Please share a trick,tip,short cut to help restore or maintain our 53 to 67 vettes

[IH2LOSE]

Last week magic V8 had suggested in a post that he has an extra wire for his hood latch incase it breaks,So I am thinking to my self who else has these little tips or secrects we can share with each other.I will start off

1-I now paint all bare metal parts with diamond satin clear from east woods to avoid future rusting,It may not pass judging but at least we can drive our cars and not worry about it staying new looking.

2-When I am painting stuff I use tin foil to mask off wiring harness or oddley shaped componets

3-A digital camera is a tool I always have with me.I take pictures of everything before I start taking it apart.I use large labled freezer bags to put my parts in.Once I am done disassembling the area I will return to the freezer bags and clean or renew, refurbish, restore or replace the parts in the bags.As I replace any parts I still save the old parts I just put them in a new bag and label it take off parts and store them in the basement incase I ever need it.(most of you folks can skip this step JUST THROW IT OUT I cant)
I put a printed photo in the bag and or a copied page from the assembley manual.I used to use poloroids but with the digital camera it makes it a lot better you can print 8x10 pictures if you need to.All of this may seem like a lot of work but let me tell you it makes the putting it back together alot easeyer.My wife just recently purchased me a bunch of large plastic containers and gave me an area in the basement to put all of my baggies in.

I am sure I will think of some more
But please GIVE US YOUR TIPS

 

[TWINRAY]

When I don't drive the car for a while, like in winter, I pump the brake petal every so ofter to help the caliper seals.

I use anti seize whenever I replace most any bolt.

I plug up the exhaust pipes when car is in extended storage but use something that will blow out when you start it because you'll probably forget to take them out before starting - even rolled up "scott towels' will do.

Even with a "breathable" Noah car cover, don't leave it on indefinately (even for a couple/few months) because you'll have paint problems - I know, I did.

Who else

 

[Jack44]

Keep going to the bank for more money....

 

[66427-450]

Even with a "breathable" Noah car cover, don't leave it on indefinately (even for a couple/few months) because you'll have paint problems - I know, I did.

[/B]

interesting, what type of paint trouble? I've left them on for years, other than to take a look, wipe the chrome with a silicone rag and roll the engine over every couple months, and never had any paint issues? ( the cars were in garages of course)

 

[studiog]

I use a brake cylinder hone to clean out things like a slightly rusted engine damper hole so it will tap onto the crank without smashing the hell out of it and damaging your thrust bearing or the damper. (The keyway slot didn't bother the hone). But don't go too far, you still want a snug fit, just take enough off (a few thousandths) to get back to its original size... minus the rust build up. A little grease helps too. I wouldn't do this to a damper that isn't bolted on though.

I think this tips idea is great!

 

[67HEAVEN]

A quick cure for many "buggered" thread problems is this little ditty called a thread file...

I used it on a rear spindle with great success...

 

[atmmac]

if you have a dirty chrome bumper use WD40 to clean it. Its great! When changing spark plug wires label every one with tape for int he future when you have to pull out your distributor. To punch out the pin on the distributor gear use a hammer and a nail. last but not least when the brakes dont work DONT DRIVE THE CAR! (my impala found out!)

 

[Dave L.]

When I use my floor jack to raise my car, I place a very thick old rubber car mat between the jack pad and the frame so the frame doesn't get all chewed/dented.

The only other thing that comes to mind...
Purchase one of these if your going to do brake work on your car...
http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm
it makes bleeding your brake system incredibly easy.

Dave

 

[SebringBill]

OK, so here's a tidbit I did when I repainted my 57 about 10 years ago.

I went to my local U-Pull-It type of junkyard (Cophers around here) and searched the trunks of all full size GM cars of the late 70s - mid 80s for their temporary spare tires (you know, the "When I grow up I wanna be a Goodyear" skinny-pie-pan- radial-on-a-big-rim-already-inflated one). I happened to be looking for certain spares with 10 holes in the rim - both 4.75 inch and 5 inch bolt patterns as my 57 has 1954 Buick Skylark wire wheels with a 5 inch pattern. They were this size: T125/80D16 This tire is reasonably close in diameter but I'd still only use it on the front - that means if I had a rear flat I'd change a real tire to the rear and use this one on the front, assuring my posi unit of continued good functioning.

With some luck you can find some spares that have never been on the ground. I picked up 6 of them - 2 unused and 4 used for about $50. I replaced my wire wheels with the 4 used ones when the car went to the paint shop. The car looked like a low-rider!

