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Need Expert Help With Unusual C5 Oil Issues

You know, things have changed. 10W/40 used to be a common and pretty popular option back in the day for an oil with every day utility. Since then, I've had cars that specifically advise against using 10/40, and I haven't seen a manufacturer recommend it for a lot of years. I guess we can rack that up to improved viscosity enhancers in the lighter weight oils that make moving up to 40 weight unnecessary. That's all probably a good thing.



That would be CAFE. :)
 
:wI would be willing to bet that the problem is with "the blue GM Oil filter".
As found in these excellent threads, the old blue isnt what it used to be.
Try a Mobil-1 filter change using your existing (new) oil. :beer
 
10w30 ok, yes per GM

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p70/froggy47/10w30/10w-30005.jpg

This is from my 2004 owner's manual.

I have used both 5w30 and 10w30 and 10w40 with no issues in my ls6. My 95M3 loves 20w50.

The right oil for the way the engine is run and the ambient temps is what matters MUCH MORE than any government mandated oil. Lower levels of zddp and light weight oils are driven by EPA and CAFE government rules, not what is best for your engine. The mfg caves into the gov't agencies every year, more & more.

Just wanted to add some facts to the thread as there is a lot of misinformation in some of the previous posts.

:)

My guess is "bubba" at the Corvette shop put in 5 qts instead of 7. I alway add 7 and end up 1/2 qt over. 6.5 is probably exact on my ls6 motor.

Why the level went from none on the dipstick to 3/4 over with one qt is a puzzle?

I can't wait to see the threads when all these new dry sump motors start getting oil changes by owners or shops that don't have a clue.
 
What is the "misinformation?"
 
10/30 wasn't the issue - 10/40 was

It's amazing how some people blame the government for everything, but I have to admit this is the first time oil viscosity gets blamed on Uncle.
 
Here's The Answer...Close The Thread

:cool

41nOARRfmFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
10/30 wasn't the issue - 10/40 was

It's amazing how some people blame the government for everything, but I have to admit this is the first time oil viscosity gets blamed on Uncle.

With the millions of oil threads that have been started on various forums, I'll have to agree that this is a first. :L
 
10/30 wasn't the issue - 10/40 was

It's amazing how some people blame the government for everything, but I have to admit this is the first time oil viscosity gets blamed on Uncle.



I woudln't call it blaming the government, but more like crediting the government. Without emission and CAFE standards mandated by the Fed's, we would still be running 10W-40 or 20W-50 in our high performance engines and getting 8-12 mpg. Our hybrids run 0W-20 in their engines, and it isn't for superior oil related engine protection.:)
 
Don't y'all just love oil threads?

Do not use a 5W30 oil in your LS1 if you run autocrosses or track day road racing events.

Good is Mobil 1 10W30, Best is Red Line 10W30.

For racing, overfill by 1/2 to 1 qt. Obviously, when you do that, the oil level will read high. Once you're through racing, drain the overfill out. Do not overfill for street use.

LS1s use oil big-time when run for long periods above 4500 rpm. It's mainly a problem with crankcase ventilation rather than oil rings. The better the synthetic oil you use, the less of it you'll burn.

LT5s will use oil, too, when run that hard, but you typically do not overfill them.
 
Hi Hib,

Been a while since I visited this forum but it didn't take long to cause a controversy & of course it's an oil thread.

Still have the z16?

I'm not going to point out the misinformation in the thread as another forum member has requested, or try to explain how government mandates influence the cars that get built or the fluids that go in them. Books have been written on the subject, way too much to condense in this little thread and at the end of the day a closed mind will still remain unconvinced.

For the guys that love 5w30, prove it. Take your car out to your favorite track on a 90 plus degree day with stock radiator (and no oil cooler) and run a 25 minute session with the red group and let me know how that works out for you. Post it here. Don't cheat & peek at your oil pressure or oil temps, it'll all be good. You get one cool down lap at the end (if the car still runs).

:thumb
 
Hmmm

Hi Hib,

For the guys that love 5w30, prove it. Take your car out to your favorite track on a 90 plus degree day with stock radiator (and no oil cooler) and run a 25 minute session with the red group and let me know how that works out for you. Post it here. Don't cheat & peek at your oil pressure or oil temps, it'll all be good. You get one cool down lap at the end (if the car still runs).

:thumb

OK....for the .01% of the guys that actually take their Corvettes to the track here's what you need.


Mobil%201%2010w30.jpg
 
The only thing I have ever used is 5W-30 and minus the K&N filter, my car is completely stock. Every year I attend a breast cancer fund raiser and because I put on a detailing clinic while there, I do all my track runs back to back (as I exit the track, I come around and join the next group of guys going on the track). I have yet to have any operating or oil temperature issues in the past 3 years that I have done this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoFM2iWUo5w&feature=channel_video_title

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0Tzj1YAsC8&feature=relmfu
 
OK. Once more, from the top...

It is ultimately irrelevant whether you use 5W30 or 10W30 on track day: both will behave as SAE 30 viscosity oil at operating temperatures. The only difference between those two oil grades is how they behave in cold-weather (i.e., winter) temperatures: 5W30 is thinner at cold temperatures, and will flow more readily than 10W30...
 
I should point out that there were two things that I changed in resolving this issue.

First, I switched from 10W40 to 5W30.

Second, I decided to swap the GM Blue filter for a Bosch Black just in case that was part of the poor oil flow issue. Everything is fine now, but, as we all know, whenever we change two things at once in a trouble shooting process, definitive answers become impossible. Maybe it was the 40W, the Blue, or both? We'll never know. Thanks again to all.
 
I should point out that there were two things that I changed in resolving this issue.

First, I switched from 10W40 to 5W30.

Second, I decided to swap the GM Blue filter for a Bosch Black just in case that was part of the poor oil flow issue. Everything is fine now, but, as we all know, whenever we change two things at once in a trouble shooting process, definitive answers become impossible. Maybe it was the 40W, the Blue, or both? We'll never know. Thanks again to all.

Well, although it doesn't conclusively resolve the question: in my most recent oil change (end of July), I used one of the so-called 'GM blue' filters (I honestly hadn't heard any reports of problems with it), and haven't noticed any problems with engine operation. So I would infer that your problems probably stemmed from the thicker grade of motor oil...
 
Oil threads... even cavemen argued about them! :L
 
I use the Blue GM filters and haven't had any issues with them over the last 9 years. ;shrug
 
Please let me clarify that I have no specific opinions about the quality of GM Blue filters.

On the other hand, as a general rule, I've always been somewhat leery of any OEM's oil filter. In fact, I don't know of any other group of automotive enthusiasts who so loyally and confidently use a filter like the Blue made by their respective OEM.

The Blue may well be the bees knees for Corvettes. If there was some kind of problem with the Blue filter on my car it would seem that such an issue might constitute an anomaly. Stuff happens even to the best of products.

Regards...
 

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