Oil Pump and, possibly, Rear Main Seal Inspection and Replacement

[Bob Chadwick]

I thought about that Pete but only after I got out from under the car and showered. Got to go do my weekly bowling league and will be back under there tonight.

 

[GerryLP]

You knw when you're in the tool store looking at a tool, thinking do I need it or don't I....I went to Sears yesterday and bought the inch-pound torque wrench. While I was there I was taking a look at a strap wrench. Went back and forth and eventually didn't buy it.... Went to pull the oil filter. No luck. Needed that band wrench.

I was hoping that was the last time I was going to have to get under the car because it is an oily mess. I guess I'll be under there one more time.

Bob,

I am pretty sure that a lot of us have been in that situation -I have! And it sucks too. Specially if one has lowered the Vette to the ground! ad

If you're looking at the fabric strap tool, then that is always a good tool to have, but the oil filter metal (chain is even worst) strap tool is not always very useful. In my V8 it won't fit between the filter and the tranny dust cover, except in one orientation. The oil filter tool that is most useful in Chevy V8 oil filter situations is the socket-like tool that "grabs" the end of the oil filter. All one need is an extension and a ratchet. The extension keeps one's hand knuckles from hitting a sharp edge or something (specially if it's cold outside...:cry that hurts!).

GerryLP:cool

 

[wishuwerehere82]

I thought about that Pete but only after I got out from under the car and showered. Got to go do my weekly bowling league and will be back under there tonight.

Well you don't want your fingers popping out on the backswing do you? Bowl good!

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Bob,

I am pretty sure that a lot of us have been in that situation -I have! And it sucks too. Specially if one has lowered the Vette to the ground! ad

If you're looking at the fabric strap tool, then that is always a good tool to have, but the oil filter metal (chain is even worst) strap tool is not always very useful. In my V8 it won't fit between the filter and the tranny dust cover, except in one orientation. The oil filter tool that is most useful in Chevy V8 oil filter situations is the socket-like tool that "grabs" the end of the oil filter. All one need is an extension and a ratchet. The extension keeps one's hand knuckles from hitting a sharp edge or something (specially if it's cold outside...:cry that hurts!).

GerryLP:cool

Those rubber strap wrenches from Sears are great.
I have used the Nylon wind-up kind on my buddies Deisel boat engines and they slip too much. The filters were painted on and we had to use two of them with both of us on the socket wrenches and they still slipped.

 

[GerryLP]

Those rubber strap wrenches from Sears are great.
I have used the Nylon wind-up kind on my buddies Deisel boat engines and they slip too much. The filters were painted on and we had to use two of them with both of us on the socket wrenches and they still slipped.

Good point, Wish. I forgot that they make the socket-type in plastic. I have one that is metal, and not problems there. I have also heard that the rubber strap tool works great, but I wonder how the oil affects the rubber afterwards? Does it seem to breakdown or affect the rubber strap?

GerryLP:cool

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Got the rubber band wrench from ACE. For $2 you don't even really care if you ever see it again. Worked like a champ.

Gerry, I had orgotten about that ratchet type tool and it's been so long that I don't remember the specifics. Don't you have to have special oil filter to accept it? As I recall there was like an impression in the end to accept the socket.

I just had the kind on it with the rough end for grip. The new Purolater is no different.

3/4 quart of oil in the filter the rest of the 5 quarts in the block. Castrol 10w-40w.

I didn't take the bearings apart, etc., simply removed the oil pump. Since the situation is no different than if the car sat for two months I was tempted to pull the hot wire from the coil and crank it with the starter until I got pressure. I've waited this long and decided to pull the distributor and prime it.

That will have to wait until tomorrow, assuming I can get out of work at a reasonable time.

Oh yeah and I didn't bowl too bad either. Have a 25 year old rubber ball that I used to average about 165 with and have a wicked curve. Even bowling ball technology has changed. The lanes are harder and the oils are slicker. The new balls are made of materials that are carcinogenic when they drill them and I can't pronounce the names. My old rubber ball spins and spins as it slides straight down the lane.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Distributor out. Primed the pump. Got 60 psi with a battery operated drill. Put everything together and got her started. Ran with 60 psi. It's apparent the timing is off so I turned her off to loosen the distributor clamp and the battery was dead. Got her on the charger now. Was on the charger before showing full charge.

30 minutes later and she started. Timing at spec. New battery tomorrow definitely.

7 bolts and she'll be on the road. The distributor clamp, the 3 steering bolts and the torque converter dust shield.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[76okievette]

I have not been on much lately but heres the update. I just got the oil pump and pan on tonight it went together so smooth, I am worried. It was eaiser to get in all the new stuff, rear main seal, pan gasket, I used that blue one piece Fel Pro and man that is a sweet gasket, Melling Hi Vol oil pump with new shaft and metal seal, back on than it was to get it all off. The new Mellling oil pump with a new shaft just went right in, is there any way to get it pushed all the way up and not be aligned in the slot in the shaft? I marked the old one and had the new one lined up the same way but it just slid right into place. The oil pan went right on and the new bolts lined up and went right in, I did not get the ideler arm bolted back up so I did not put in any oil.
I guess tomorrow I will fill it up and disconnect the coil, turn it over a few times and then start it up.
What is this I have been reading about "priming" the pump, I am not sure I want to remove the distrubitor what does everyone recommend?

 

[Bob Chadwick]

My shaft went in very easily as well. If it wasn't lined up it would go in and I simply turned it by hand until it lined up.

