Construction equipment width

[MM-C5]

I would tee in to the line going from the well to the house providing that the pump is in the well otherwise that line would be a suction line for the pump if it is in the house. you can tee in where ever is going to be closest to your garage. once inside garage I would install a pressure tank to give you storage and also to reduce pressure loss in your house.

I like the waterless toilets have installed one before although not as nice as the one you've shown. But what about your shower and sink? you can get small one-piece septic holding tanks that would be dedicated to your shop, that aren't too bad for price. this system would have to be pumped out once or twice a year depending on how much water you run. if you're on septic system already you should be getting that tank pumped out once a year anyway.
hope this helps Mike

That's great advice Mike. Your mention of the pressure tank made me think about HOT water. There are a number of "On Demand" hot water systems that would work without having the hassel of a conventional hot water tank.

Btw, you should bid this job. I'll bet Ole Bob would even let you stay in the big house. :L

 

[67HEAVEN]

I've moved this thread from the Off Road Lounge into the Garage Depot. Time to get serious about construction.

Due to the amount of work I want to do in the house, following the move in September, I intended to leave construction until the spring of 2007, but I'm getting antsy. So, if possible, I'm starting construction in October of '06.

 

[67HEAVEN]

I would tee in to the line going from the well to the house providing that the pump is in the well otherwise that line would be a suction line for the pump if it is in the house. you can tee in where ever is going to be closest to your garage. once inside garage I would install a pressure tank to give you storage and also to reduce pressure loss in your house.

Mike,

I don't take possession of the property until late this month. If the pump is not in the well, what are my choices?

.......but what about your shower and sink?

Without running a drain 100 feet back to the existing septic for the house, I guess I could just drain the shower and sink into a rain barrel but I imagine town hall may have something to say about that.

I suppose I could install one of those outside showers (under a garden hose) and let the water soak into the lawn. Showering out there in January will test my manhood though. otfl

 

[MM-C5]

I've moved this thread from the Off Road Lounge into the Garage Depot. Time to get serious about construction.

Great, one more forum for me to have to track!

So, if possible, I'm starting construction in October of '06.

Nothing like a Winter Pour!

 

[67HEAVEN]

Nothing like a Winter Pour!

Winter? We Canucks are still grilling in the backyard and sunbathing in December.

 

[MM-C5]

Winter? We Canucks are still grilling in the backyard and sunbathing in December.

Well we Crackers start thinking about additives at any temp below 55! :L

 

[67HEAVEN]

I spoke to the town building department this morning.

Outbuildings can total a maximum of 10% of overall property. Since I have 51,000 square feet of property, I guess I can build a 5,100 square foot garage.....roughly 70' x 70'.

Like I said earlier, I've got enough room to build a small Chevy dealership. :gap

However, the maximum on the roof is 13.1 feet tall to the mid-point of hip roof. That means that the spot midway between the rain gutters and the highest point on the roof cannot be higher than 13.1 feet above grade. Depending on the pitch (angle) of the roof (I want it to match the house), I'll have to see if I can squeeze a 12 foot height into the room under the attic. I may have to be satisfied with 11 or 11.5 feet.

I questioned the building official about what requirements would be involved in placing a drain in the garage floor, so I could wash the car inside. He responded that a special catch/holding tank would be required in case of any chemical/oil contaminants. When I said, "I guess I'll just wash it out on the grass and let the water soak in", he just laughed.

 

[67HEAVEN]

I've talked to an architect who happens to be a client on mine about working up a set of drawings.

I haven't been able to find a suitable stock plan, so I guess custom plans are the only way to go.

 

[arcticvette]

Mike,

I don't take possession of the property until late this month. If the pump is not in the well, what are my choices?

that would mean that the line from the well to the house would be a suction line(2 in your case because of depth of well) and you would have go from inside the house to garage.(hole in basement wall)

Without running a drain 100 feet back to the existing septic for the house, I guess I could just drain the shower and sink into a rain barrel but I imagine town hall may have something to say about that.

i think you're probably looking at a seperate holding tank for the shop. the tank for the house may be undersized to add on. or if you have a septic field then it could get saturated with extra car washing water etc. and you don't want that. then there's the eavestrough through the wall trick instead of a proper urinal( which is required in every man palace):L

 

[Patrick]

However, the maximum on the roof is 13.1 feet tall to the mid-point of hip roof. That means that the spot midway between the rain gutters and the highest point on the roof cannot be higher than 13.1 feet above grade. Depending on the pitch (angle) of the roof (I want it to match the house), I'll have to see if I can squeeze a 12 foot height into the room under the attic. I may have to be satisfied with 11 or 11.5 feet.

