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Help! New Oil Leak:

401KVet

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
330
Location
Port Allen, LA
Corvette
1980 L82 Coupe, Black
;helpWell I just got the transmission fluid changed along with the rear end oil. Having not driven the car but about 60 miles since I bought it and not even getting into the 4 barrell, I decided it was time.

It's has only 42,800 original miles, and it hasn't been driven much lately.

At about 60, I press down and heard the 4 barrell come alive and let off at about 85 and cruised a little.

When I got home, I noticed I have a oil leak that was not there before. Coming from the left side toward the front of the valve cover. Pretty much under where the PCV is.

Can anyone tell me why the oil leak??? Increase oil pressure and the increase speed??:bash
 
Not to panic!

Could be the valve cover gaskets just need to be replaced. Sometimes the cover has been tightened to much in the past and the valve cover distorts. You can change the gaskets and make sure that the cover is not bent where the bolts go in.
Congratulation again on getting your first Vette, changing all the fluids is a good idea. You did add some GM limited slip axle fluid in the differential. For as pretty as our cars look you have to remember thay are old and gaskets and seals may need to be changed. Also fan belts and radiator hoses and the like.
Enjoy your new Vette! PG.
 
Yes I did use the GM limited slip axle fluid in the differential along with Royal Purple for the oil. This is what I have done to it so far.

I changed the cap, rotor, coil, control module which appeared to be all original.
Also the spark plugs and wires which also appeared to be org.
All the hoses including heater hoses which looked org.
All the belts.
Fuel, emission, and air filter with K&N air filter.
Flushed raditor and added fresh antifreeze.
Changed oil and filter. I'm going to drive it about 500 miles and do it again.
For the oil I went with Val. 10W40, synthic blend.
Transmission fluid and filter.
Greased the front.

What I want to do now.

I'm going the go with a expert that knows Vette to check all 4 wheels out.
I want to change the shocks and coil springs which look original.
Also all the the bushing and mounts. I noticed that Eckler's sells a entire kit for this.

On the valve covers, if they are bent do you think I can straighten them?

Any other suggestions are more than welcome.

Thanks,:)
 
For the oil I went with Val. 10W40, synthic blend...
...Any other suggestions are more than welcome...

Hi 401,

Sometimes the synthetic oils are so slick, that leaks can start in susceptible areas.

Just remove the valve covers and gaskets, clean up the contact areas on the covers as well as the head. If you have stamped steel, and the metal is only bent and not broken - go ahead and try to straighten.

I would replace the gaskets with a thick Felpro - using RTV sealant.

I have a pair of finned aluminum covers that I can let go if you're interested.

Ralph
 
Hi again 401KVet, sounds like you are doing a fine job of keeping your new Vette in perfect shape. Changing all the things that you mentioned will give your Vette many more years of life. I put a relpacement motor in back in 2001 and I've used only conventional oil. Now I know opionions differ on what oil to use so you'll have to go thru a search and make your own decision on that, I have a stock motor with low compression and a stock valve train and I contacted Valvoline and they said straight 30W is fine for me but like I said others will say otherwise.
Like fine69 said felpro gaskets are the favorite choice. The steel valve covers can be straightened out with a small hammer and a straight edge and it is not a big deal.
I have chrome valve covers and might consider the finned aluminum ones, could you post a picture?
Again, enjoy your new vette, PG.
 
If I'm not mistaken, The GM finned aluminum valve covers improve rocker arm lubrication because of drippers/deflectors casted into them.
 
I think that is what these are. They look aluminum and they are finned. This was the standard cover that they put on the L82's.

The Valvoline oil that I'm using is called MAX Life, for engines with over 75,000 miles. Synthetic Blend, 10W-40. Valvoline part # VV150. My engine only has 42,800, but since it is 28 years old was why is I went with this oil.

This is a pic of the cover when I first started working on it.

Thanks for the help!

Glenn :)
 
Looks Good:

Someone told me to get another top cap, not to use my original, and cut it like you have yours. Did it help out much??
What did you use to cut it?
 
Hi again, sorry I misunderstood, the air cleaner and top are original for my 74, there should be a rubber gasket that mates with the hood but I never bothered to get it. There were so many posts that said they were disapointed with the fit so I just passed on it.
My car is all stock except for duel chambered exhaust, I've owned it since 10-31-2000 and never reved it over 4,000 RPM or gone over 80 MPH, so call me a wimp! I have put about 35,000 miles on it so it is a daily driver.
If it not raining I take the Vette, it's a great toy and I enjoy even a short ride in it. PG.
 
Slow Ride, Low Ride: It's all good. Put your sun glasses on, look cool and feel cool.

