Help! exploding fuel filter

[jswope]

I had performance problems on my 74. Guy that installed the Edelbrock performer before I bought it, did not put a filter on it. To save a step I replaced the carb with the same model (new) and installed the recommended inline edelbrock filter (aluminum case with long paper filter). Solved problems for a short time then started running rough at low idle. Tired various things and finally revisited the filter and found it had exploded inside the holder sending pieces of filter and trash into my brand new carb.ad (less than 500 miles). I am guessing that I need to clean the carb or have it cleaned. Is this worth trying to do myself or should I take it to a pro? Is it possible that I can just open it up and clean the debris out and give it a try back on the car? If I do open it up, is there some area to look at first or should I assume the whole thing needs cleaning and dive in head first?

 

[jswope]

Update . . . .I tore into the carb . . . .what a mess! It had a lot of orange gel in it. I cleaned it out as best I could. I am guessing this is from water in the gas. Replaced the exploded filter with a new one with a glass case so I can see what is happening in there. It is late and the side pipes tend to wake up everyone for miles and my granddaughter's bedroom is only about twenty feet away in the house next door, so I will not get to try it until morning.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Just a word of caution about the glass filters.
They are more likely to break than a metal filter, and you really don't need gas spraying out on a running engine do you?
Glad you found the problem. But get rid of that glass filter housing ASAP.
As far as the orange stuff going into the carb.
It will be in the float valve before anything.It will probably result in the float valve clogging or sticking open. If it clogs, you won't get any gas into the carb.
If it sticks open, the gas will pour out the top of the carb.
If it gets past that, it will be in the float bowl and can clog your metering jets.

 

[gmjunkie]

Just a word of caution about the glass filters.
They are more likely to break than a metal filter, and you really don't need gas spraying out on a running engine do you?
Glad you found the problem. But get rid of that glass filter housing ASAP.

I agree!!

 

[glen242]

Don't remember what era(s), '50's, '60's, '70's, but most cars had bronze or ceramic fuel filter elements in glass bowls. Did not hear much, if anything, about fires caused by the glass filters.

Anyone got any evidence, except hearsay, drivein talk, of a street car catching fire lately because of a failed glass filter?

 

[JohnZ]

Don't remember what era(s), '50's, '60's, '70's, but most cars had bronze or ceramic fuel filter elements in glass bowls. Did not hear much, if anything, about fires caused by the glass filters.

Anyone got any evidence, except hearsay, drivein talk, of a street car catching fire lately because of a failed glass filter?

The glass-bowl fuel filters on C1's were solidly-mounted to the carbs and all the plumbing was steel lines with SAE inverted flare fittings - nothing flopping around loose. Yes, I know of several cars that have burned to the ground due to failed aftermarket Bubba glass filters using rubber hoses and clamps; I shake my head every time I see one of those setups on the pressure side of the fuel pump. There's a filter in the tank at the pickup, and another one in the carb inlet - you don't need a third one. There's a reason the OEM fuel systems are all steel from the pump to the carb.

 

[jswope]

Thanks for the input. I agree and do not like the glass filters. At the same time I got the glass one I picked up the same type only with an aluminum case. The glass one both were cheap and only ment to be temp. I wanted to see what was going to the carb. As far as having external filters goes, my Edelbrock performer does not have an inlet filter and if there is any thing in the tank it is not doing its job. With the glass filter I am preventing a considerable amount of trash and water from getting to the carb. I will be emptying and dropping the tank tonight in hope of giving it a thoughrogh cleaning. We have a drivein this weekend and would like to drivein. One thing for all to note. If you are like me and feel the need to add a filter (or two). Do not use a paper one that has the fuel enter though the end into the center of the filter and exit through to the outside. If (when) they get clogged or just very dirty the pump pressure will blow them apart and send whatever they had filtered out racing to your carb. Hence, I am sticking to filters that when fully used up will stop flow and protect my carb, like the brass or ceramic.

 

[glen242]

The glass-bowl fuel filters on C1's were solidly-mounted to the carbs and all the plumbing was steel lines with SAE inverted flare fittings - nothing flopping around loose. Yes, I know of several cars that have burned to the ground due to failed aftermarket Bubba glass filters using rubber hoses and clamps; I shake my head every time I see one of those setups on the pressure side of the fuel pump. There's a filter in the tank at the pickup, and another one in the carb inlet - you don't need a third one. There's a reason the OEM fuel systems are all steel from the pump to the carb.

