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News: Gail's first week in the paint shop

Buck,

How have you been? Long time no hear!:upthumbs

DarkShark, sorry last time you were in town, it did not work out for us to meet. The same happens to me when I go other places to visit family.

But, family comes first, and when one is doing the visiting, one is at the hands of family member's time table. :beer

Thank you both for the comments. I am so giddy with Gail, that I still peek in on her in the garage whenever my grin relaxes...just to grin-up again!:D

GerryLP:cool
 
Hey Gerry! First time caller to this thread... :L
Congrats on the new paint job. Certainly can't complain for the price paid! I remember when I had Evo painted for the first time. (Actually, this is the first time ever I've referred to my car as any name but 'my car'. Interesting (to me))
Anyways, I remember when I first saw the paint job. I was in awe. Liquid glass!

If you already covered it in a previous post here, I apologize, I didn't read every post as I'm at work, but I thought I'd throw out a couple things here.
- I'm assuming they told you about how to handle the paint for the first 90 days? No waxes, but polishes are OK, that kinda thing?
- You might want to check your rear gas cap emblem. Mine was put on after the paint had dried, but because the paint was still 'curing', it left an impression of itself in the paint. Not that that's a bad thing per se because that's what goes there anyways, but it something to be aware of.
- I didn't see if they painted the door jambs and under the hood. If they did under the hood, check your spring-mounted bump-stops near the the hood latches. Mine also left an impression in the paint.
- For taking pictures...cars typically photograph terribly in the shade / or shadows of buildings. Park in bright sunlight for the best, glossy paint pics. And try to have the sun at your back or off to the side. Shade washes out everything. As well, since you still have new paint, I wouldn't be parking it under any tree, as many trees will rain small sap particulates that will require some rubbing to get them removed. And you want to avoid that kinda thing right now. Let it bake in the sun... Trees ain't gonna keep the car from getting dusty, so my opinion (with fresh paint) is to not have it under trees.

Other than that, again, looks great from here! Can't wait to see it in BG @ CF-VI!

:thumb
 
Aside from the wavy font bumper looks nice. I'm going to send my vette to maaco as well. It's just going to be a daily driver so no need for a highend paint job that will get chipped at work anyways.
 
Hey Gerry! First time caller to this thread... :L
...(Actually, this is the first time ever I've referred to my car as any name but 'my car'. Interesting (to me))

Don't worry, it will happen more often...:eyerole;LOL

evolution1980 said:
- I'm assuming they told you about how to handle the paint for the first 90 days? No waxes, but polishes are OK, that kinda thing?

You know what, Andre, I know very little what to do about the pampering that she needs after this paint job. They told me not to do anything for another 3 weeks (one more week to go). After that, they said that I could us the car cover I bought her. Also, what is the difference between a wax and a polish (as far as paint finishes is concerned);shrug.

evolution1980 said:
- You might want to check your rear gas cap emblem. Mine was put on after the paint had dried, but because the paint was still 'curing', it left an impression of itself in the paint. Not that that's a bad thing per se because that's what goes there anyways, but it something to be aware of.

Thanks for the tip, Andre. I have been looking for an NOS emblem for her gas lid.

evolution1980 said:
- I didn't see if they painted the door jambs and under the hood. If they did under the hood, check your spring-mounted bump-stops near the the hood latches. Mine also left an impression in the paint.

I asked them if they would smooth the underside of the hood for a later-to-be-painted design, but they told me that they would rather not mess with that kind of custom work. I have been looking for a person who can really revive the underside of the hood. I would like to put the L81 Checkered flags emblem underneath there.

evolution1980 said:
- For taking pictures...cars typically photograph terribly in the shade / or shadows of buildings. Park in bright sunlight for the best, glossy paint pics. And try to have the sun at your back or off to the side. Shade washes out everything. As well, since you still have new paint, I wouldn't be parking it under any tree, as many trees will rain small sap particulates that will require some rubbing to get them removed. And you want to avoid that kinda thing right now. Let it bake in the sun... Trees ain't gonna keep the car from getting dusty, so my opinion (with fresh paint) is to not have it under trees.

All excellent points! It is just my habit when in temperatures of 95 (F.) plus degrees outside on that day. That is the other sport around here in the desert..."get-that-shade-from-that-tree-before-anyone else-does competition...;LOL

evolution1980 said:
Other than that, again, looks great from here! Can't wait to see it in BG @ CF-VI!
:thumb

Thanks Andre! I will definitely go next year to BG. Last time i got there too late for the factory tour....:confused:ugh;squint:
 
Aside from the wavy font bumper looks nice. I'm going to send my vette to maaco as well. It's just going to be a daily driver so no need for a highend paint job that will get chipped at work anyways.