Some jurisdictions allow you to average building height over all four elevations- useful if you have a property with a lot of terrain to it. You could, for example, put up a five or six foot berm on two sides of where the building will go, and get a few extra feet of height on the exposed sides of the building (assuming you can convince the building department those berms have always been there.)

Just a thought.

-Patrick

 

[67HEAVEN]

Some jurisdictions allow you to average building height over all four elevations- useful if you have a property with a lot of terrain to it.
-Patrick

Thanks, Patrick. It's good to have planners, plumbers, carpenters, etc. to fall back on. Here's to the people of

 

[67HEAVEN]

Here's the intended location of the new 50' x 30' rectangular garage on the property. The red arrow points to the location of the 4th corner, off to the left.

The four overhead doors will face the property line to the left, in order to allow for windows, plants, etc. along the opposite wall (visible from the house). The look of four side-by-side overhead doors facing the house would be too "commercial", if you get my meaning. The side facing the house will have a sliding glass door, a beer patio and lawn furniture for when the boys need a break from bench-racing.

Some jurisdictions allow you to average building height over all four elevations- useful if you have a property with a lot of terrain to it. You could, for example, put up a five or six foot berm on two sides of where the building will go, and get a few extra feet of height on the exposed sides of the building (assuming you can convince the building department those berms have always been there.)

Just a thought.

-Patrick

Patrick,

Given that the property has only a gentle slope from the property line to the house (grade at the house is approximately two feet lower than where the garage will sit), can you see a way that I incorporate your berm suggestion?

 

[Patrick]

Hmm- that will be a challenge. The normal way to apply this is when you have a site that experiences significant grade change (like 15 feet or more) from one end of the property to another. I know residential home builders in this area manufucture those kinds of grades when they do their subdivision grading plans, so that they can have basement walkouts.

I don't suppose you can add a few thousand cubic yards of fill dirt?



-Patrick

 

[DRTH VTR]

Bob-
Could the garage floor be below grade?

 

[67HEAVEN]

Bob-
Could the garage floor be below grade?

Good question, Jim.

Since I'll be excavating for footings below the frost line (approximately 4.5 feet down), I could certainly remove more dirt from inside the perimeter.

I guess I'll have to run that by the town building department, but I don't see why they would care. They height concern seems to be in relation to the surrounding grade (for aesthetic reasons I imagine), so dropping the floor shouldn't bother them........should it?

Can anyone imagine any reasons why I wouldn't want to drop the floor slab below grade? The structure will be erected on a block or poured concrete wall foundation. I haven't decided which yet. As mentioned earlier, the north and east walls (facing street and house) will be brick face to match the house. The other two walls will be vinyl (or similar) siding.

Thanks again for all the wisdom.

 

[DRTH VTR]

My concerns would be:

1. Drainage. You don't want a swimming pool every spring.

2. Driving the cars up and down a grade. Would that be a problem in winter?

 

[MM-C5]

Can anyone imagine any reasons why I wouldn't want to drop the floor slab below grade?

The first thing that comes to mind is just natural run-off from an un-natural grade.

To have a lower garage floor you will have to adjust your entry design to keep water, etc from entering the garage. At a minimum, I would think you would need a catch drain system in front of the doors. Changing the entry design could also have an impact on clearance for any of your vehicles _ probably not 67, but what about something you might bring into the garage on a trailer?

Speaking of that, I'd propose that you try to have at least 1 garage door at the max height possible to accomodate taller vehicles. I would also propose that that bay, and maybe another also have a garage door on the opposite wall so you could actually pull through.

Finally, lowering the floor will also impact the design of any sewer or drain lines you will have in the garage ie bathroom, sinks, shower, wash bay drain.

This is really like an equation...what you do to one side will impact someplace else.

 

[MM-C5]

However, the maximum on the roof is 13.1 feet tall to the mid-point of hip roof. That means that the spot midway between the rain gutters and the highest point on the roof cannot be higher than 13.1 feet above grade.

Bob, most municipalities have a proceedure for requesting variences. You might want to explore that possibility. That's one of the areas where the big $$$ you pay to the architect is supposed to payoff.

T

 

[67HEAVEN]

Bob, most municipalities have a proceedure for requesting variences. You might want to explore that possibility. That's one of the areas where the big $$$ you pay to the architect is supposed to payoff.

T

I just arrived at that conclusion while on the throne. Do my best thinking there.

 

[67HEAVEN]

If I only requested the variance to allow for one bay to be taller, I might just get it.

Here's an example. Mine would have the width for three lower bays, rather than the two shown here.

Hmmmm.....