New Member, C-5 still stalls

[Toms007]

I'm not sure what you are expecting, you have two people here who are trying to help you solve your problem. There must be a logical process, which both parties were trying to get information about the problem. The one, GMJunkie, who happens to be be of our most knowledgeable members, asked a legitimate question and you blow him off and basically slap him in the face for asking. You've alienated one of the most helpful people here and I can guarantee he won't make any effort again to help you. BTW he PMed me apologizing for his response as he was concerned that we (the moderators) would not appreciate his response.

I don't understand why you're burning your bridges here. These guys don't have to help, they WANT to, and they don't get paid for doing so. But if you come in here insulting our members, you're not going to make any friends, or find much help.

If you don't like the answers you get here, fine, take your car to the dealership or some other mechanic and let them figure out your problem and pay them for their work.

 

[Toms007]

Looks like Rob responded before me.

 

[dadaroo]

No Problem Then,I just ask a question to try to help you!
But don't worry, I can assure you it "WON'T" happen again!

I'm with you Junkie and I am out of this Thread.

I think you were on the right track and I was going to go there too very shortly. Too bad, we could have had him fixed up in no time. Mr. Sam

 

[Lakotah]

Ok

Been There,Done That, several times,Could write the book,But I won't!

To me,99's seem to be the worst for it!

gmjunkie I just don't get the humor being referred to as under-medicated, over medicated, intoxicated or just plain being an ass. Hmmmmmm?

 

[Toms007]

You still don't get it, do you, lakotah? He is referring to himself there.........not you. That is in his signature, it is on every post GMJunkie does, has done, or will post in the future. (at least until he changes it, which I doubt will be soon) It isn't about YOU.

As I said in my previous post. You now have alienated both of the very knowledgeable people who were TRYING TO HELP you. :eyerole

 

[Lakotah]

Signature

You still don't get it, do you, lakotah? He is referring to himself there.........not you. That is in his signature, it is on every post GMJunkie does, has done, or will post in the future. (at least until he changes it, which I doubt will be soon) It isn't about YOU.

As I said in my previous post. You now have alienated both of the very knowledgeable people who were TRYING TO HELP you. :eyerole

Well I'll tell you Toms007, what was I supposed to think after 3 attempts with no success to leave a reply during the day then I look at the last post on this thread and I read what gmjunkie writes? I'm not real savvy on signatures or other internet tricks of the trade sort of speak, so I'll have to take yours and Robs word on this issue. I really have no intensions of offending anyone and I have to extend my sincere apology to them.

 

[gmjunkie]

I really have no intensions of offending anyone and I have to extend my sincere apology to them.

No Problem,apology accepted!

1st thing!

The voltage is 11.7 on a cold morning and is 14.2 before putting it in gear. The battery is a maybe 1 year old Alliance.

11.7 volts at key up isn't enough!
C5's require a minimum of 12.5 v at key up or the electronics system won't function properly! A fully charged 12v car battery should carry 12.8-13.2 v,GM's requirements for 97-03 C5's (550 CCA/120 RC) minimum!

Otherwise the column lock actuator may or may not move into the unlock or run position in the column,If you don't hear it at key up,the car will start but will shut the fuel off as soon as it starts moving!

Have the battery charged and load tested,clean and inspect All cable and B+ connections,even the short smaller B+ cable at the power distribution center.
Disassemble,Clean and Inspect All body and chassis grounds,there are several!
(This alone could cure All your problems!)

 

[Toms007]

Lakotah, I have no idea why you couldn't post for a while....I guess it is one of those weird internet things as we, moderators and admiins, didn't do anything to limit your posting. And as far as what GMJunkie wrote, He asked a legitimate question, which the answer to would lead him to a correct diagnosis of your problem. I trust GMJunkie explicitly. I go to him directly for many, many questions I have, and had, over the years. He is one of the top diagnosis people here and his experiences as a mechanic are extensive. I am beginning to feel the same way about dadaroo, as well. These gentlemen, are following a flowchart to diagnose your problem. What may seem like a random question to you, is really a trained logical question according to the flow chart. If you had the Factory Service manuals (which are available from forum sponsors here, ZIP being one). You might understand the process. I would even encourage you to acquire a set for your car, so you can follow your "helpers" and maybe, just maybe you can learn to diagnose these problems yourself.

Rather than jumping to conclusions you need to step back and ask questions, in a civilized manner, to understand what is going on. Then when you're given an answer, not question the answer.

Your sincere apology is a start. Although, I hope that you haven't burned so many bridges here that everyone is going to ignore your requests for help.

 

[Toms007]

Well, in the time that I took to write my last message, GMJunkie has stepped in. Thank You GMJunkie.

