New Member, C-5 still stalls

[Lakotah]

I bought my C-5 brand new in 99'. It's been pretty much trouble free until the last year or so. I've probably spent 7 to 8k this past year keeping it in top form plus some needed repairs. These lingering problems are something I'm gonna need help on, as you all know these Vettes sometimes have their quirks and are deceptive on giving up their problems to be fixed. My biggest issue is that stalling thing when I put it in gear. I've replaced the battery, alternator, serpentine belt, cleaned the throttle body, mass air sensor, installed a LMC5 steering lock module, checked resistance of the ignition keys, changed gas station, ran some sea foam through the tank, checked for diagnostic codes (none pertaining to this problem). My guess is the problem lies some where in the theft deterrent system.


Also on a second issue I'm tempted to replace the receiver for the tire monitor and key fob. I purchased a new GM key fob as original one only worked intermittently and this new GM key fob works the same. Hmmmmmmmmm. Anyways guys I'd sure appreciate some in-put on this. I have to thank my new mechanic for finding this site.

 

[Rob]

Welcome to the Corvette Action Center.

I'm curious...why replace the tire monitor for a stalling problem?

 

[jrose7004]

Welcome to the CAC! There are lots of folks that can help on your problems. Lots of help here!

 

[Lakotah]

Key Fob

Welcome to the Corvette Action Center.

I'm curious...why replace the tire monitor for a stalling problem?

Rob, I guess I should have been a bit clearer on separating the two issues. I'll see if I can go back and edit this

 

[6 Shooter]

Welcome...

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Welcome to Corvette Action Center

Welcome aboard we are glad you have joined us Appears you have quite a list there to do or have done. You're not saying everything or anything for that matter had or has anything to do with the stalling, they just had and/or needed to be done anyway; right? And I have not heard of this, is this really a potential problem that occurs? (i.e.checked resistance of the ignition key?) Curious more than anything and wondering if it is something I need to be aware of because I wasn't, also like Rob said the tire monitoring and others that has no relationship to your stalling problem! Assuming these are just things that needed done anyway, but I got to know what is the deal with the resistance of the ignition key, this has me buffaloed for sure

-Bill

 

[Lakotah]

ignition key

Welcome aboard we are glad you have joined us Appears you have quite a list there to do or have done. You're not saying everything or anything for that matter had or has anything to do with the stalling, they just had and/or needed to be done anyway; right? And I have not heard of this, is this really a potential problem that occurs? (i.e.checked resistance of the ignition key?) Curious more than anything and wondering if it is something I need to be aware of because I wasn't, also like Rob said the tire monitoring and others that has no relationship to your stalling problem! Assuming these are just things that needed done anyway, but I got to know what is the deal with the resistance of the ignition key, this has me buffaloed for sure

-Bill

Bill, checking the resistance was something the dealership recommended. According to them if the resistance has changed it would or could cause the stalling problem. They also said it could be the ignition itself. Hmmmmmm. (I have to add that I'm not a big fan of any dealership.) Ok, I was told the battery was failing and the alternator was not working up to par where a low voltage issue would cause it to stall. The LMC5 was supposed to take care of the steering wheel lock malfunction which I've read causes the stalling. Also it was recommended I clean the throttle body as this could be causing the stalling problem and the mass air sensor was cleaned just to eliminate it as a potential problem.This stalling problem appears to me to be anybody's guess on what's causing it, and it's a 50/50 chance their right.
The receiver for the tire pressure monitor and key fob are a completely different issue just like the gas gauge goes to empty occasionally when the tank is full also the drivers seat moves around at will and does not keep it's memory.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

I thought maybe all could learn something here, you're never to old to learn but this key resistance thing had me scratching my head for sure, and someone of the rest of the things as well. Low voltage can definitely play a role in the stalling I would think. . . . . Keep us post this is very interesting

Good luck,
-Bill

 

[Lakotah]

Other repairs

I thought maybe all could learn something here, you're never to old to learn but this key resistance thing had me scratching my head for sure, and someone of the rest of the things as well. Low voltage can definitely play a role in the stalling I would think. . . . . Keep us post this is very interesting

Good luck,
-Bill

Bill, I think at this point Luck is going to have to kick in pretty soon. I thought I'd mention some of my other repairs I've done. I've replaced both the front and rear transverse springs as my C-5 was riding really low. Replaced all the shocks, rotors, pads, belt tensioner, water pump and tires. Some may not like the tires I put on, but unfortunately I didn't get the selective ride control when I ordered my Vet. I'm not one that races around and now I want something that rides a lot smoother so I put a set of Continental DWS's on it. I'll tell you they sure have those Michelins beat. They're quiet and smooth riding.
Now I have to take my Vet back into the shop cause my Vet is leaning to one side cause one of the rubber grommets have come out of one side of the transverse springs and the other one is just about completely out. My new mechanic didn't have one of those spring compressors to do the job so I found a practically new one I bought on E-bay for him to do the job. This has gotten pretty expensive but still a lot cheaper than buying a new Vet and paying a higher insurance premium plus a higher DMV fee. Not to mention the payment every month.
Bill, sure I'll keep you posted.

