, your timing is close enough to start dynamic timing check.

You also need to check squeeze in all 8 holes, since the starting fluid lit. It should NOT do that with electronic timing, unless an intake valve is not seating. After this, do the vacuum leak test as described above.

These tests should be NOW. There's no reason to do anything else before that, cause this thread will go on for ever and ever amen otherwise.

 

[boomdriver]

Very true, but could it be 40 degrees advance because we can't hold it at a certain rpm and, I would like to think that it wouldn't run at 40 degrees because that'd be nearly 1 whole piston behind where it should be. It'd basically be like setting it to 5 degrees after the piston before it's top, instead of 6 before it's top. I'm thinking that it may be at 6 we just can't keep it at 2000 like we're supposed to

Yeah, its going to jump around lots if the idle is'nt steady. Everytime the throttle is moved, the ECM will move the timing in anticipation of the increase in rpm. Because its all electronic, it needs a constant rpm to display something reliable.

I agree with WarrenS....if nothing else, cap all the vac ports to help track down the leaks, then replace the hoses one by one where they are supposed to go. If you search the threads here,. there was some great info on the CF injectors a few months ago. The 2 are not the same, and there are some things that you can do to see if they are junk or still usable. Since they have less than 15 lbs supply pressure they need to be clean and not sticking.

 

[geekinavette]

One of our members here had an 84 that he did quite a bit of work to. It ran pretty well...I rode in it and I think it would have been plenty for my 94 LT1. How much did he spend and what kind of power was he producing? I can't tell you, but maybe he'll check in here.

Geekinavette, Bill, are you out there?

Sorry, Tom...haven't paying attention very well!

I don't think there's much I can offer here at this point.

Bill

 

[vetteboy86]

Forgive me if I have missed it, but the EST wire will need to be unplugged to time the car. I didn't see this anywhere in the thread, but will admit I read the last two pages very quickly.

The EST wire is tan.

 

[Marv02]

Try this link for you crossfire ownners.


CrossFire Injection Forum

I had a crossfire in my 1st 1982 Pontiac Trans Am Auto, I didn't like the auto I purchased it new back in 1982.

I endup tradeing in for a 2nd 1982 T/A Recaro with carb and 4 speed Manual I enjoyed that car much better.

 

[bartric]

Forgive me if I have missed it, but the EST wire will need to be unplugged to time the car. I didn't see this anywhere in the thread, but will admit I read the last two pages very quickly.

The EST wire is tan.

Why do you have to unplug the wire? What does it do and where is it located?

 

[Schrade]

Why do you have to unplug the wire? What does it do and where is it located?

Time to drop the:


and grab a





Static timing, and squeeze in the holes - promise.

Forgive me if I have missed it, but the EST wire will need to be unplugged to time the car. I didn't see this anywhere in the thread, but will admit I read the last two pages very quickly.

The EST wire is tan.

He doesn't need to play with wires to do static timing, or check compression, since the starter fluid lit up; the fire is getting out of the intake valve, or is lighting up while the piston is on the draw - THAT would have to be about 90 degrees advanced, which ain't likely.

 

[aklim]

Why do you have to unplug the wire? What does it do and where is it located?

I know where it is located on my 91 but not sure where it is located on yours. The reason you want to disconnect it is so that the ECM DOES NOT advance the timing. Otherwise, how can you check base timing?

 

[Schrade]

I know where it is located on my 91 but not sure where it is located on yours. The reason you want to disconnect it is so that the ECM DOES NOT advance the timing. Otherwise, how can you check base timing?

What is 'base' timing? This is a dynamic measurement? With motor running?

I think static MOTOR OFF timing is first, before any dynamic measurements, especially since his ignition is coming back up. He either has an intake valve not seating (compression check), or a drive gear off by a tooth, to light the charge so far in advance (so static check is first).

Either way, I don't think anything is gonna' happen, so forget the wrench, just drop the hammer, and get some Nic-O-Derms, for when it starts to cook.

 

[aklim]

What is 'base' timing? This is a dynamic measurement? With motor running?

I think static MOTOR OFF timing is first, before any dynamic measurements, especially since his ignition is coming back up. He either has an intake valve not seating (compression check), or a drive gear off by a tooth, to light the charge so far in advance (so static check is first).

Either way, I don't think anything is gonna' happen, so forget the wrench, just drop the hammer, and get some Nic-O-Derms, for when it starts to cook.

I have never done static timing but base timing is done with the engine running and the advance off.

 

[Schrade]

I have never done static timing but base timing is done with the engine running and the advance off.

Gotcha'...
(see sigline)


I think static time is what a wrench does (or hack like myself) does when in the dark, and has no clue what all the problems are...