need help dropping out rearend (it didn't drop)

[mike weyman]

hi guys, i need some help.i am lowering the rear end in the 75 to install new seals and universals.
i removed the half shafts,drive shaft, and the bolts that go up onto the frame.
one side can be pushed off the mount,but goes right back in, the other side won't let go.i need to drop it about three inches to get the end off the rear.
the shock absorbers are still attached,I also have the exhaust lowered out of the way.
is there a way to beat these friggers out,the only tool i havent resorted to in order to lower this part is the cutting torch,or the ball peen hammer .
the shocks will have to be removed, but that's not holding the crossmember.
if anyone can help,or has an idea(other than bigger hammers or flame throwers)i would appreciate it as this is the last big hurdle before the restart.mike

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Mike,

There is a bolt on the front of the diff that attaches to the frame. Did you remove that?

Bob

 

[a69vette]

I remember when I drop my crossmember; try using a long pry bar around the area of the bolt. I used a long pry bar on each side of the car. I had placed my floor jack under the rearend (not to fall to the floor). They came apart VERY hard, with a loud bang.

 

[68Roadster]

Mike,
You can get a ratchet and socket between the body and the diff crossmember to losen the 4 bolts that hold the diff to the crossmember. Not fun but I just did it a few weeks ago.
If you prefer just to drop the crossmemebr with the diff attached, do as a69 says. Put the floor jack underneath it. The diff is very heavy and the crossmember is a load too. After it's positioned, remove the two bolts that go up thru the x-member, PB Blaster the two cushions, let it sit a few and then use a large prybar to pop the x-member off. It may take some work, mine didn't pop off easy. Just don't bend anything.
If you need pics, I can shoot some tonite. Let me know.

 

[GTR1999]

You can also use a 2-3 jaw puller to remove the crossmember.

 

[mike weyman]

bob chad, there's another bolt?, i hate it when that happens,oh well, i didn't beat it to pieces and find the bolt later.it must be right on the front near the universal??i'm going out now to the garage,i'll find out soon.thanks for the fast replies guys, you must have sensed my desperation,lol,mike

 

[Bob Chadwick]

The bolt is at the front of the differential and holds the nose to the chassis.

 

[mike weyman]

finally got it lowered down, what a BEATCH,ended up cutting the shocks off,they were ugly anyway.she wouldn't give up until there was nothing holding it in. i'll take a breather before i go and take the rear end apart to change seals.put all new universals in last night,boy, this is either a labor of love , or a real big act of stupidity.mike
now if i could only get it all back together.

 

[GTR1999]

I think you'll get it back together alright.

If you're only changing seals be sure to use #2 permatex on the yoke splines(if you're changing the pinion seal?), and make sure to mark the position of the nut first so you get the correct,(or as close to it as possible), preload on the pinion bearings.

If you're just changing the yoke seals then use the NAPA CR brand,they fit correct. I've had other brands that didn't fit.

If you think you're going to remove the carrier then mark the bearing caps
left & right. They're line bored to the housing.

You could also tap a drain plug in the housing now too.

 

[mike weyman]

the front seal behind the drive shaft is fine, not a drop. the leaks are in the side yolks in the rear end going to the axels.
by what i'm told , i need to remove the back cover, pull out the clips that hold in the half shafts,remove the shafts, replace worn seals,re-insert the shafts,replace the clips, and re-attach the back am i missing anything ? i have permatex blue gasket seal,it worked for everything else.
is there anything i'm missing(like big bolts?) mike

 

[68Roadster]

Mike,
You got it. When you get the cover off and have access to the C-clips holding the side yokes in, make sure you have about 3/16" from the C-clip to the end of the yoke.
You might also check the amount of play your side yokes have. From what I have been reading, anything over about.060" is not good. Mine have .028 and .030 and I'm just gonna re-seal them.
Have fun and let us know how you are doing.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Should he consider replacing the yokes with the hardened yokes while he has it this far apart? You read about the problems people have with the standard yokes all the time.

 

[mike weyman]

i'll check the condition of them,if they're not right,they will be changed.
i'm getting tired of the endless input of cash(over 10 grand)and not driving her at all.in the next week or so it will (hopefully)RUNNING,THEN IT'S ON TO PAINT,AND RE-INSTALLING THE INTERIOR.MIKE
sorry for the caps locked but i don't wanna do it twice,mike

 

[Bob Chadwick]

We all hear your pain Mike. I've got the same into mine and am dreading the expense of the paint.

 

[mike weyman]

got the pumpkin in one moveable piece,the front yoke is resting on the x-member and the back just needs to be lifted up to drop the front. it's now supported by the jack.i can't see the clips yet,but there is these thick discs???are these them??like a thick washer .i'll wait for assistance before dropping it down....probably not,i'll figure something out after i eat. mike

 

[68Roadster]

Mike,

If the washers look like these, they go on either side of your strut rod bushings, the inboard side that mounts to the bracket with your cam adjusting bolt.

The c-clips you won't be able to see until the back cover is off the diff.

 

[GTR1999]

You have the rear cover off and the rear end still on the jack? Or did I misunderstand you? Either way once you get the rear end to where you're going to work on it look inside. Don't forget to drain the oil. The yokes go through the carrier side gears and bottom out on the carrier pinion pin,which is really a shaft.

The yoke ends are only case hardened which is usually around .030" deep. Once they wear to point of soft metal they really wear out fast. If you're going through all this work replace the yokes with the rebuilt hardened tip ones. You may find the snap rings that hold them in place are gone-if the tip is worn down to the groove. If this is the case then really look at the bearings becaue all the metal that was worn off ended up in the oil. If you see any pitting on the rollers you have to replace them. I'm rebuilding a 76 differential right now,if I knew how to post a picture I would. Post your email and I can send you some. I'm just installed the fornt pinion seal and I'm taking a lunch break.

You'll also need a set of 90* snap ring pliers to install the rings. Use a new rear cover gasket with sealer. I use #2 permatex on just about everything.

 

[67HEAVEN]

...i'm getting tired of the endless input of cash(over 10 grand) and not driving her at all.

Easy there, Mike. It's all good. To play, you gotta pay.

Try multiplying that by 7 or 8... www.67HEAVEN.com

 

[mike weyman]

i have it out on the bench now, what i first saw was the main bearings??that hold both side in .the clip i want to remove is next to the center "pin"on the sideshaft??and near the end about 1/4 inch??do i pull the snap ring and slide out the shaft??will it slide right out once the snap ring is out??i'll know soon. mike

 

[GTR1999]

Mike,
The caps you see are the carrier bearing caps and those are the ones you would have to mark if you remove them. You don't have to remove them if you're only doing the side yokes and seals. Rotate the carrier until you see the bolt going into it and the center pin. Remove this long bolt and the pin will slide out of the carrier pinion gears. This will give you room if needed to remove the snap rings from the end of the yokes. If they are not mushroomed over too bad they should come out,sometimes you can get a long brass punch in there and tap them out. If they are mushromed then use a file or Dremel tool to deburr them.
I usually leave the pin in and can reach in with the snap ring pliers I use to get them out.