Question: Half-Shaft Installation

[petes74ttop]

Vette79, I can't believe we are 20 posts into this. You have enough mechanical ability to do a top end rebuild, that's an 8 of 10 on the difficulty scale. Rear shocks are a 1, replacing the half shafts is a 2. Just loosen the french locks and remove the bolts. You may find it easier to remove the outboard bolts 1 at a time from the bottom and the inboard bolts 1 at a time from the top. Once all the bolts are removed pull out on the tail light end of the trailing arm. If there is not enough room to drop the outboard side of the half shaft then mark and rotate the camber bolt so you have enough room. Install the new half shaft, bolt it in, bend over the new french locks and re set the camber bolts.
Any shop can reset your camber.
The toe is adjusted at the front of the trailing arms and shops avoid that because there is too much labor because they don't have new shims and they don't have the proper bushing or the tools to install it.
Go for it, you'll be done in less that 1 hour and your new u joints will last another 20 years. PG.

 

[Vette79]

Vette79, I can't believe we are 20 posts into this. You have enough mechanical ability to do a top end rebuild, that's an 8 of 10 on the difficulty scale. Rear shocks are a 1, replacing the half shafts is a 2. Just loosen the french locks and remove the bolts. You may find it easier to remove the outboard bolts 1 at a time from the bottom and the inboard bolts 1 at a time from the top. Once all the bolts are removed pull out on the tail light end of the trailing arm. If there is not enough room to drop the outboard side of the half shaft then mark and rotate the camber bolt so you have enough room. Install the new half shaft, bolt it in, bend over the new french locks and re set the camber bolts.
Any shop can reset your camber.
The toe is adjusted at the front of the trailing arms and shops avoid that because there is too much labor because they don't have new shims and they don't have the proper bushing or the tools to install it.
Go for it, you'll be done in less that 1 hour and your new u joints will last another 20 years. PG.

Yes, Yes, I know. Waiting on the french locks, shims, and the weather. I was asking John about the rearend camber adjustment. Could any shop do this? I agree, it should be an easy task especially if I can do a top-end rebuild. How about you come over and do it for me???

 

[petes74ttop]

Weather is a big factor, I want to replace a window regulator but that will have to wait untill spring. I won't come to you but your welcome to pack up your parts and your better half and spend a few days in Mount Holly, we'll fill you up with biscuts and gravy, fried chicken and a little shine to wash it down. Pete. AKA PG.

 

[73shark]

Re: camber adjustment - Any competent alignment shop should be able to do it. (but as I stated earlier, so can you). Rear toe adjustment is another matter because usually the shim pack has morphed into one big rusty chunk of iron and the bolt has to be cut out and replaced. There's aftermarket stainless steel shims, bolts and cotter pins. So if you want to get the toe done, then should plan on replacing these parts first unless this car has either never rusted up or has already had the parts replaced.

Good luck and PG's description for the half shafts was spot on.

 

[petes74ttop]

Page 4f sheet 1 in the aim has a good picture. Part # 10 is the strut rod adjustment bolt, the big washer makes it an eccentric. When you turn it one way the strut rod and trailing arm moves out, turning that bolt the other way moves everything in. PG.

 

[Vette79]

Page 4f sheet 1 in the aim has a good picture. Part # 10 is the strut rod adjustment bolt, the big washer makes it an eccentric. When you turn it one way the strut rod and trailing arm moves out, turning that bolt the other way moves everything in. PG.

Now if I only had an AIM! I do have a shop manual.

 

[73shark]

Corvette Service Manual Page 4-5, figure 5 also shows this.

 

[Vette79]

Well, the half shafts are out. I have to say that it was not easy. I spent a couple of hours just trying to free the inner u-bolts. Obviously, they have never been removed. My knuckles feel really good right now...lol. Unclear whether there really was any real procedure to follow with the removal. Now for the installation. Does anyone have any specifics on torque settings for the inner u-bolts and the outer flange?

 

[73shark]

Per Shop Manual: Axle Drive Shaft to Spindle - 75 ft-lb, To yoke - 15 ft-lb, Universal Joint Companion Flange - 15 ft-lb.

 

[Vette79]

Per Shop Manual: Axle Drive Shaft to Spindle - 75 ft-lb, To yoke - 15 ft-lb, Universal Joint Companion Flange - 15 ft-lb.

So, 15 ft-lbs for both the u-bolts and the flange.

 

[JohnZ]

So, 15 ft-lbs for both the u-bolts and the flange.

Nope. The nuts on the U-bolts at the inboard end are 15 ft-lbs., and the bolts to the spindle flange at the outboard end are 75 ft-lbs.

 

[Vette79]

Nope. The nuts on the U-bolts at the inboard end are 15 ft-lbs., and the bolts to the spindle flange at the outboard end are 75 ft-lbs.

John,

Thanks for clarifying. After work today I will be re-installing the half shafts. Hopefully they go up easier then how they came down...lol...I'll probably post a pic or two at some point afterwords. I will also report on my side yoke movement and whether they are still within specs. I can say that I can not remove them from the Diff Housing so the clips must still be on.

 

[Vette79]

Is there an easy way to tq the inner u-bolts to 15 ft lbs? I can seem to get a tq wrench on it. Just a open end wrench.

 

[73shark]

Really snug. You can also clamp the square drive in a vise and grab it at the length of your open end wrench and see how much force it takes to break-over at 15 ft-lb. Sort of calibrating your arm.

 

[Vette79]

Half shafts went up pretty easy. I destroyed one french lock and still need to tq inner u-bolts to approximately 15 ft lbs. I hopefully will finish this evening if I can locate a french lock. Thanks for all the help.