The heads will turn, some will give you the thumbs up, and it's all smiles.

I took my first real ride in it today. About 75 miles. It's was beautiful, sunny and cool. It was all good!

Lator Gator, :)
 
Hi Glenn

I think that is what these are. They look aluminum and they are finned. This was the standard cover that they put on the L82's.

The Valvoline oil that I'm using is called MAX Life, for engines with over 75,000 miles. Synthetic Blend, 10W-40. Valvoline part # VV150. My engine only has 42,800, but since it is 28 years old was why is I went with this oil.

This is a pic of the cover when I first started working on it.

Thanks for the help!

Glenn :)

I have owned C3's since 1982, 4 in all, L82's each one..2 have new owners now, the remaining two, a 1977 and a 1979 I will have until I die, the 77 I will be buried in..LOL
Since I have been MIA around here for so long I thought I better visit and help where I can.
The leaks and the emission sytems, on the L82's especially, were a work in progress by owners and mechanics continually and will always be until they fade away......but!...over the summer I had a breakthrough with the help of a lot of books and a lot of trial and error.
I have shared this info with local clubs, and I have become a hero of sorts to a few anyhow...when I joined the NCRS and ordered everybook they had on C3's, I discovered it in a judging section, where they deduct points for this and that, I am getting my 79 ready for her to win gold:)
The first suggestion from a friend to stop the leaking was to install the new Felpro valve cover gaskets that have metal molded into a clever ribbed rubber design, like a sandwhich, since I am a retired Engineer, at first sight I knew they would work as long as the covers were straight and the head sealing area was in good shape, the ribs are channels really, so the oil comes off the covers or elsewhere and runs down the slots and out the many openings in the inner one and falls back into the head cavity, prior to and right after each corner and near the mounting bosses for the covers..the gaskets are pretty much dummy proof against over torque, because the metal inside stops and crushing of the gaskets.............my cars have leaked for years and putting new gaskets was pretty much a bi-monthly thing and so far at least 16 of our fellow L82 owners have not leaked a drop all summer..not to mention 3 LT1 owners..
**Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry and as defect free as possible, then be certain there is no RTV sealant or any other thing remaining anywhere, these gaskets go on dry and need to be as centered as possible, even between my two Vettes there were substancial differences in the tolerances between cover and head, keep the gaskets centered on the head, you want as many of those oil channels protruding into the inside as possible..

If you seen how many old Felpro gaskets I have in my garage, lying there waitng there turn to be used, you would understand my elation, now I am sure we will hear failure stories once this gets to the masses, but I am certain it will not be because of the gasket, the only unknown is longevity, already they have outlasted all others by far in our informal test group.

Now onto your other problem, which I discovered by accident in the NCRS books, the L82's I will address but I am sure others are making this mistake, unless you have a truly untouched engine, you are probably running a low flow PCV Valve, for the L48s and other regular engines, the 1980 I am not sure, because I dont have my manual here, but I will bet you, like everyone else I ahve talked to this summer at every event, had the CC774C stuck in their valve covers, every Auto Parts store and dealership around here have been dispensing those for years and stopped carrying the High Flow valve required on the higher performance engine...the CV775C , Delco # 6487945, Echlin # 2-9246 but I am skeptical about Napa, the last three times they gave me the Low one even though they insisted it was for all 350's....but after I brought the four Delco Valves to them and showed them, then they went on a hunt and found me one in Kentucky...even the dealerships in the midwest here were convinced the valves were for all, and long ago discontinued stocking the 775C..Now I have four, from four diff areas of the U.S. and all were dusty dirty old boxes.
So all you L82 owners get a reserve, and replace the low flow, the high flow is very much needed and explains a lot about performance and nagging issues about carburation problems etc, I wont get into all the things I have found that are affected by a wrong valve, there are many really smart people here that can expand on that, ...from this owner am not exaggerating when I say both of my cars run like new, cold or hot, at all rpms and the engine internally is so much cleaner and so much more responsive ...and so on
Such a simple thing, maybe in the midwest here its a fluke and all you people everywhere have the correct valves and have never experienced being baffled by all the quirky problems a out of sync emmissions systems cause.
My 79 showed the most change because its original, paint, motor, interior..everything..except tires and wheels...the motor hasnt been breathing properly for 8 yrs that I know of. thought it was as good as it gets.....my 77 is a diff story, 383 stroker, mostly shorter trips with the carb flaps wide open..LOL...plenty of breathing going on, even that showed a marked improvement in the lower rpm range..
well, I have typed more tonight than I have in years, by now whoever was reading this is probably comatose, so I will go for now.............with one more issue that is valve related, the grommet that it sits in must be the wedge shaped type, so the valve sits level or parallel with the top of the motor, this applys to the finned L82 covers for sure, probably where ever this valve is used also, again in the our area I could find none, close, but only ones sold around here were for thin metal valve covers, not the thick alum ones, got one off a older Olds in the bone yard and 4 more new ones from a specialty store (Corvettes) in our area but it took him a lot of searching...that may seem meaningless to most, the grommet angle I mean, but again I found out the simple reason, valve doesnt work so good for very long sitting at an angle, the design was to be upright so not to drag on the sides, that was rather coldly relayed to me from a GM engineer;LOL

If you go to this high flow, and stay with stock breather element, check it often...as soon I get my Gold certification on my 79 I am changing to a better breathing setup.