 

[gmjunkie]

Well, in the time that I took to write my last message, GMJunkie has stepped in. Thank You GMJunkie.

I'm not reading a Chart,I don't need no stinking chart!:L
I been on this Rodeo Circuit 8-10 times before,Hope he don't need a actuator like the last 2 I've done!

 

[Toms007]

That chart is embedded into your brain, Jesse. Despite what your signature says, that head of yours is full of knowledge. You've forgotten more than I'll ever know!

 

[dadaroo]

Everything is good. GMJunkie and I chatted when we understood it was just an honest misunderstanding. We are both here to help you.

I agree with his voltage concern.

Have you ever had a NON GM dealer Column Lock fix? When you remove your ignition key and try to turn the steering wheel left of right does it lock?

Soon we are going to possibly need you to pull your DIC codes. They can be pulled directly from the dash, no scanner needed. Most scanners just pull emissions codes and you can pull over 200 from all the 11 or so modules right from the dash. Here is how. At the end I have a video to show also.



READING YOUR C5 EngineDiagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem withyour C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY readpower train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader willallow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open,trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -secondperiod.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cyclethrough each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS- RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will bedisplayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a givenmodule, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with aletter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present inthe module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometimein the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code ofthe same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved,that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication ofan intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittentcode may have happened once, may have happened more than once but isinconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time thecodes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunctionin a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An exampleis the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Moduledetects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operatewith the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Testeris necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode whichallows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Centerbuttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence bypressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics,select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP buttonto go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more thanone are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codesin a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, pressand hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the nextmodule. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computermodules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this.Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidenceof it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the CheckEngine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass anemissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There area few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operatingproperly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function.This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot ofold history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if anycome back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need toconcentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself ownershould invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. TheService Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on yourC5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pullmine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving andcause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation websites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause theproblem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off theengine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audittrail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosingproblems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. Isuspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT showwhen the engine is turned off.


Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4&list=PL7AcRmt53xvQVwDAGikaqYGw6ZivWB-2K

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Class Act. . . . . . . . I know I appreciate it!

gmjunkie and dadaroo are class acts no doubt about it and always willing to help when and where they can, my hats off to both of you ;worship Lakotah you got a second chance on a possible misunderstanding or whatever, sometimes it's not what you say but how you say it. You extended your apology and it was accepted and that is cool both ways!!! I know for many years gmjunkie has been there for me on more than one occasion and is an invaluable resource to this forum, trust what he says because he knows what he is talking about he walks the walk! And like Toms007 said they do not get paid to do this, and I for one appreciate it very much!

-Bill

 

[gmjunkie]

That chart is embedded into your brain, Jesse. Despite what your signature says, that head of yours is full of knowledge. You've forgotten more than I'll ever know!

I know for many years gmjunkie has been there for me on more than one occasion and is an invaluable resource to this forum, trust what he says because he knows what he is talking about he walks the walk! And like Toms007 said they do not get paid to do this, and I for one appreciate it very much!

-Bill

Oh guys STOP,I can't take much more of this swelling!

 

[hoosierdaddy]

You da Man Junk

-Bill

 

[Toms007]

You kill me Jesse.

Are you guys thinking this might be a column lock issue?

 

[Toms007]

Column lock is a real problem. I hope they have fixed that with the C6s (I haven't heard about issue with them) Another member here C4C5specialist did a session at Cruisefest a few years back on Column Lock, I recorded it. Lakotah, you can watch it here. Very enlightening.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...rformance/122487-c5-column-lock-debunked.html

 

[dadaroo]

You kill me Jesse.

Are you guys thinking this might be a column lock issue?

I think it may be related and could be the 2mph shutdown/limit. It is a place to start until we get his DIC codes. If he has not done a CL fix now is the time. If he needs a CL fix here is my opinion:



I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problempermanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CLattempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows theinstall at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions.So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, theBCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versionsand they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Theircustomer support is as good as it gets.
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lockcondition" and not know it and then start with the install. In otherwords, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actuallylocked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn thesteering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the lockedcondition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in theunlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuitsdisconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks andunlocks normally:
If the CL isfunctioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignitionON, pull fuse #23, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right)and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal,re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html

 

[Otter]

... you can watch it here. Very enlightening.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...rformance/122487-c5-column-lock-debunked.html

Since I have a 99, I was interested in looking at the video, but I am getting a 'not found' msg on vettetube when I click the link in the about thread.

 

[gmjunkie]

You kill me Jesse.

Are you guys thinking this might be a column lock issue?

Kinda Sorta, It go's a little deeper than a Battery sometimes. On a car that old, In my experience, It's bound to have some High Resistance Grounds!
And most of the time I find a good ground cleaning fixes most of the problems,and then you can get to the real problem after that,If there is one!