 

[Lakotah]

Thread name

Welcome to the Corvette Action Center.

I'm curious...why replace the tire monitor for a stalling problem?

Rob is it possible to change the thread name. I'm curious if it would help in attracting more readers to see the dilemma I have. Something like "New Member, C-5 still stalls"
Thanks.

 

[Rob]

Changed the thread title and moved it to the C5 Tech forum for greater exposure.

 

[dadaroo]

I would like to focus on stalling first. If you had a TD issue it would not start, that is what it does.

I need to know what the voltage at the battery is BEFORE you start the car and after it is running but before you put it in gear.

Next I want you to pull and post your DIC codes. I may know how to do this from the dash and your drivers seat if you have owned the car since 1999. If not, here is how to do it.

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4&list=PL7AcRmt53xvQVwDAGikaqYGw6ZivWB-2K

Written description:

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.



PS:
Have you ever replaced the electrical portion of the ignition switch?

The early key FOBs have cold solder issues. We can discuss later.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Sounds like you are about to run out of things to do, even though a good portion of what you've done is unrelated to the stalling problem. Be interesting to know what is really causing this problem Again good luck and keep us posted.

-Bill

 

[Rob]

You can also find all of the DTCs and how to acquire them here in the Corvette Action Center's Knowledgebase:

Electrical and Ignition - Corvette Action Center Knowledgebase

 

[gmjunkie]

When you put in the ignition key and turn it on,Can you hear the lock actuator in the steering column moving?:confused

 

[Lakotah]

Codes

dadaroo,
I'm not sure what a TD issue is.My new mechanic checked for DTC's with a Snap-on brand analyzer and there was nothing related to my stalling problem. At that time the ones that were there were prior to 50 start up's, well before my car really started stalling a lot. I'll check them again and write down which ones are there. And no I have not replaced the electrical portion of the ignition switch. I mentioned to my new mechanic though that if his research even remotely indicates the problem may be there, just replace it, as maybe this week I'm taking it to him to have the grommets replaced for the front transverse leaf spring. So maybe he has ordered one. Oh, the voltage before starting on a very cool morning is 11.7 and 14.2 before putting it in gear. I might mention the battery is only months old and it's an Alliance brand. I might also mention this stalling problem has a mind of it's own and stalls when it wants to and I have no control over it. Also it only stalls at one or two mph. After I get over 5 mph or so it never stalls. Dadaroo, Thanks for your help. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Lakotah]

codes

dadaroo,
First thing I don't know what a TD is. The voltage is 11.7 on a cold morning and is 14.2 before putting it in gear. The battery is a maybe 1 year old Alliance. My new mechanic pulled the codes with a Snap-on brand analyzer and there were no codes relating to the stalling problem and those were back before 50 starts. I have not yet replaced the ignition switch. I told my new mechanic that in his research for this stalling problem if he finds anything that remotely says the problem could be it, to just go ahead and order one. I'll find out this week cause I'm supposed to bring my C-5 to him so he can install new grommets for the front transverse leaf spring. I have to mention that this stalling problem has a mind all it's own and I have no control over it. It only stalls within the first 1-5 MPH, either in drive or reverse, after I get going it has never stalls. At least not so far. I'll re-check the codes. I've never tried myself, but maybe I'll give it a try. Dadaroo, thanks for your help on this. I'll keep you posted

 

[Lakotah]

GMJunkie

Changed the thread title and moved it to the C5 Tech forum for greater exposure.

I don't know who that GMjunkie is that's at the bottom of this thread, but I don't like it. Good Bye.

 

[gmjunkie]

I don't know who that GMjunkie is that's at the bottom of this thread, but I don't like it. Good Bye.

No Problem Then,I just ask a question to try to help you!
But don't worry, I can assure you it "WON'T" happen again!

 

[Rob]

I don't know who that GMjunkie is that's at the bottom of this thread, but I don't like it. Good Bye.

Actually, it's a valid question:

When you put in the ignition key and turn it on,Can you hear the lock actuator in the steering column moving?:confused

And I just responded back to your complaint that you emailed to me - which I really didn't appreciate.

If you expected to come here, as you have to other forum sites, looking for an instant response/fix for your problem - then you set your expectations too high.

I stated in my email response to you, and I'll publicly state it here as well: you got valid responses in this thread to your questions. If they aren't good enough for you - then I highly suggest one of two things:

1. Find yourself another mechanic that can properly diagnose and fix the problem for you or...

2. Contact Chevrolet Customer Assistance and maybe they can point you in the right direction.