A lot of talk to explain such simple things, it took me so much longer to find out why these slipped by so many brilliant builders.

7 months, and not a drop of oil on my garage floor, its a miracle. the wife actually rode with me a few times this summer, I even got the air working this spring after three years, all it took was a paper clip and 1 3/4 cans of refrigerant.

I hope I dont get banned for taking up to much space:beer

Happy Holidays
Greg
 
Thanks for the reply.

What do you recommend on replacing the origianl cat con.?
 
Thanks for the reply.

What do you recommend on replacing the origianl cat con.?

Where do you live? do they inspect? thank god they stopped that here:) most people here with collector (classic) plates on their cars, when any part of the pollution system fails it gets put on a shelf or tossed, thats one reason why most get judged ASAP, or just take the deductions and toss it all,
aftermarket cats are available I am sure, but have to be custom exhaust setups, check California parts places or Utah and others that still req them, might get lucky. (I hope cat con means the converter) http://ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=31769&dept_id=157

if thats not what you meant, then I am sorry :(

Did anything in my long ramble help? I now have it downsized to a few lines...LOL

Greg
 
I live in Louisiana, and I'm trying to keep it as original as possible, or at least looking org.
On the PCV's I found one at Ecklers and the 2 grommets. All looked origianal good to me.
Yes your rambling did help.Eckler's Corvette - Search Results
Thanks, Glenn
 
I live in Louisiana, and I'm trying to keep it as original as possible, or at least looking org.
On the PCV's I found one at Ecklers and the 2 grommets. All looked origianal good to me.
Yes your rambling did help.Eckler's Corvette - Search Results
Thanks, Glenn

Like Napa, their high performance PCV is a leap in faith, glad I found a few Delco's 775's, To me there is a noticeable diff between the two, internally.
Soon should have some extra time, I just might try to flow test them, and the 774C also, just for kicks..... Notice the low availability of the repro's, still...
Its a very important little part in our precious limited motors, can do a lot of damage, and remain a overlooked cause, of course everyone to a diff extent, I blame mine for quite a bit when I think about the many years running the wrong ones.
I know there are true experts around here that will disagree, so I will not announce to the world all the bad things that might come. MY CASE.. I suspect a few seals and gaskets plus endless carb adjustments over the years..and for sure a performance debit;)

Keep looking for a 775C, it will be worth it, and spread the word to our fellow Vetters.

Greg:beer

*A note, on the production line the 775C had the top painted yellow, for the occasional L82 that passed by.
 
Now onto your other problem, which I discovered by accident in the NCRS books, the L82's I will address but I am sure others are making this mistake, unless you have a truly untouched engine, you are probably running a low flow PCV Valve, for the L48s and other regular engines, the 1980 I am not sure, because I dont have my manual here, but I will bet you, like everyone else I ahve talked to this summer at every event, had the CC774C stuck in their valve covers, every Auto Parts store and dealership around here have been dispensing those for years and stopped carrying the High Flow valve required on the higher performance engine...the CV775C , Delco # 6487945, Echlin # 2-9246 but I am skeptical about Napa, the last three times they gave me the Low one even though they insisted it was for all 350's....but after I brought the four Delco Valves to them and showed them, then they went on a hunt and found me one in Kentucky...even the dealerships in the midwest here were convinced the valves were for all, and long ago discontinued stocking the 775C..Now I have four, from four diff areas of the U.S. and all were dusty dirty old boxes.

If you go to this high flow, and stay with stock breather element, check it often...as soon I get my Gold certification on my 79 I am changing to a better breathing setup.

Happy Holidays
Greg

So you are saying that with modified or stock L48 and L82 350's we should be using a high flow PCV? I found the CV775C PCV you mentioned and am thinking about purchasing it.
 
The PCV I bought from Ecklers is a Standard Motor Products part # V220. I called the National Automobile Parts Association, NAPA, worked for them for 8 years way back when, and they said it crossed to the 2-9246. So I'm hoping the one from Ecklers is correct.
 

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