I now own my first Vette

[Tom Bryant]

That looks like a lot of fun. Just what I need to keep me off the street. :L

Yes it appears to be a matching number car. The trans, differential, carb, exhaust manifolds, distributor, ect, ect, all have codes on them too that need to fall into the picture but the engine is the biggy. The NCRS Pocket Specification Guide 1968-1982 is an excellent source to use in locating codes and what they mean.

Tom

 

[AColbe01]

Thanks for joining us, these old cars are fun and addicting. Keep us updated as to whats happening.


Don't forget to wave!

Andy

 

[Ratmotortom]

Welcome aboard ! Many Corvettes ago, my first one was a 1976 !!!

 

[chevy6673]

Hi Altered. Welcome to the CAC..

The Grant Products part number for the 1976 Corvette steering wheel instalation kit is 4193. With this kit you can mount virtually any of the hords of Grant steering wheels on your car and the horn ect. work as they are supposed to. I'd check to see if there is any problem if you car is equiped with option code N37 Tilt and Telescopic Steering Column.

As for the numbers you will notice that the VIN is repeated on the block stamping indicating that it is the engine installed at St. Louis originally.

The V starting the engine stamping number makes it a Flint small block which is right for a Corvette. The V was used for Flint engines starting in 1967.

The 0224 is the build date of the engine: 02 (Feb) 24 (24th).

CKW suffix says it is a L48 Federal emissions, 180 horsepower with a 4 speed.

The first part of the VIN just says it is a Corvette coupe made in St Louis.

The last 5 digits of your VIN tells us that your car was built on March 2nd, 1976 which is perfect for your engine dates. This is all of the info you can gleen from a Corvette VIN.

It looks like you made a good deal.

BTW Got any pics of the 23T altered? I love these things.

Tom

hello guys did u say grants i win a 200.00 doller gift card fot there products last week you could have it for 150.00 if you like if so drop me a line ... mike

 

[Altered]

That looks like a lot of fun. Just what I need to keep me off the street. :L

Yes it appears to be a matching number car. The trans, differential, carb, exhaust manifolds, distributor, ect, ect, all have codes on them too that need to fall into the picture but the engine is the biggy. The NCRS Pocket Specification Guide 1968-1982 is an excellent source to use in locating codes and what they mean.

Tom

I am the 3rd owner and the 2nd owner knows the original owner (he worked with the guy). The tranny and rear end are the originals. I know the rear end has had many upgrades such as after market gears, axles, solid u-joints, some sort of a piece that allows a grease gun to be used to grease the bearings etc etc. The tranny is all stock and unopened. Also the manifolds are original but after that the entire exhaust has been replaced.
I wasn't looking for a #s matching car but if the car is actually worth keeping the original pieces I will. I don't want to ruin the car but I do want my car to run hard at least. I have always hated to see a "sports car" that my N/A small block 67 Chevy PU would smoke. (7.60s in the 1/8th mi.) Not sure it has to be that quick but 8s is a must. :cool
Man I really appreciate all the compliments from everyone it is really awesome having a resource like this.

 

[Scott Winebarger]

Congrats on the new addition to the family !

 

[Vette79]

Not sure it has to be that quick but 8s is a must. :cool

8s??? You must thinking about replacing the motor, training and differential. That's a hard number to get to from stock.

 

[Altered]

8s??? You must thinking about replacing the motor, training and differential. That's a hard number to get to from stock.

Yeah I think Im going to put my 427 BB in it and save the original. It already has 4.10 gears and all aftermarket internals in the rearend. So its not to far from having all the pieces. I just hate to mess it up. Of course this will be awhile as I want to fix the car first then work on making it run good.

I did work on it yesterday I got lucky the car had a miss when I got it but turned out the timing was too high, reset and waalaa smooth as a babys butt now. :crazy Oh it also had one port on the carb. open. I was taking a spacer out that I didnt like. Seems to run great now.

Jeff your car is way nice too I have a thing for black sports cars and Vetts are just sexy as he** in black IMO

 

[Eric]

Congrats on your new Shark! There's just something about those curves

 

[Evolution1980]

5. T-Tops leak not sure exactly the best way to do this. (I given new seals by the previous owner)
6. Driver seat seems loose at the rear mounting points. Ill have to investigate this one.
7. A/C needs to be recharged and or repaired its all there just doesn't work.

Welcome to the CAC, Altered!

#5 - New seals are nice, but they're still gonna leak. I think they were designed that way. :L Just kidding! Seriously though, I personally have never gotten my tops NOT to leak, even will all new seals. I just accept it now. :eyerole

#6 - Don't know about the 76's but on the 80's, there's just bolts that screw into fixed brackets on the underside. You should be able to see them by simply looking under the car at your floorboards.

#7 - Depending on the condition of the hoses and everything else, recharging the R12 system could be quite expensive due to the costs of R12. And if it's just gonna leak out due to old hoses, it gets even more expensive. If you plan on retrofitting to R134a, you'll likely want to do an entire overhaul due to the R134a molecules being smaller and thus leaking out even easier and quicker.
If you search the site, there was a thread within the past few months (year?) about one of our guys who did a full A/C setup. It might have been VietNamVet in his 67. He was really happy with the results and I know it definitely got noticed by a few other members.