One "NOS" spare resides in my trunk - and it fits with the tire board! (OK, for long trips I do put my 5th wire wheel in there...)

If anybody's interested I can send a pic or two of the spare.

(I originally posted this in another thread but it seems quite appropriate here...)

 

[66427-450]

in addition to the normal "prep for winter storage" stuff, I do the following for a little added protection.

to protect the interior chrome, i use a new/fresh, treated rag that is used to wipe down guns (to prevent rust). I wipe down all the chrome plated interior parts; window cranks, shifter, turn signal lever, chrome edges of gages, seatbelt hardware, radio knobs, etc.

for the exterior chrome, i put on a long rubber glove, then a cloth glove, i spray the cloth glove (not dripping wet, just well dampened) with wd-40 and wipe down the bumpers, mirror, door knobs, knock off spinners, everything that is not stainless.

 

[magicv8]

"Keep going to the bank for more money...."

I have read that wd40 is an acid, not a lubricant - great for electrical connections or rusted parts - but not what I put on my chrome. I use Meguires cleaner/polish on everything but the top and tires. It was rated least abrasive wax in a Consumers Report test 15 years ago - I started using it - and my paint is now 15 years old - and looks good (check my web site).

I also coat antisieze on all fasteners (as posted above).

Okay, tips: always torque wheel nuts in a (draw a 5 point) star pattern to prevent warping drums/rotors (I always use a torque wrench), always coat fuse ends and any spade lug connections with conducting lubricant (from electrical supply stores) to prevent corrosion and make removal easy, always put a clean terrycloth (towel) over a convertible plastic window, remove plastic scratches with Novus 2 Step, do not leave wheels hanging off the ground for weeks (harms rubber bushings - use max tire pressure or partially lift the body), and best of all..........

Keep the wheel side down when driving

 

[TWINRAY]

To 66/427-450
I had my '69 which I painted with plain ol' Acrylic Lacquer about 1978. It was garaged, uncovered from 1989 to last summer. No paint issues. Had to park it outside through last winter so it sat covered with NOAH from September to May. I had it uncovered and started it in December to change the oil and filter. The winter here stunk last year and there was quite a bit of snow. I took as much off the cover whenever I could and the temperature permitted melting. When I uncovered the car again in the spring, I noticed on the rear deck lid, blemishes - sort of fading of the paint. Through postings, I've heard that moisture is trapped under the cover regardless of car cover claims that they are breathable and the moisture gets trapped under the paint. When you uncover the car, the moisture tries to get released and it creates problems. The Noah car cover, while not completly waterproof, is quite waterproof. I've had my Nissan SE-R covered for about 4 years while I was not using it, through winters and all sorts of ****, and never had a problem. That cover was an Evolution 4 (or something) which isn't waterproof at all. When it rains, the cover gets soaked through. The Noah isn't like that. Maybe that's what the difference was. Keeping cars covered inside maybe a different story. But I would recommend to all that keep their cars covered for extended periods, that they uncover and let them B R E A T H E every so often.

 

[atmmac]

try the wd-40 you will be really surprised!

 

[Tripleblack51]

if you have a dirty chrome bumper use WD40 to clean it. Its great!

atmmac:

Great tip!

Have you also used it on the gauges in the car?

Pedro

 

[IH2LOSE]

Ok here one I just heard from an old vette guy.I mean this fellow is in his earley 80's and has been working on cars forever

So I was explaing to him how my pressure bleeder works for bleeding brakes on a vette.He then explained that the proper way to bleed the brakes on a car with a tilted master cylender is to put a level on the master cylender and raise the rear of the car until the master is level.then gravity bleed the master out of the first block you run into.Not all the way at the calipers but at the first block.he said that in the master there is a section that traps the air inside the master and the only way to get the bubble out is to get the master level and it just rises wright out of the fluid.once thats done the rest is easey. he went on to say that most folks think the bench bleeding does it but its actually because the cylender is level when it being bench bled and the buble comes out because its level.