Idler arm was the toughest part. Those little part turns of the nut.

I primed mine. Bought the tool for $19.95 from Summit. 45 minutes to remove it, prime the pump and to put it back together. The only trick with the distributor is to mark your rotor point on the firewall so you can drop it in pointing in the same direction.

The hardest part of the whole thing was cleaning and painting the pan. That and the dread of climbing under the car in all that mess. I got mine all back together today but was such a mess I couldn't get in the car. By the time I got cleaned up it was poring rain so I didn't get it out.

Maybe tomorrow.

 

[76okievette]

So what do you recommend, that I prime the new pump or just turn it over and see what happends.
How do you prime the pump, by pouring some oil down the Dist hole?
I worked the hardest on getting that old pan clean enought to paint, but its chevy orange now and looks good, i have this good degreaser and I plan to wipe off every thing down they as best I can so if all the leaks are stopped I will see where they are coming from.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I filled the pan and new filter with the 5 quarts of oil.

As I recall you had the rear main bearing cap off for the rear main seal. Even not having taken that apart, I elected to prime it. It's only another hour.

 

[76okievette]

OK, then can you tell me how to prime it?

 

[Bob Chadwick]

You need to pull the distributor.

If you haven't already fill a new oil filter with oil and put it in place. Add the remainder of the oil to the block. Mine took five quarts total.

Mark all the plug wires on the distributor so you put them back in the right order. I just mark them 1 - 8 on the plug that goes into the distributor and remember where #1 goes rather than trying to match them to the pistons and play with the firing order. Pull the cap and make a mark on the engine or firewall that represents where the rotor points to. Pull the remaining electrical wires, the vacuum line to the vacuum can, undo the distributor retaining bolt and lift the distributor. Watch out for the gasket between the block and bottom of the distributor. Also, watch the orientation of the vacuum advance unit because you are going to want to put it back generally the way it came out.

Get yourself one of these tools called a SBC Oil Pump Primer. This one is Summit's house brand. NAPA or Autozone may have one so you don't have to order it and wait.

The one end goes into the block over the oil pump shaft. The other goes into an electric drill. Make sure none of those electrical wires you pulled off the distributor are grounded or otherwise touching something they shouldn't be. Turn the key on until your idiot lights come on. Don't bump the starter or you'll be looking for TDC on the #1 piston to put your distributor back in. Not hard, just something you don't want to do if you don't have to.

Have someone watch the oil gauge while you spin the pump. I used a slow speed on my battery operated drill and got 60 psi in a heartbeat. 3 or 4 seconds later I pulled the tool, turned off the power and put the distributor back in with the rotor pointing at the mark you made earlier. Don't forget that gasket mentioned earlier and that the vacuum can needs to be in the same general area it was before.

You may have some problem getting the top of the oil pump shaft to line up with the hole in the bottom of the distributor. You may need to use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump until the two match. You will also find that due to the way the gears are cut, the rotor will turn clockwise as you drop the distributor into the block and you will have to compensate for that as well with both the orientation of the rotor and the oil pump shaft.

If you really get frustrated lining up the oil pump some have recommended lining up the rotor and then bumping the starter. This will spin the distributor, which will maintain it's orientation with the cam as the gears are engaged, until the oil pump shaft lines up. I have to admit I had to do it this way after playing with the distributor for quite some time the first time I ever pulled it.

Put the cap back on, hook up the wires and replace the distributor retaining bolt. Leave it loose enough that you can twist the distributor with minimal effort. Place a timing light on the #1 plug wire (front driver's side) and start the car. Warm it up until the choke cuts out, pull and plug the vacuum advance and time the car to the specs on the plate on the firewall. Turn the car off, secure the distributor retaining bolt and reconnect the vacuum advance.

At this point you should be good to go.

 

[76okievette]

Thanks, Bob I appreciate all the info, I got mine running tonight it started right up and the oil pressure jumped up to 80 on the gage its almost pegged but still moves a little as I accerlate. I am real glad its done now if I just don't have any leaks. Thanks again.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Mine does the same thing when it's cold. At idle it's 60 psi. Anything above that and it's right at 80.

Once it warms up it drops down to 30 and 60.

No visible leaks either.

Congrats.

 

[76okievette]

Thanks again going for first drive right now, everything looks great.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Put a couple hundered miles on the car Changing the pan gasket took care of the last fluid leak from the car. The pan gasket was leaking near the starter. Oil pressure at cruise is up to about 60psi, up from 40, when warm. No noise from the back of engine any more. Whether this noise was the old oil pump or the new distributor I guess I'll never know.

I still have the occasional rapid fluctuation of oil pressure only now it is between 60 and 80 psi rather than 40 and 80. I'm going to have to get a mechanical gauge on it to see of the problem is in the engine or the electrical circuit with the oil pump. I have a new pump, a new sending unit, a new plug, a rebuilt gauge and a new circuit board. Anybody think this could be as simple as a bad ground for the instruments? I do get movement in them when I use the powere windows.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Gee Bob,

You have the new alternator, so I would assume that the voltage is OK to the battery. Possibly a bad Chassis ground that is vibrating could cause the jumping oil pressure, and would change under the increased load of the power windows.
I know my windows cause the interior lights to dim on my Vette when they are activated, so I know they do draw a lot of power.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

The ground for this circuit is on the driver piller. I just need to take some time and find it.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Well anyway, it's good to here you're back on the road instead of on your back under the vette.