Cleaning up the engine bay/frame

[80VetteL82]

Okay so once I pull the motor out of my car, I figure it will be a great time to really clean up and organize my engine bay. I figure it would be a good idea to also clean and paint the section of the frame exposed in the engine bay.
Im just looking for advice on good ways to go about doing this.
This is what I planned. I figured once the motor was out I could take a wire wheel to the frame and really clean it up. Once all the grease, oil, and any surface rust is cleaned I was going to go with POR-15's black coating. Do you think I would need to topcoat the frame after the POR-15, or does that leave a good enough finish on its own? For the bay, I figured just a good cleaning and then paint with a high temp black paint. then Ill organize all the vacuum lines and wiring, and replace any necessary....then I should be ready for the new motor....
Does this plan sound like Im headed in the right direction? Any suggestions?
Thanks, Kevin:cheers:

 

[78Vette-SA]

One thing I always say, as do most others, is that it's in the details. If you have the motor out you are way ahead of the game. Your plan sounds like a good one but don't go by the theory of "well you can't see it anyway". You'll know it's there so while you are at it and have it all apart, clean and touch up EVERYTHING. Then as you put the motor back in, every piece that goes back in you should be able to look at it and say whether or not it meets your "quality" inspection.

Have fun. It'll look great when done.

Inspirational Example (I hope)

 

[Rebelrob]

That sounds like a good idea to me. I m sure there are lots of different steps you can take. Brushing it down real good, degreasing, and then repaint with POR or some good Rustoleum high temp paint. I think they make this also in paint over rust as well. I plan on removing my engine soon for replacement, and this task is on my to do list.
Good luck.

 

[emf1367]

If you were on the west coast I'd say the POR15 was overkill but since you're in Maine I'd say it is a good choice. I would paint over the POR-15 because it has no UV protection. I know it won’t be exposed to much UV light but Murphys Law says it will be just enough to cause it to discolor in various places, causing a "patchy" look. You can buy Rustoleum "Satin" black in spray cans and in quart cans. I use both depending on how much I have to paint. (I also have a air compressor and paint gun. Though I once painted an entire C3 frame with spray cans.) The Rustoleum Satin Black looks as close to any factory frame finish of the day, though it's not nearly as durable. I use it and have spilled all types of fluids on it and none have affected the finish if I wipe them up quickly.

For the firewall and inner fender areas I used SEM paint #39143 "Trim Black". I use it anywhere the AIM calls for "blackout". It looks good and holds up well.

My best recommendation for cleaning is "Oil Eater" I found it several years ago at Costco's business center. I haven't found anything (including Simple Green) that compares to it's ability to clean and remove grease and oils. It's biodegradable and doesn't have a strong odor. Not to mention, it doesn't leave a residue. Try it and you won't be disappointed.

Good luck and send post some before and after photos.

 

[tcxd40]

Your approach is on the right track for sure. You may want to consider Rust Encapsulator by Eastwood products. COmes in black ,red and silver. I have used this alot on various rebuilds with great success.
Best degreaser I've found is CRC break clean. Also good bug killer... Did my entire frame and underbody with this stuff before and after removing the factory finish. Cleaned the frame down to bare metal and repainted with GM reconditioning paint, which is a perfecrt match to the original finish. Expensive though at $98.00 a gallon.