Oil Pump and, possibly, Rear Main Seal Inspection and Replacement

[wishuwerehere82]

Bob,

The shaft does not come out of the pump. Your Melling pump will have a new shaft coupling with it. Snap the old (orange)one off the extension and put the new one on.
Remove your distributor to aid in installing the oil pump. If the notches don't line up, you will have hard time getting the pump to seat and possibly break something. Then rotate the pump shaft until the distributor lines up with the pump shaft and drops back down.
When inspecting your bearings, you will see a tab on each bearing that fits into a notch in the cap and block. If the tab is missing, the bearing has been spinning. You will see scoring on the crank surfaces if it has spun. Hopefully, all will be well. Get some Plastigage from your auto parts store and measure your bearing clearances one at a time. If they check out OK, clean off the Plastigage then retorque them and move along until all bearings are inspected, measured.

 

[Jack]

Oil pump is out. Looked fine to me. No play or catching when you manipulate the rod or turn it. Doubt that was the problem but for $30 I'll order a new Melling. I've seen a couple of places that sell them with the pickup already welded in place. Will this be acceptable or do you need to position the pickup and tack it into place.

Also, how do you get the rod out? Does it have to be pressed on and off at a shop or do you order the pump with the shaft that has the metal sleeve? I certainly couldn't get it out.

Bob:
Grasp the pump in one hand and the Intermediate Shaft in the other ... sharply snatch the pump away from the IS ... they're joined where the nylon guide (sleeve) is. If need be, lightly chuck the IS in a vise and snatch the pump away. Both nylon & steel guides (sleeves) work same way. Really no need to separate if you're gonna get a new pump & IS. To install IS, try pushing it on until you hear it pop into place ... or lightly tap the end of IS.

Melling Intermediate Shafts:
Hi-Po int shaft with pinned steel guide (sleeve): P/N IS-55E
Stock int shaft that uses Nylon guide (sleeve): P/N IS-55G
Stock Nylon guide (sleeve): P/N M-55005

As you can see, the pickup is pressed into pump body. Unless you've got the stuff to firmly seat the pickup and tack it ... get pump with PU already tack-welded ... it'll probably have correct position, but if it ain't you can grind off the welds and have it redone.
JACK:gap

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks Jack and Pete. I'll pull of that rear main bearing cap next week, maybe this weekend depending, and check for that groove in the crank journal and then order the proper rear main seal and oil pan gasket.

Gerry, I've read that about the torque values as well. I think the high value I have seen was either 60 or 65 ft/lbs and it was no were near in that tight.

Thanks for the input Randy.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Ok. I know there is a trick to it but I con't figure it out. I have the bolts out for the rear main bearing but can't get the cap off. What's the secret?

 

[Jack]

Ok. I know there is a trick to it but I con't figure it out. I have the bolts out for the rear main bearing but can't get the cap off. What's the secret?

Rear cap's easiest one. Screw the oil pump bolt back in it (without pump) hand tight. Pull on the bolt & wiggle from front to rear and rock the cap loose. If need be, lightly tap the op bolt from front to rear.
JACK:gap

 

[mvftw]

Bob, I did your job in the fall and just curious if your going to change the timing chain or maybe you already did. If not now is the time. The stock gear has nylon (plastic) teeth. I went with the Melling 55A & steel shaft & Cloyes True Roller Chain & one piece gasket...

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I keep wondering that as well. The time to have changed that was when I had the water pump off last year but we were getting ready for a party and I didn't have enough time.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Ordered the Melling pump, shaft and pickup today from Canton Racing Products of out of Connecticut. Canton will tack weld the pickup in place so it was easy.

Still have not had a chance to get under the car. Was out of town 5 days last week including the weekend. :cry

 

[76okievette]

Well I just started mine, got the oil pan off and the shield for the fly wheel, I will start on the pump and rear seal after golf tomorrow, also have a lot of oil to clean up but that should be easyy.
One question on the passanger side or the car behind the started is a unit, mine is gold color and has three rubber tubes go to it, is the fuel pump? It also looks like it has been dripping some fluid, how hard is it to change while I am down there.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Unsure with that is. It sounds like the fuel pump but that's on the front of the car on the block rather than behind the starter.

I decided not to mess with the main seal. There is no indication of a leak and I figure that all I can do is make it leak. If I have to do it later it's not too difficult to get to.

I also decided not to mess with the bearings at this point, either. Fluctuating oil pressure is a sign of a spun bearing. However this problem has been going on for a while, like 3 - 4,000 miles. The engine would not have gone this long if the bearing had spun.

I do appreciate everyones wisdom in trying to analysze the problem. Keep it simple. That's my motto.

I torqued the rear main cap to 75 foot pounds in 25 pound increments as the book says.

The one piece Felpro oil pan seal was ordered yesterday.

 

[curtis]

Bob, did you get the chance to check the oil pressure sender and the wire to it?

 

[Bob Chadwick]

New sending unit and plug and the gauge was rebuilt. Wire looks good, at least what you can see of it.

My brother made the suggestion that I buy a cheap gauge and ran it temporarily into the car and see if the two match up when there is a problem.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

New oil pump is in.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

That's a funky looking pickup tube. Is that custom?

 

[Bob Chadwick]

That's a funky looking pickup tube. Is that custom?

Yep. It's what they sell with their racing pans.

 

[Jack]

Next time .....

The one piece Felpro oil pan seal was ordered yesterday.

Fel-Pro P/N OS34510T is $35 + $9 "handling fee" at Summit ... it retails about $25 + sales tax (about $2) at local Autozone. 44-27=5qt oil&filter. If it's not in stock at your local parts store they can get it with their "regular" stock orders in a coupla days.
JACK:gap

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Now you tell me.

It's gotten to the point that I spend so much time trying to track these parts down that I just order them unless I know for sure where to get them.

 

[76okievette]

Well, I am well into this job also. I have the pan off the oil pump removed the real seal removed and all the new parts purchased. I went the Melling M55HV pump new steel shaft and new pick up all from Melling purchased at the local O'Reilles parts store. I hope to have it all back together this weekend. Trying to clean up the pan now so I can repaint it before it goes back on.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I'm hoping to get the thing back together tomorrow. I have to go get some modeling clay to measure the distance from the pickup to the pan.

What color are you going to paint it? I think mine is Chevy Blue under all the oil.

 

[Jack]

I have to go get some modeling clay to measure the distance from the pickup to the pan.

When you check for pickup clearance ... Don't forget to use a gasket like what's gonna be on it ... Or factor its thickness in.
JACK:gap