I guess my back is against the wall....

[vetteboy86]

I dont have alot of money, in fact 3000 is probably the most I could afford. What is involved with doing the stroker. I know the heads would have to be done, and then a new cam. Does that rotating assembly have everything I need short of the valve train. I think to get the heads done it is about 750. I am thinking about buying an intake.

I was looking at the sealed power rebuild kits in summit, and they want like 370 bucks. I didn't see the connecting rods in the kit though. That price is with forged pistons. What will the connecting rods run me?

 

[MoeJr]

You do not need new Connecting Rods unless there is something wrong with yours. Buy whatever master rebuild kit you want and have the engine rebuilt. Do not try and build the engine you want on a budget cause it hardly ever works out the way you want. You are better off rebuilding your engine stock and later on buying another L98 to build the way you want over time and swap when it is done.

 

[vetteboy86]

Yeah that is what I want to do. I saw the sealed power kits in summit that looked good, for the 350 chevy. This place you recommended says they do not have a specific kit for this application. They asked me questions like the 8th digit on my vin code, and what kind of pistons are in the car now, and what the cam spec is. This has to be easier then what it is turning out to be. I just want the rebuild it stock, with good parts that will last a long time. The connecting rods I have with the engine now will work if the crank is turned. I also might think of a procharger or something in the future, and would like good parts.

So what do you think?

 

[Edmond]

If you're going to rebuild it, why rebuild it stock? It takes the same amount of work to put a 350 stock or a hopped up 350 back in the engine bay. Build it so it'll run like a mother right now and years from now.

If you rebuild it stock, you'll eventually get to the point where you wished that you put the higher performing parts in. Do it once and do it right.

$3,000 is a lot of money to work with if you're creative. It's not a fortune but it's not chump change.

 

[Chris Kennedy]

O.K., I am going to say it: You're getting in WAY over your head. Think about it: Struggling college student has three cars, refuses to sell either of the two, but is shopping some pretty high performance parts on a limited budget seemingly oblivious to the fact that speed merchants are always trying to sell you some "special" part saying that it will make your life complete. The biggest challenge and expense is often getting all these parts to work together reliably and smoothly when you get the engine back. At that point, the speed merchants will try and sell you something else to fix the problem their recommendation originally created. Really, do yourself a favor and simply get the engine rebuilt stock if you go the rebuild route. You know everything works together very well and it's not like our Corvettes are struggling with power. You will also save yourself the agony of another anguished thread where you ask for help to sort out the mess.

/s/ Chris Kennedy

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

O.K., I am going to say it: You're getting in WAY over your head. Think about it: Struggling college student has three cars, refuses to sell either of the two, but is shopping some pretty high performance parts on a limited budget seemingly oblivious to the fact that speed merchants are always trying to sell you some "special" part saying that it will make your life complete. The biggest challenge and expense is often getting all these parts to work together reliably and smoothly when you get the engine back. At that point, the speed merchants will try and sell you something else to fix the problem their recommendation originally created. Really, do yourself a favor and simply get the engine rebuilt stock if you go the rebuild route. You know everything works together very well and it's not like our Corvettes are struggling with power. You will also save yourself the agony of another anguished thread where you ask for help to sort out the mess.

/s/ Chris Kennedy

This is very good advice (what? I'm agreeing with Chris? LOL)... You're best off going with a stock rebuild to avoid any future issues. Have a competent machine shop measure the bore for excessive wear BEFORE ordering any piston/ring kits. An overbore of .030 is all I'd go if necessary, simply for a better fitting set of pistons. Forged pistons are strong, yes, but they have to be set up a bit "loose" in the bores (they expand differently than cast or hypereutectic) and can be a bit noisy on cold startup. Stick with a stock camshaft (you can reuse the original..it's a roller) and don't worry about modifying anything else for the time being.

Good luck to you.

 

[Vettefan87]

O.K., I am going to say it: You're getting in WAY over your head. Think about it: Struggling college student has three cars, refuses to sell either of the two, but is shopping some pretty high performance parts on a limited budget seemingly oblivious to the fact that speed merchants are always trying to sell you some "special" part saying that it will make your life complete. The biggest challenge and expense is often getting all these parts to work together reliably and smoothly when you get the engine back. At that point, the speed merchants will try and sell you something else to fix the problem their recommendation originally created. Really, do yourself a favor and simply get the engine rebuilt stock if you go the rebuild route. You know everything works together very well and it's not like our Corvettes are struggling with power. You will also save yourself the agony of another anguished thread where you ask for help to sort out the mess.