Just like in any other shop, ask lots of questions, and gage what they're saying with what you see around the shop. Ask them to see their current Corvette jobs or projects.:thumb

GerryLP:cool
 
Gerry,

A wax will seal the paint and not allow gases to excape as the paint cures. If you want to put anything on it to make it shiney get a glaze from the automotive paint store that is used to detail fresh paint. Products I like are 3M Fil and Glaze and 3M Imperial Micro polish and Imperial Glaze which are designed for base/clear finishes. The Micro Polish will take out fine scratches and either of the glazes will give the finish a high level of shine without any wax or sealer.

They are designed for machine application but I hand apply them too, about 1 square foot at at time. You don't let Fil and Glaze dry. Wipe on and wipe right back off.
Tom
 
You know what, Andre, I know very little what to do about the pampering that she needs after this paint job. They told me not to do anything for another 3 weeks (one more week to go). After that, they said that I could us the car cover I bought her. Also, what is the difference between a wax and a polish (as far as paint finishes is concerned);shrug.
Tom pretty much covered it above.
Few people except the pros have heard of 'em, but Wizards seems to be the product I've seen in most paint shops. The shop that painted my car the first time and then ACI who just did my new front bumper rely soley on Wizards products. I always thought it woulda been Meguiars or Mothers, but nope...Wizards!

For quick touchups & general maintenance, I use Mothers "Showtime" instant detailing spray. I'll apply it before I go out and it creates a nice, smooth surface which helps keeps bugs & stuff from sticking. You can use it on your paint as it is. Spray on, and then do like Daniel-san, the "wax on...wax off" routine. Meguiars has their detailing spray as well, but I like Mothers a little bit better.

Regarding your hood, I'm guessing the shop didn't feel like removing the hood, hanging it, and doing all the extra work required. Did they do the door jambs and everything? I noticed in the pics it looks like they still had the door glass and t-tops on which led me to believe they may not have done the jambs, nooks, & crannies. But again, for under $3k, I wouldn't be complaining!
 
....Regarding your hood, I'm guessing the shop didn't feel like removing the hood, hanging it, and doing all the extra work required. Did they do the door jambs and everything? I noticed in the pics it looks like they still had the door glass and t-tops on which led me to believe they may not have done the jambs, nooks, & crannies. But again, for under $3k, I wouldn't be complaining!

The door jams were in excellent condition, so I had them just blend it in, and they came out great. But, like you said...the price was awesome.

This past weekend, I retouched/cleaned/painted the spare tire carrier and the exhaust, which had some over spray. Cleaned-up the short axles and spring. I want to keep that clean look on the Vette from behind...:thumb

I am planning to mask the engine bay and fenders and windshield and the hood's top side, so that I can sand the underside of the hood (lightly, not aggressively) and paint it with low gloss black (until I find someone to dress it up for me :)).
 
Tom / Andre,

Thanks for the polishing tips. I went out a couple of nights ago, and purchased some Meguire's polish (all that AUtozone had at the moment). WOW! What a difference. I have always used wax before, but it was nice to just clean the cloth I used and save it for next time.:thumb

Gail looks spiffy!!:L

GerryLP:cool
 
Gerry, here's another tip for you. When using rags that you've washed, dry them separate from your regular laundry. Or more directly, don't dry them with any type of fabric softener (dryer sheet). I've been told they leave a residue on the fabric and that over a period of time of using them on the car, the fabric softener chemical or whatever will transfer to the paint.
Look at your dryer's lint tray. Even though it's clean, you'll notice it gets a buildup of some substance. That's from the dryer sheets. That eventually gets transferred to your paint and dulls it (if ever so slightly).

In order to get fluffy soft rags without using fabric softener or dryer sheets, I dry my rags on the lowest heat setting. Check them occasionally and take them out as soon as they are done. If they have a hint of moisture, that's OK.
If you do that ("low heat") and you find they still come out kinda crispy or rough, on the next batch, dry them until they are just about dry. Take them out, finish with an air dry. Then toss 'em all back in and tumble dry them (no heat) for about 15 minutes. They should come out soft. :thumb

...ya know, wasn't it just easier when Gail wasn't all prettied up??? :L She's so much more high maintenance now in her new clothes and makeup! :L
 
Gerry, here's another tip for you. :thumb

...ya know, wasn't it just easier when Gail wasn't all prettied up??? :L She's so much more high maintenance now in her new clothes and makeup! :L

You can say that again!

Gerry, here's another tip for you. :thumb

...ya know, wasn't it just easier when Gail wasn't all prettied up??? :L She's so much more high maintenance now in her new clothes and makeup! :L

Andre,

Thanks for the tips. Keep them coming! I am perhaps in the 6th grade when it comes to detailing a Vette.

I even got the corners of my work bench stuffed for cushioning and wrapped in very soft cloth in case the door slips away from me. :L

Today, I found a guy locally who owns 3 corvettes, and has worked them for a long time (got a tour of his garage; frames; body parts; glassware; components; 78 S/A with 16,000 miles), he has a mint driver-side original T-Top. Wants $350 dollars plus my broken one. What do you think?
 

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