painting interior trim panels

[JL66REDCPE]

Barry -- for your own sanity -- try to look at a top flight car that did not receive deductions for interior trim. I am sure there has to be one in your local corvette club. I do not know how glossy your halo currently is. It may already be too glossy.

 

[BarryK]

you would be surprised John. The only one I know in my club that had a top-flight C2 he sold it and bought a famous '66 C2 racecar. Hmmmm, now that I think about it, this race car has a 95% stock interior so the halo and trim panels are probably still correct for me to look at.
Good idea John, I'll see if that owner will allow me to look at his car again. He is an NCRS judge anyway so he will be able to tell me if the panels on his car are still correctly finished.
In any case, from what you are saying, the Krylon semi-flat has a bit of a gloss to it anyway so it will most likely be acceptable for my purposes.
Remember, I'm not worried about having the car judged, just want it to look the best it can but while i'm going thru the effort I figure I might as well make it as close to the original correct appearance as I can within reasonable limits - short of taking the pieces to my painter and having him shoot it with lacquer like the factory did.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Tom,thanks for the info - very handy. The Prep-Sol is the same stuff John recommended to me to prep my motor block also and I didn't know where to get it. I'll try the local auto paint supplier. Probably where I got the paint for my cars paint job will have it I suppose.

Yes they will. Prep Sol is a DuPont brand name but all automotive paint manufacturers have the same stuff under their name. The DuPont product # is 3919S.

Tom

 

[Kid_Again]

BarryK

I wouldn't use acetone on fiberglass or plastic because it will either set into the matrix (to bleed off later and lift the paint) or melt the plastic.

All I can tell you is that fish eyes are a real problem with the interior trim parts. Just talk to VNV about the problems we had with his dash. I echo the comments that you need to get the silicone off before you rough up the surface. My experience is that unless you are a pro at shooting paint, the quality of your painted surface will not be what you expected. It will be different. Not good or bad, just different. That's because you're not starting with a virgin surface, surface prep is the most important step and rattle cans do not shoot a consistent pattern.

 

[BarryK]

Hi Kid

well, since you and Mark have so much experience from his car, come on up and help out..........
I'll try to find the prep-sol to use.
Since I have no intention of sending it out to my painter to get it professionally sprayed, i'll just have to do the best i can via spray can and live with it. If it's different it's different. As long as it's clean, fairly consistent looking within reason for a spray can, and overall acceptably decent appearance than i'm sure it will be good enough. My main issue with the pieces is that i want to paint is that they must have been redone previously and two of the three pieces are pretty glossy but one is a much flatter finish so it looks odd that they don't match plus they have a few scratches on them. i'm just looking to make them look even, consistent to each other, and generally look nicer overall.

 

[1KULC7]

Barry

Check this link out

EDIT http://new.goodspeedmotoring.com/?page=subcat&man_id=24

I am sorry its SEM Paint.....it give good explaination...

 

[BarryK]

Collin
sorry, it seems to be a bad link..........

 

[67HEAVEN]

Collin
sorry, it seems to be a bad link..........

Not any more.

 

[BarryK]

Collinn, thanks. good site. I can lots of things there I could use at some point or another.....

 

[Kid_Again]

SEM makes a good product. I use a VERY thin coat of their etching primer on the interior chrome pieces (console, cluster, glove box) before I paint them black (I use an airbrush with a mix of gloss and semigloss rust oleum). However, the SEM can I have sprays a LOT OF PAINT and is a bit of a challenge to control.

 

[JohnZ]

Krylon Semi-Flat #1613 is too flat for the pieces you want to paint (although it's fine for the main dash panel and lower windshield garnish molding); the upper areas and pieces above the belt line were originally shot with un-buffed lacquer, and SEM Trim Black #39143 is about as close as you're going to get to that appearance with a rattle-can.

 

[BarryK]

Thank you very much, as always, John! I knew in my heart a semi-flat just wasn't going to be glossy enough.
I put the #39143 on my shopping list

 

[1KULC7]

Barry,

John Z is correct, see I would never lead you in the wrong direction. I used the SEM Primer (Gray). Its pretty easy stuff to spray. The Gray primer fills in the very small scratches etc. Then I use the SEM Black Paint.... I personally have found this spray paint to go on very even. Trick is long sweeping motions about 8 inches from the article in THIN coats....do NOT put on thick coats it will run. I think youwill find it easy.

Like I stated in previous posts, I use old coat hangers. I cut them and make a hook at both ends then hank one end on the Rafters in the basement and hook the molding through one of the hole...it works great....

Good Luck...

 

[BarryK]

Collin

i never suspected you would

I won't get to the interior trim stuff until I am finished with the motor project but now I know what I need to order paint wise.