/s/ Chris Kennedy

Craig said in post #33 that rebuilding the numbers matching motor stock is the most sensible idea. I don't know why he should have to sell any of his cars, for somebody else's mistake. Selling his Trans Am is completely out of the question, that car is sweet . I regret not buying it instead of my vette :L, and if he sells the 4Runner he has nothing to drive in the winter.

 

[Vettelt193]

The one thing I have said time and time again about doing engine mods: figure out what you want as an end product with your given budget.

Your budget right now may be 'split' meaning, you want to build the engine to supercharge, but won't actually supercharge it for another year or so. The fact is, now is the time to think things through. If you know you are going to supercharge it, then build the engine to be supercharged (i.e. lower compression etc.)

The bottom line is figure out how much you are willing to spend long term and short term, then get a realistic power range for the level of $$ you are going to spend, then pick a balanced part list from there. By doing it like this, you will wind up with what you hope for.

No matter what, with a limited budget, I strongly suggest a mild build over stock (but do not suggest stock because it is a waste of $$ IMHO). Don't go buck wild over crazy pistons, cams, etc., just get parts that are a bit better than stock and you will be fine.

 

[MoeJr]

I again will second doing just a stock rebuild and be done with it and enjoy. Never try and do a High performance Engine on a budget as it hardly ever costs what you think it will. Wait till finances are better to build another L98 modded the way you want. Thats the most sensible way to go IMHO.

 

[vetteboy86]

All I want to do is build a stock engine. My problem is finding parts that are better then stock, ie. the forged pistons. Is there anything wrong with having better bearings then what orginally came with the car, or any part for that matter? At this point I want it back on the road, and I will worry about building an engine later.

So can anyone suggest parts bo put my motor back together? I am needing name brands more so then anything.

 

[Vettelt193]

All I want to do is build a stock engine. My problem is finding parts that are better then stock, ie. the forged pistons. Is there anything wrong with having better bearings then what orginally came with the car, or any part for that matter? At this point I want it back on the road, and I will worry about building an engine later.

So can anyone suggest parts bo put my motor back together? I am needing name brands more so then anything.

if you want stock, you can get 'better' parts as long as they are the same specs as stock. better bearings should be just fine, but with pistons you will change the way the engine runs unless you get the same specs.

In all honesty, I really think it is a waste of money to rebuild an engine to stock specs. Numbers matching doesn't really mean anything on C4's (IMHO) and rebuilding by a local mechanic may lead to many problems if not done properly. for under 1000 you could get an engine already rebuilt by a company that specializes in rebuilds or get a used L98... this means you won't be out of pocket nearly as much. Try to take a step back and look at the whole situation again before making a final decision.

Whatever you pick, good luck on everything... I know it is a real PITA

 

[Vettefan87]

So who sells the stock components?

 

[Edmond]

Have you checked Jeg's and Summit?

 

[vetteboy86]

Summit has a sealed power kit. My question is about the piston size. It says they are for a chevy 350 67-93. Well what will the diameter of my cylinder be if I go .030 over. So I guess I have to do the work first and then find parts.

The question at hand is the brand name of parts I put back in the car?

 

[Edmond]

Displacement will be 355 if you go .30 over using the stock crank. If you use a 400 crank, it's a 383.

As for brand name, I'm not sure on that one but I've heard that Federal Mogul isn't too bad.

 

[Edmond]

Sorry, that should be .030 and the stock size is 4. so going .030 over would be 4.030 x 3.75 stroke.

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

Sealed Power components (owned by the Dana corp) are considered stock replacement parts. I've built many an engine with them with no problems at all... For good pricing, Summit or Jegs is probably your answer. Alternatively, you can ask your local machinist who can most likely sell you the hard parts as well and save you some $$$ that way too.


YMMV

 

[Hrtbeat1]

Sorry, that should be .030 and the stock size is 4. so going .030 over would be 4.030 x 3.75 stroke.

Stock stroke for a Chevy 350 is 3.48 inches. 3.75 inches is the stroke for a "stroker" crank ... ie 383.

 

[Edmond]

Stock stroke for a Chevy 350 is 3.48 inches. 3.75 inches is the stroke for a "stroker" crank ... ie 383.

Whoops, thinking too far ahead there. You can see what motor my mind is set on.

 

[vetteboy86]

Alright, thanks alot guys