mallory distributor 474B201A D70-9

[CFI-EFI]

Very interesting replies. Have been away for a week. To try to answer your very well thought out reply. This motor was a brand new rebuild. All cleaned up and out, freshly painted up, new freeze plugs and new motor mounts. Steel crank, mild cam, bigger heads. new pistons. Ported intake (crossfire), Larger throttle bodies. It looks and runs like a nice rebuild.I dropped the pan and checked it out. I ran the coolant until warm then emptied it by removing the hoses and the radiator. Radiator leaked when I got the car home. You were right about the type of radiator. I've heard of the train of thought that says, running with out a thermostat doesn't offer enough restriction or hold back to let the coolant have enough time in the radiator to cool off. It seems to make sense. I take it you agree, my friend. This car runs cooler with out the stat? Would it make any sense to put in the stat housing, as a restricter, (no guts). Thus allowing more time for the coolant to cool off in the radiator. Or start out with a fresh 160 stat? Having only 1500 miles on the motor I've owned for about a year, I guess it should run cooler after a few thousand more miles. The engine came with a 160 degree stat. I bought a 195, I believe; and didn't put it in because it ran so warm on the 160. I did also put in synthetic oil with a quart of lucas, if that matters. Thank you CFI for taking the time to reply. I don't type very fast nor explain very well. I really am thank full for your thoughts. I do sound a bit frumpy. I wish I had your savy. Maybe in a year and a half, when I hope to retire, I can learn more about these cars that were ahead of their time as compared to the rest of the 84 auto line up of their day.Thanks, Larry

First, ignore the ramblings of the uninformed and irrational sometimes hijackers. Some people seem to have diarrhea of the mouth, keyboard or whatever applies here. One such poster to this thread will pop up where ever I go to aggravate, belittle, disrupt, and in general cause havoc most anywhere I post. He knows little to nothing, but seems determined to pollute the knowledge pool with senseless, often harmful trash. Go back and review posts 7 through 14 of this thread for a reminder.

Now back to the subject at hand. Your new engine sounds like a great improvement. It should start to run cooler as it gets broken in. Usually synthetic oil is specifically NOT recommended in a new fresh rebuild. The reduced friction of synthetic oil can prolong or prohibit the seating of the piston rings.

As I stated above, a 160° thermostat is a poor idea in a car for normal use. No thermostat is a worse idea. Think about what a thermostat does. How it works and why they are used. They exist to facilitate engine warm up. They block the circulation of the coolant in the engine from passing through the radiator, until the engine is warmed up. No thermostat or a thermostat that opens too soon, delays that warm up. A thermostat doesn't regulate the max temp an engine can obtain. It only sets the minimum operating temp. When your engine is running too hot, a 160° stat, a 180° stat, and a 195° stat are ALL wide open. Your engine has to reach a certain minimum operating temperature, and maintain it long enough to purge the oil of normally occurring contaminants. Many of us don't drive our cars long enough to purge themselves under the best of conditions. Also, fuel economy and engine wear suffers at lower than optimum temps. Unless you have an engine that runs at the thermostat opening temp, changing to a cooler stat won't make the engine run one degree cooler. There is a fallacy to the coolant moving too fast with no stat theory, but because it is a bad idea in any case, there is no need to go into it. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!

 

[lbreen]

Thanks "C", I will change to conventional oil. Also will put in the 195 stat that's on the shelf. All the best Larry

 

[nelson84]

The low temp stat 160 justs opens sooner than the 195 to cool the engine. I put that in mine and it runs great, why would you want it running hot? Less power, overworking everything. As he stated above normal driving will not reach temperature hot enough to remove contaminents so why run extra hot when you could run cooler and have more power. This is a no brainer, get a 160 or a 180.

 

[lbreen]

As I said earlier, I had a 160 in there and it ran very warm. I may have had a bad 160. A proper test of a stat would be with a candy thermometer, and gradualy heat the water and see at what temp it opens. I believe this engine will run hot with any stat. I think it needs a larger radiator. A better cooling fan, than stock, also wouldn't hurt. I will run conventional oil, try a larger stat. If only on a short run. Then I may go with a cooler stat. Check air flow, larger radiator. maybe a bigger cooling fan. This along with braking it in shouldhelp cool down the big fella. LB

 

[CFI-EFI]

The low temp stat 160 justs opens sooner than the 195 to cool the engine.