You also mentioned about potentially keeping the SB L48 motor and putting in a BB. That'll definitely get you the bigger numbers that you are going to want, but you'll have to upgrade everything else up front, such as the suspension, pulleys, and possibly the radiator (among other things). You might want to consider for example a 383 or 396 small block. With the new crate engines, you can get really big numbers from the SB's without having to invest in all the other items needed for a BB engine. Just something to consider!

Again, welcome to the

 

[Altered]

Evolution1980 great post man thanks. I wasnt aware the ttops would always leak what a bummer. What is it a design flaw that cant be corrected? I dont even know where they leak the previous owner said they did so I believe him. Where are the normal places they leak?
I will check the bolts on the seat I hope thats all it is.
On the A/C I will have to check out the thread on that. I do not have all new hoses :ugh If I decide to fix it I will go the R134a route Im sure.
I have already been reading up on the BB swap. The main reason is I have a really nice 427 complete sitting on the stand just waiting to be installed. Steel crank, forged pistons, roller cam etc etc. Believe me I know all about smallblocks. I love them thats what I had in my 67 PU 408ci roller cam, Brodix heads, etc etc It was one fun engine. No offense but I wouldnt buy a crate engine. I have been building my own engines for over 20 yrs anything from stock to alky injected drag race. I guess for those that have not got the in depth knowledge to design and build them they are good alternatives just not my style.

 

[Vette79]

Yeah I think Im going to put my 427 BB in it and save the original. It already has 4.10 gears and all aftermarket internals in the rearend. So its not to far from having all the pieces. I just hate to mess it up. Of course this will be awhile as I want to fix the car first then work on making it run good.

I did work on it yesterday I got lucky the car had a miss when I got it but turned out the timing was too high, reset and waalaa smooth as a babys butt now. :crazy Oh it also had one port on the carb. open. I was taking a spacer out that I didnt like. Seems to run great now.

Jeff your car is way nice too I have a thing for black sports cars and Vetts are just sexy as he** in black IMO

Why, thank you Altered. I like black also and with that red leather interior, it really sets her off. My T-Tops do not leak so it is possible. Hey, good luck with the BB swap. Keep everything you remove in case you need to revert back.

 

[Evolution1980]

Evolution1980 great post man thanks. I wasnt aware the ttops would always leak what a bummer.

I was only joking about them always leaking. The glass tops which I have are a bit more notorious for leaking. The solid tops are more easily fixed from what I gather. But yes, they can be fixed not to leak. It might just be a real big P.I.T.A, or it might be a snap. Never know until ya try!

 

[Altered]

I was only joking about them always leaking. The glass tops which I have are a bit more notorious for leaking. The solid tops are more easily fixed from what I gather. But yes, they can be fixed not to leak. It might just be a real big P.I.T.A, or it might be a snap. Never know until ya try!

Oh my bad. I was just in the zone thinking serious, which for me is tough, but I thought you were serious. Glad to hear they possibly can be stopped. Any Ideas on what adhesive has worked best for you or should I just call 3M and get what they recommend. I havent had a chance to work on her any yesterday I might this evening check the seat issue a little. I tried to get the title swapped over today and as usual I didnt have the right stuff. :ugh I have to get it inspected first she said and get a green card of some sort. I immediately started thinking working outside is really changing my skin tone. But the title she said was signed correctly but since I traded a car with no VIN (race car) I could not use "trade" for tax purposes. ad Now I have to use the value of my car to figure the tax. IMO that just isnt right.

 

[pbcanney]

my glass ttops leaked like crazy. The f/g ones I have are tight as a drum!

 

[Altered]

Ok I did work on my car today. As I stated earlier I was told I had to have it inspected before I can get the title changed. Well I had a friend stop by after work to help me check things out. Low and behold I had no right turn signal in front or back. I also noticed I had no brake lights on the same pass. side. So after some time checking I found both sockets on the right hand side had loose ground wires. Well finally saving some junk paid off. I luckily remembered I had saved a rear wiring harness off some car we were scrapping and it had 2 of the sockets on it. Been saving that mess of wires for over 7 or 8 years. I wired them in and everything went to working great. So hopefully tomorrow I will get it inspected and the title changed over. I am having a pretty good time working on my car I hope I don't get burned out I have been driving it every evening what a cool car I been missing all these years.

Oh the seat has been fixed it was just not tight thanks for the tip on where the seat bolts down.

 

[Evolution1980]

Oh the seat has been fixed it was just not tight thanks for the tip on where the seat bolts down.

That's what we're here for!!!

 

[67HEAVEN]

That's what we're here for!!!

Huh? I thought we were here for the

 

[Altered]

Very nice car 67HEAVEN ! I am thinking about putting a 427 I have in my car but I have to fix all the other odds and ends first. :ugh

Well I worked on the car again today still not inspected yet though. It wasn't a good day. All I had to do was adjust the emergency brake and it was ready for inspection. Well I did that just fine but when I decided to test drive I had no reverse. ad Turns out the shifter rod came loose. I took it for a drive anyway I will fix that tomorrow and try to get a sticker for it. It was too late to fix and get to inspection station today.

 

[Altered]

Ok I got the shifter rod back on so I have reverse again. Man that one rod was wayyyy up in there and with 3" exhaust running right there it really was tight. Got it Inspected today also. Worked on the driver door hinge pins and replaced the bushings. Took 2 of us but we got it. Realigned the door and installed the hinge spring so the door is working great now. Slowly getting her back in shape.