Any one who knows me knows I HATE TO BLEED BRAKES I would rather work on my headlight assembleys,or replace my clutch

is this all thats neede to bleed our brakes correctley or is this an old wifes tale or urban legend. Historicly this fellows advice has always been 100% acurate

 

[67HEAVEN]

So I was explaing to him how my pressure bleeder works for bleeding brakes on a vette.He then explained that the proper way to bleed the brakes on a car with a tilted master cylender is to put a level on the master cylender and raise the rear of the car until the master is level.then gravity bleed the master out of the first block you run into.Not all the way at the calipers but at the first block.he said that in the master there is a section that traps the air inside the master and the only way to get the bubble out is to get the master level and it just rises wright out of the fluid.once thats done the rest is easey. he went on to say that most folks think the bench bleeding does it but its actually because the cylender is level when it being bench bled and the buble comes out because its level.

Now THIS is interesting. Can't wait to hear opinions.

 

[atmmac]

atmmac:

Great tip!

Have you also used it on the gauges in the car?

Pedro

I havent tried the guages ill give it a shot tommorow. thanks!

 

[magicv8]

more -

I use old junkyard plastic loom to protect my engine bay and tank/taillamp wire harnesses - so the wrap and the insulation don't harden as fast. The factory stuff you pull from old cars will take a lot more engine/exhaust heat than the new loom from an auto store.

I installed a third weatherstrip between the front bow convertible top bead and the factory weatherstrip. The seal will hold up to 80-85mph in the rain.

An 80s Pontiac GP quartz clock mechanism will fit in the c2 clock case and looks/sounds like the original. I had to buy a small die to cut threads on the adjustment shaft for the C2 clock knob.

A 1 amp fuse installed in the wires feeding the ammeter will save it from disaster if the starter or horn relay wiring burns.

It is easier to unbolt the clutch housing and remove it with the 4speed than to struggle with lowering the trans and the back of the engine without screwing up the heat insulator on the underside of the tunnel.

A GM roller pilot bearing will outlast brass bushings.

To tighten the hood hinges, drill out the rivet and install a bolt with a nylock nut. I made the hole oversize and inserted a couple of plastic accelerator rod bushings in the holes - with the bushing flanges between the hinge halves. When you remove all slack from the cross bolt (new hinge pin) - the nylon allows smooth operation. I can post a pic if requested.

You can lower the leading edge of a hood on a C2 with a sagging front end by doing the above mentioned hinge pin replacement with offset holes in the halves - so that the half bolted to the hood rides lower into the half bolted to the fender skirt. I used a round (rat tail) file to create the offset after drilling out the factory rivet.

more later..................

 

[pauk]

I have been using this gravity method to bleed brakes and changing the brake fluid for over 20 years. Simply jack up the car and put it on 4 jack stands, remove the wheels, put a container under all 4 bleeders and open all 4 bleeders, with the master cylinder lid removed, just keep adding brake fluid as it drips from all of the bleeders. When clean fluid is coming out of each wheel cylinder/caliper then close the bleeders, top off the master cylinder and your done. You don't have to do all 4 at a time, you can do one at a time, but doing all 4 together saves time.

 

[Tom Bryant]

moisture is the enemy of your restoration.

To touch on the car cover issue again, if you have to keep your car outside never park in on grass or bare soil and cover it. Moisture from the soil will collect under the cover and do all sorts of damage. Had a neighbor that stored a decent '66 Mustang convert in his back yard under a waterproof cover for 2 years. The car was basically ruined when he removed the cover. All fabric was rotted and covered with mold and mildue. Everything metal was rusty and the paint was coming off everywhere.

If you have a seperate garage for your shop or Corvette keep it closed up as much as possible. I don't open my shop doors unless I need to. I have a home dehumidifier that I leave on all summer. Nothing rusts or gets damp. Tools included. You can leave bare metal sit without it being orange the next day. My shop is well insulated and even in the summer it is alwys cooler inside than out without A/C. You can quite often buy a dehumidifier cheaper that a bunch of those moisture absorbing gizmos that you find in all of the Corvette catalogs.

In the winter keep your heat in the garage set around 55. It won't run that often but will run enough to keep the humidity out of the garage. Put a cheap humidity guage (like you will find in dept stores) on the wall to monitor things. These same moisture prevention techiques will help in a garage that you use daily too if you train yourself to only open the big door when you are actually driving in or out.

Spend $50. for a battery tender. Keeps your battery up without over charging and you don't have to remember to put the charger on once a month.

As for those origional clocks with points type winders I have read that a resistor in the power wire to the clock will prevent the points from arcing and they will last forever. I think it is a 1 ohm but not sure. I always unplugged my clocks unless going to a show but they claim on the NCRS board that this works. A search of the NCRS Tech Board Archive will reveal the answer.

Tom