That is one for Canamontana. A 160° thermostat opens at a lower temperature than a 195° thermostat. You don't miss a trick, do you? That, however, IS the problem. You continually demonstrate your lack of comprehension. Did you read, above, where I stated that the purpose of the thermostat was to help with quick warm ups? When the stat opens, the water is free to circulate through the radiator and the stat is no longer helping with the warm up process. The slower warm up will reduce the amount of time the engine runs at a proper temperature. Which, as explained, wastes fuel, increases cylinder wear, and reduces the amount of contaminants that will be purged.

I put that in mine and it runs great, why would you want it running hot?

That was answered in the previous post. Asking the same question over and over won't change the answer. If you can't comprehend, repeating it isn't going to help. There is a difference between a proper engine temperature and "hot". But I know that point is way beyond your comprehension.

Less power, overworking everything.

Wrong, as usual. This has been explained to you previously. You don't seem to have the mental capability to grasp the principle. You interject your nonsense where ever I post. You seem to enjoy following me all around the forums just to disrupt me helping people.

As he stated above normal driving will not reach temperature hot enough to remove contaminents so why run extra hot when you could run cooler and have more power.

Where did he (?) say, it wouldn't "reach temperature hot enough to remove contaminents"? More evidence of comprehension problems. Who suggested to "run extra hot"? Is it comprehension problems or dilusions? Running cooler than optimum does not give you more power, but as explained numerous times, it does waste fuel and increase engine wear. If that is your choice, for your car, fine, but don't confuse the issue, here, with your uninformed falsehoods.

This is a no brainer, get a 160 or a 180.

Yes. You are a "no brainer". The manner in which you state "get a..." are the same words you used to interrupt so many threads I posted in to promote the foolishness you hounded me daily, to buy. When I asked what it would do for me, you couldn't answer, but you sure did hound me relentlessly. For the record, a 180° thermostat is OK, depending on how your cooling system reacts.

If you are incapable of grasping the subject, either make an effort to read and understand. If then, you still "don't get it", fine, but don't pollute common sense with your uninformed and irrational ramblings. Good riddance.

RACE ON!!!

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[nelson84]

What ever.:eyerole

 

[Eric]

Nelson84 and CFI-EFI,

The two of you obviously have a history of locking horns on other sites. Those other sites may have tolerated the trolling comments and personal slights but that's not how things operate here as you no doubt saw in our Terms of Service, specifically the Rules of Conduct and User Agreement sections. Such posts detract from the subject of this, a technical thread, and distract other members who are trying to learn something. You need to check the baggage at the door and either figure out how to coexist or ignore one another. If you need assistance with the latter, simply go to your UserCP at the top of the page and then edit your Ignore List, adding the name of whomever you choose to ignore and you'll never see their posts again.

Simply put, keep the personal problems private and keep the posts on topic.

Eric Whitaker
CAC Community Administrator

 

[nelson84]

Nelson84 and CFI-EFI,

The two of you obviously have a history of locking horns on other sites. Those other sites may have tolerated the trolling comments and personal slights but that's not how things operate here as you no doubt saw in our Terms of Service, specifically the Rules of Conduct and User Agreement sections. Such posts detract from the subject of this, a technical thread, and distract other members who are trying to learn something. You need to check the baggage at the door and either figure out how to coexist or ignore one another. If you need assistance with the latter, simply go to your UserCP at the top of the page and then edit your Ignore List, adding the name of whomever you choose to ignore and you'll never see their posts again.

Simply put, keep the personal problems private and keep the posts on topic.

Eric Whitaker
CAC Community Administrator

erd:you better read the rules CFI-EFI!!!!!!

 

[Eric]

erd:you better read the rules CFI-EFI!!!!!!

nelson84,

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my post above, which was addressed to both of you. I suggest you take your own advice and read the rules yourself before you make pointed responses calling out another member in this manner.

Eric Whitaker
CAC Community Administrator

 

[nelson84]

nelson84,

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my post above, which was addressed to both of you. I suggest you take your own advice and read the rules yourself before you make pointed responses calling out another member in this manner.

Eric Whitaker
CAC Community Administrator

Makes sense