Was the fire(s) caused by the hoses and clamps or a failure of the glass itself?

 

[L48]

Don't know if you ran it or not since you cleaned the carb, but sounds to me like you should probably drain the tank and start over with fresh gas. You could have a bunch of junk in the tank and have to go through this hassle several more times, well at least replacing the filter a few more times, to get it cleared up.

 

[jswope]

Yep, lots o' junk (mostly water). I just finished draining the tank, removing the tank, getting mad because only a couple of unreadable pieces of the build sheet were still on the tank, cleaning the tank, reinstalling the tank, running some fresh gas through the lines and pump and back into a gas can (bypassed carb). I do not know how the thing ran at all with all that water and crud in there. Its late and still need to get up and put in my eight hours at my real job (so I can pay for this mess). I will try to start tomorrow. If all goes well I will joining our club for a ride into the sunset.

 

[JohnZ]

Was the fire(s) caused by the hoses and clamps or a failure of the glass itself?

Don't know- there wasn't enough left to tell. The glass is a failure mode, and so are the rubber hoses; that's why neither exist in the pressure side of the OEM fuel system.

 

[L48]

getting mad because only a couple of unreadable pieces of the build sheet were still on the tank,

Too bad about that. All the rest is fixable.

 

[jswope]

all most fixed

Started her up today and she was still running rough. Fuel flowing out of primaries. Thought that I may still have sticking floats. After running a while fuel stopped leaking on the drivers side and slowed down on the pass. side. Could not get the carb to run smooth. Then I read on another thread that the Edelbrock 1406 does not like over 5.5 lbs fuel pressure. I added a pressure regulator and she started running much better. I still have an intermittent rough idle though. Runs like a new car for a while then for no reason I can find she drops about 200 to 300 rpm at idle in neutral or park drops to about 500 in gear. Otherwise runs great. When feels like it she is right on specs for idle RPM. Just can not find the problem. replaced plugs wires ect. as well as most of the fuel system. Out of ideas.

 

[L48]

Maybe your vaccuum advance is not working properly. Try disconnecting it and adjusting the idle up to compensate, then see what happens. It might not idle as smooth, but should be consistent.

Also maybe the centrigual advance in the distributor is hanging up a little.

 

[jswope]

looks like it is fixed.

After putting the regulator on and setting it to 5.5 pounds everything got better for a short time. So I tried to adjust the idle and as soon as I moved the passenger side idle screw it started acting just as before, rough idle, trying to stall when in gear and not pressing on gas pedal. :bash I that point I gave up and went to bed. This morning I tried reducing the pressure a little more, to 4.5. This worked like a charm. We drove it all day (over 100 miles), went on a cruise with the club, then went to a show threw up the hood and sat back and enjoyed the show not caring about any judging or awards. Just being able to drive her to the event and back was reward enough.
It appears that the main problem all along has been too much fuel pressure. The other stuff needed to be done (except replacing fuel pump) but did not solve the rough idle.

 

[Heavy Duty]

Good read jswope. I am in the middle of R&R my engine and I too have the Performer RPM package.

I've do a lot of research on the Edelbrock carbs and you are right in that they don't like a lot of pressure...just plenty of fuel flow. So to feed the hungry horses I went with a Holly Blue elec. fuel pump. The free flow of this pump is 110 GPH a 9 PSI. With the regulator that came with it the pump is rated at 70 GPH at 14 PSI. I mounted the pump on the front side of the rear bumper frame with a fuel filter and shut-off valve ahead of it. I did use rubber hose at that point since the pump is at the rear of the car away from the exhaust. At the front by the engine I used a bypass regulator. I don't like the idea of not having a bypass. The regulator that came with the pimp did not have that feature and since the OEM had a bypass I elected to do the same. I have my regulator set at 5 PSI. Although I haven't fired up the new engine I felt like that would be a good starting point. I did use the braided hose up front going from the regulator to the carb and from the supply line to the regulator. That is the last place I want a gas leak since everything sets near the headers.

The OEM pump did have rubber hose going to the mechanical fuel pump and pump to return line. But the line going from the pump to the carb was steel. So I did the same thing.


HD

 

[L48]

OK just re-read your post about the pressure problem, and somehow I conveniently skipped all the parts that indicated too much fuel pressure. Retracting vacuum comments.

Nice work

 

[Koop]

I had some issues with pressure causing flooding or starving. It was a combination of a non vented gas cap and a kink in a return line. (Early C3's require a vented gas cap)